Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That's a very nice Poulan 4400 bow saw. She's 69/70 cc's. Did you buy it new? It looks to be well taken care of. I have two bow saws right now, a Poulan 3400 and a 4000. Not as powerful as yours but close and on the smaller Countervibe chassis. You sure you want/need to sell it? You could put a straight bar on it and run it with the drive cover as is or replace it with one that doesn't have the slot cut in it. Very nice! Max.
 
Actually I was just wondering what it might be worth but at the same time I don't ever plan on using it. I bought it from a old guy that got it new. He didn't use it much before he went blind and couldn't get in the woods anymore. When he passed away one of his sons was cleaning out one of his sheds and pretty much sold everything the old man had. I bought an old Powerking tractor from him and while I was there I saw the saw and bought that too. I've had it for 10 years or more and only used it maybe twice just long enough to figure out that I wasn't man enough to put in a days work with that saw.

I already have enough in it to where I didn't need to put more into it, especially from what i have read here about it's worth. Every time I go into my wood shed and see it hanging on the wall I would say, I ought to sell that old saw while I'm still alive so my sons don't have to sell it when I'm gone. LOL
 
So, been working on my dads 2150 and for the life of me I can't keep a tune on it. I can get it started and let it idle for a couple minutes then I'll give it partial throttle until it's good and warm then I'll tune the idle until it starts to 4 stroke then I set idle screw. I do a rough setting on high needle then let it come back to idle and readjust if needed. I burp the throttle a couple times to make sure accel is good then I shut it off. Start it back up and it just won't idle for crap and often it bogs on throttle. Repeat the process and same results.
Saw has good compression, drops about 2psi over a minute or so and holds vacuum with no loss. Rebuilt carb twice with a good run thru UC both times. I replaced vents, filter and everything I can think of. I can tip the saw on both sides while idling and it'll stall out if I don't flip it back (happens on both sides) so I don't think seals are bad.
I looked at p&c thru exhaust and nothing stood out. I didn't use my bore scope though. Is it possible p&c are damaged and I can't see anything and causing my problem?
 
So, been working on my dads 2150 and for the life of me I can't keep a tune on it. I can get it started and let it idle for a couple minutes then I'll give it partial throttle until it's good and warm then I'll tune the idle until it starts to 4 stroke then I set idle screw. I do a rough setting on high needle then let it come back to idle and readjust if needed. I burp the throttle a couple times to make sure accel is good then I shut it off. Start it back up and it just won't idle for crap and often it bogs on throttle. Repeat the process and same results.
Saw has good compression, drops about 2psi over a minute or so and holds vacuum with no loss. Rebuilt carb twice with a good run thru UC both times. I replaced vents, filter and everything I can think of. I can tip the saw on both sides while idling and it'll stall out if I don't flip it back (happens on both sides) so I don't think seals are bad.
I looked at p&c thru exhaust and nothing stood out. I didn't use my bore scope though. Is it possible p&c are damaged and I can't see anything and causing my problem?
When you say rebuilt carb twice did that mean you replaced diaphragms? Also, did you check the metering height for the needle valve.
 
It sure does sound like an air leak to me. When you tip a saw and it changes the tune, that can mean crankseals.
would replace the crankseals and go over any area that can cause an air leak.
Yep, I was going to say that too as he said just the opposite....
 
When you say rebuilt carb twice did that mean you replaced diaphragms? Also, did you check the metering height for the needle valve.
I replaced all diaphragms and removed Welch plugs on 2nd cleaning as I didn't have them at 1st rebuild. The 1st gasket kit I used was a Chinese kit,so I bought a genuine kit the 2nd time. I always set/check metering valve on every carb.
 
It sure does sound like an air leak to me. When you tip a saw and it changes the tune, that can mean crankseals.
would replace the crankseals and go over any area that can cause an air leak.
In my experience when the tune changes when you tip the saw they always tach up because of extra air being pulled in. I'm not saying that that is the rule just my experience. Last few saws I've done with bad seals (boys 4018 is latest) it wouldn't even start. Now those seals were really bad so not a real good example.
My echo doesn't hold pressure a lot better then that and it runs like a clock. I guess I'll just order a set of seals and cross that off troubleshooting list.
 
here is a couple pics of the saw.
Nice Poulan, grew up with bow saws in Louisiana in the 70's. Great for firewood and pulp wood cutting. I have a nice 361 to rebuild "someday", with a bow. I have two old 3400s one I am looking to convert to bow if i could find one..

Scott
 
Back
Top