unknwn
ArboristSite Member
Instead of adding yet -another- fixture to my shop's (always) limited set-up/bench/storage area s it seemed second nature to put one of the smallest industrial arbor press to use, just buying the best of available tooling (punch(s) & base arbor).
Investigating available tooling leads me towards the genuine Oregon parts, in hope that their "Made in North America" qualifies those items as sterner stuff, than the "copied by everyone" versions originating across the West pond.
The base arbor (Oregon #111939) is certainly the most elaborate (and expensive) block, and I saw a copied version now being included with those -color of the week- welded-up consumer grade breaker. Since it has the irregular shaped slots (-some- of them are sort of shaped like a chain's cutter) it seems like it MIGHT qualify for some measure of instruction to use it to it's full intent. I even came across a cry-baby review that mentioned the OP's ability to wreck a chain using it (?).
Is that block any more prone to breakage than say, a more-or-less flat one with variable groove widths ?
As far as punch s are concerned, the copied-by-everyone (Oregon 38594) version varies in price from $5 per-up to-maybe $10-$11 for the genuine product (and I'm referring to the smaller 1/4-to-?? one). I made an inquiry to a supply house specializing in chainsaw stuff in my state (Ohio), and their come-back explanation was that it was a consumer-use -always copied- tooling punch. The alternative, @ never less than about $16 was the Oregon 26870 which that supplier referred to as a "Professional" version, which has a distinctly different profile, isn't copied by ANYONE, and from some of the more advanced aspects (filleted 90s and MUCH different pressure points) -looks- like it may actually be longer lived. Another thing I noticed about it was that it does ALL pitch sizes, instead of being expected to have two punch s to deal with all normally utilized sizes (1/4 - .325 and then 3/8 & .404).
The 38594 style can be sources as a Stens product for as little as $5 ea.. and they tout a one year warranty against breakage (Yeah, try and get -that- honored -Hah!), and modifying the ram of my arbor press might require a square bottomed hole of specific depth? to best incorporate it (?). And I'm wondering what's the reason of the tapered groove in it's cylindrical area.
The more expensive "professional" 26870 (mentioned to me as used in "cast" version of the Oregon breakers) Looks to me, to place the force much closer to the point, wouldn't require a hole with a square bottom, or with a overly specific depth, other than, being -deep- enough so that the force is exerted on the collar -near the point-, instead of the blunt end in the depths of the well it fits into.
I'm going to add some pictures of these items, hoping that they are OK, and don't/won't lead to trouble for posting the images (??).
Thoughts, personal experiences, anything at all is what I'm looking for before I spend on these hardened metal tooling items
Investigating available tooling leads me towards the genuine Oregon parts, in hope that their "Made in North America" qualifies those items as sterner stuff, than the "copied by everyone" versions originating across the West pond.
The base arbor (Oregon #111939) is certainly the most elaborate (and expensive) block, and I saw a copied version now being included with those -color of the week- welded-up consumer grade breaker. Since it has the irregular shaped slots (-some- of them are sort of shaped like a chain's cutter) it seems like it MIGHT qualify for some measure of instruction to use it to it's full intent. I even came across a cry-baby review that mentioned the OP's ability to wreck a chain using it (?).
Is that block any more prone to breakage than say, a more-or-less flat one with variable groove widths ?
As far as punch s are concerned, the copied-by-everyone (Oregon 38594) version varies in price from $5 per-up to-maybe $10-$11 for the genuine product (and I'm referring to the smaller 1/4-to-?? one). I made an inquiry to a supply house specializing in chainsaw stuff in my state (Ohio), and their come-back explanation was that it was a consumer-use -always copied- tooling punch. The alternative, @ never less than about $16 was the Oregon 26870 which that supplier referred to as a "Professional" version, which has a distinctly different profile, isn't copied by ANYONE, and from some of the more advanced aspects (filleted 90s and MUCH different pressure points) -looks- like it may actually be longer lived. Another thing I noticed about it was that it does ALL pitch sizes, instead of being expected to have two punch s to deal with all normally utilized sizes (1/4 - .325 and then 3/8 & .404).
The 38594 style can be sources as a Stens product for as little as $5 ea.. and they tout a one year warranty against breakage (Yeah, try and get -that- honored -Hah!), and modifying the ram of my arbor press might require a square bottomed hole of specific depth? to best incorporate it (?). And I'm wondering what's the reason of the tapered groove in it's cylindrical area.
The more expensive "professional" 26870 (mentioned to me as used in "cast" version of the Oregon breakers) Looks to me, to place the force much closer to the point, wouldn't require a hole with a square bottom, or with a overly specific depth, other than, being -deep- enough so that the force is exerted on the collar -near the point-, instead of the blunt end in the depths of the well it fits into.
I'm going to add some pictures of these items, hoping that they are OK, and don't/won't lead to trouble for posting the images (??).
Thoughts, personal experiences, anything at all is what I'm looking for before I spend on these hardened metal tooling items
