Olympyk, Olympic, Oleo Mac, Emak, Efco, Blitz, Folux, Spartan, Spartacus thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I assume you got yourself a new one,or is that the pic I asked you to post 2 months ago?If that's the coil that came off your saw,then that's the way it should look,if I remember correctly.I looked at the one I sent you a link to & I see what you were talking about,but you could've pressed out the core on both coils & interchanged them.I see the listing for the one on Ebay is long gone now.Here's the email address I found to Efco in Mn.













Ross Hershman

Service Manager

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw







Thank You,
Edward Stabell










Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw


























Parts are available through authorized efco dealers. To find your closest dealer click on the following link and use the Dealer Locator.

http://www.efcopower.com/where-to-buy



If you need further assistance please let me know.



Thank you,



Ross Hershman

Service Manager

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw








From: Andrew Montan
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 8:48 AM
To: Ross Hershman <[email protected]>














 
I assume you got yourself a new one,or is that the pic I asked you to post 2 months ago?If that's the coil that came off your saw,then that's the way it should look,if I remember correctly.I looked at the one I sent you a link to & I see what you were talking about,but you could've pressed out the core on both coils & interchanged them.I see the listing for the one on Ebay is long gone now.Here's the email address I found to Efco in Mn.














Ross Hershman

Service Manager

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw







Thank You,
Edward Stabell










Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw


























Parts are available through authorized efco dealers. To find your closest dealer click on the following link and use the Dealer Locator.

http://www.efcopower.com/where-to-buy



If you need further assistance please let me know.



Thank you,



Ross Hershman

Service Manager

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 320-243-8500 ext. 352

Toll Free: 800-800-4420

Fax: 320-243-8030

Web: www.efcopower.com



raw








From: Andrew Montan
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 8:48 AM
To: Ross Hershman <[email protected]>












Yeah that is a coil I got off eBay but is exactly like all the coils from all 10 or 12 of my other olys. Also that is the pic you asked me to post so long ago.
 
I got my 234 fired up for the first time in almost 2 yrs.,then it just died abruptly,no spark.I figure the electronic ignition module went bad.Anyone know how to get that damned 234 apart?And then where to get another module?
 
I got the saw apart,I had to take half the saw apart just to get the damn recoil off.Yup,the module is definitely dead.I also found a new module for $49 + $10 shipping.I sure hope the little bugger is worth it.
 
Hi all, long time lurker (and wisdom sponge, mostly re: chainsaws and climbing, thanks!), first time poster. I don't ask many questions, but present my findings with a tone of authority that can be cheerfully disregarded: I'm clearly no expert. If you feel like offering advice please do so, happy to hear input. Otherwise, here is my Oly story.
Been looking for a saw to dismantle and possibly mill some bits off a very nice stringybark that used to dominate our front yard and sadly dominated my neighbour's car during a storm a few weeks ago. Realised it'd be torture/unsafe with my much appreciated Husqvarna 350 ($200 off gumtree with a case and another chain! mad deal for a serviced runner round here, still see them/340/5s for 4-600 but I digress). Got stuffed around by an eBay seller up north on a 284F (Hi Dave! No hard feelings and hope she's running well...), missed out on not one but 3 076es that week and ultimately stretched my budget a fair bit, but in the *meantime* this popped up last week for a hundred bucks:

DSC_0024.JPG
So I took the punt and drove a few hours round trip to get it.
"I reckon you'll change a fuel line and get it running, but then you'll have to deal with the real problem. I think it's low compression, but basically when you go to cut anything bigger than a few inches it bogs right down, certainly not running like a 60cc saw from Oleo Mac when they were top of their game should"
Apparently he took it to the mower shop and "they couldn't get it going" and he just needed it gone.
DSC_0032.JPG
Chain was quite tight.
Rakers don't look touched.
Checked compression. (probably wrong way)
DSC_0028.JPGDSC_0031.JPGDSC_0062.JPGDSC_0072.JPGPulled about half a kilo of sawdust and, i swear to god, soil out of the flywheel cover, clutch cover and general 'end that points at tree'.
'86 stamp on inside of clutch cover? I thought these came out in '88? Is Mike Acres... wrong? Doubt the clutch cover casting is unique to this model though!
DSC_0066.JPGWondered why it seemed I could turn the engine with the sprocket drum sometimes (also: rim sprocket upgrade - sweet!)...
DSC_0088.JPGDSC_0089.JPGO. I C.
WTF? Is that a split pin jammed in a hole under the muffler??
Apparently it's there to "turn to clear the oil tank breather hole". As in, by design. Il tuo vo fa la'Italiano... :)
The more I pulled it apart the more I became convinced I could fix it.
Endoscopy through the plug hole...
2020-08-25-23-20-55.png
 
