sweet. thanks to you and rocketnorton for replying.
P41
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j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
I have used a hot glue gun with success, but for fuel tank repairs on trimmers, I have hit on using crazy clue and baking soda. First, rough up the surface by sanding. Clean, with alcohol. Place crazy glue in the crack and then dust on some baking soda. Repeat, until you built up the area enough to seal the break or crack. I have also used this repair on a split seam on a Shindaiwa chainsaw tank.
This makes a strong, durable, repair, and can be sanded and finished as required.
Good home fix. In the fiberglass repair business, we prefer to use plastic microspheres for a filler but lots of things will work, many use flour.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
I have read that carbon powder also works really well, but it cures really rapidly. When nothing else would work, I have made some crazy repairs with crazy glue and powder. One of my buddies owned a commercial sign business for 40 years, and I learned a lot about using the glue from him.
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
Allison or Merlin?
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
that would be P51 Mustang, not P41 chainsaw.
j-jock
ArboristSite Operative
It is a Curtis P-40 Warhawk, or in the British version, the Kittyhawk. A first generation WWII aircraft powered by the anemic Allison 1040 hp engine.
It was a good aircraft, particularly in the early part of the war, but because of the lack of power, it was outclassed by the (BF) ME-109, and the Fock Wolfe 190, Japanese Zero, and made obsolete by the P-38, P-47, P-51, Corsair, and the F6F Gruman Hellcat.
It was used in most theaters in the ground attack configuration.
Beautiful saw Frank.
Mark
Mark
got my carb kit this afternoon. of course, I forgot to get a new carb gasket.
the tiny screen under the small welch plug was toast. anyone know if this carb has a rubber check valve in one of those tiny passages? I looked at a Tillotson HS exploded view and didn't see one. would like to soak this in berryman's chemdip.
I don't see any check valve in the parts diagram.
Mark
Mark
I looked at that too so I guess it's a go 
had some grey gasket mat'l the same thickness so made one up a few minutes ago.
The tiny screen act as a sort of check valve, relies on the surface tension of the fuel to seal it at idle. Some installations have a rubber disc under the screen to give better sealing at idle. Depending on the saw, the screen and disc can often be eliminated and the idle mix can be adjusted to compensate for any air bleeding back into the low speed circuit at idle.
Walbro/McCulloch did that on some of the early versions of the "flat back" carburetors with a fine mesh metal screen. They later offered a kit to replace the screen with a nylon check ball and seat...
Mark
Mark
the screen is held in place by a tiny split ring. here is the new one installed.
I rebuilt the carb this am, and the saw is still doing the same thing. won't fire unless I dribble in a little premix. fires and dies. not getting fuel. dumped the fuel (had put in fresh mix at the seller's house) and there is a bunch of sticky crap in the bottom of the tank. looks like mix was left to dry out repeatedly. the fuel line is stuck in the layer of gunk and is crumbling apart when I try to get it out with a pickup tool. assume removing this nut will let me pull out the old fuel line? I need to get on the beg for thread and get an IPL and service manual.
nice to see a USA made carb.
hopefully it's not this fancy ignition.
got a little over 165 psi cold.
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