2020-08-25-23-21-12.png
I assume this is pretty normal (almost mirror polish on the cylinder, doesn't come across well on, ahem, 'endophotos') and I take the staining on the piston as just surface tarnish/a pretty confirmation that the Italians can sure design a combustion chamber flame path old Dr. Schnuerle would approve of.
Checked AS, checked compression again.
DSC_0085.JPG
Looked at rings through exhaust port, look fine. Piston ditto.
Reckon it'll run.
Reassembled ignition module, plug in lead held on cylinder, no spark.
Checked plug, resistor plug, no obvious defect. Replaced with new (also resistor), no spark.
Checked AS, checked coil. 2.234kOhm secondary, 153Ohm primary. A little low, but in the ballpark. No short.
2V on primary while pulling reps. Barely 1V secondary. Boo.
So module busted (old caps? blown tranny? who knows). Quickly discovered low to zero chance of finding good replacement module. Boo.

It gets good now.

Took inspiration from earlier in this thread where Ed suggested Jerry could rehome a 2-pole Selettra coil onto a 3 pole core like mine. Had some doubts about trigger circuit compatibility and timing with that specific solution.
Discovered Selettra make a current 3-pole magneto ignition module that's conceptually very similar, the I27A, for karts. Italianly expensive though (liek, 400 bucks omigod).
Discovered eBay is awash with chinese knockoffs of said module (search "ignition coil pit bike" or so). Can't find dimensions of the 'real' I27A, but the 264 has 67mm between bolt holes, and the coil itsself is 45mm across (and easily removed by snapping the retaining clip off the secondary blister and applying elbow grease and a light drifting).
For $12 I decided to take the further punt and ordered a "52mm IGNITION COIL 33CC 36CC 39CC 52cc Chopper Mini moto GAS Scooter GoKart Bike", not even from China but from one of the local container distributors for because impatience.
It arrived yesterday. Secondary resistance: 9.75kOhm. Primary resistance: futile. Well I might as well try...
DSC_0775.JPGHad to cut the edges off the resin/plastic where it was potted to the laminates.
Had to use substantially more drifting to remove it.
DSC_0776.JPGComparison.
DSC_0777.JPGOh the miracle of zipties (note flywheel clearance is yes).
DSC_0780.JPGGot out my remove-plugs-from-the-possible-unknowns. Although this tool looks custom made specifically for checking for spark on an SAE-compatible ignition without risk of electric shock, it is actually 3 things I found in my dad's Orange Tub of Spare Things when I was 5 or 6 years old and pliersed together (p.s. I'm 40). Worked though.
DSC_0781.JPGWeak little sparklets they were, but they were there.
Reckon it'll run.
Now to glue the new coil to the laminates...
DSC_0778.JPG
 
Hey,I hope this works out for you.The old saying is:"it ain't over till it's over".Something else I've found is sometimes these old ignition modules get moisture in them & renders them useless,or "dead".The solution - bake them in a 200F oven for 2 hrs.(you'll have to do the conversion from Fahrenheit to Celsius) Two yrs.ago I had two of these ignition modules that were dead showing no spark.I baked them in the oven as mentioned above & both of them were brought back to life.One of the modules had multiple cracks in the outer casing which most likely was the cause of the moisture getting in.After the module was tested & proved to throw spark again,I gave it 2 coatings of marine varnish.I just took the saw out about 6 weeks ago to see if it'd start.Even with 2 yr.old fuel in it it still fired up.The saw is a 254,almost identical to the 264.
 
Back
Top