Pennzoil 2 cycle oil

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Last year I happened to snag a deal at Wally World on Pennzoil 2 cycle outboard mix oil, on clearance so I got 4 gallons for $20. Weird part is the next week it was back on the shelf for $15 a gallon. Anyway, I’ve used this in my 15 year old 20 hp Evinrude with no problems. Tell me why this wouldn’t be any good in a saw. Rpm the major factor? Thanks. And no, I WILL NOT bring up mix ratio! :crazy2:
 
It will be fine to use for saw or what ever.
I used up a bunch of mercury outboarf oil in my weedeater last summer and a bit in the saws in the fall.
It probly just has a few extra additives.

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Outboard oil is all I've ever used in my saws.. But I mix mine very rich cuz sometimes I'm running an older MAC 16-1, or 24-1) or a Homey at 32-1_ an my limber is a Stihl at 50-1, or my other limber a Homey XL, AT 40-1. I foul a plug every once in awhile, but never lost a motor.. I like em with a little smoke going on. Tells me it's well lubricated.. And I still pack around 1 gas can
 
As in Post#5 oil most suitable for liquid cooled motors is not the best for air cooled you would probably be O K for the odd tank full & possibly OK for a half dozen or so tank fulls but a fail & warrantey claim would likely be turned down as the maker employs their "wriggle" clause to not have to cover it there are lots of oil more suitable at similar or cheaper prices & for a piece of kit costing up to a $1000 is it worth scrimping to save 10cents on oil which is the lifeblood of the kit in question I know I'd plump for the quality lub & a thicker fuel oil mix ratio But as oil threads tend to raise hackles to each his own.
 
Watwr and air cooled 2 strokes are diff and require diff. Oils i wouldnt nor dont do it and stay away from penzoil every boat guy including myself hates that cheap crap i know of. I lost a motor due to it that oul burns dirty and fouls more plugs and its lubricating properties suck
 
Outboard oils burn dirtier and produce ash when run in hotter running air cooled engines, its all in the design of the oils, outboards run cooler. That said I know of more saws run on outboard oils in my area due to being right in the Land of lakes plus living on the seacoast there are more outboards than chainsaws. Most prefer to run outboard injection oil mixed 40:1. Most saws outlast their users here, more old iron sitting mouldering away with their owners now long gone .
 
Pennzoil 2 cycle outboard mix oil, .......Tell me why this wouldn’t be any good in a saw. Rpm the major factor? Thanks.

I can tell you I bought a small bottle of Penzoil two cycle pre mix oil at an auto parts place that has writing on the side that states it is intended for small air cooled engines like chainsaws. Actually says chainsaw on the bottle. Why it would not be any good is open to interpretation. Often times there are two kinds of two cycle oil, like Sunoco branded oil at a Sunoco station one is specifically for outboard and one it would appear for outboard and everything else. Ever noticed what I am referring to here?
 
I used to run that cheap outboard oil from Wal-Mart then I found out that it's for liquid cooled engines so I stopped doing that. I never had any issue with it and I used to run it in a 70s artic cat I had too. But I would make sure it says on the bottle "for air cooled engines".
 
I bought a small bottle of Penzoil two cycle pre mix oil at an auto parts place that has writing on the side that states it is intended for small air cooled engines like chainsaws.

The Walmart brand TCW3 boat oil says similar, lawnmowers, chainsaws.... BUT then says if it matches the MFG oil requirements, yada-yada-yada, blah-blah-blah.. Kind of reminds me of the Amsoil double talk.
 
Wal-Mart is pretty good at copying everything. They sell the real thing and their line too. My Ozark hatchet looks almost the same as the fiskars and even splits like one. It's been holding up well too.
 
I asked this question to some "gurus" back when I was riding and working on dirtbikes. Having always cut wood and mixed gas for chainsaws, I wanted to know the need for different mixing ratios, oil types, etc., etc. I was told with in-depth explanation that it is all about viscosity and cooling. Air cooled engines that rev to 13K+ need a thermally stable oil that doesn't lose its viscosity when too hot. Cooler ambient temperatures help to control the heat stress that air cooled engines subject the oil and its parts to, so the users may never experience trouble.

Bearings that are straight gassed typically show signs of heat damage (if the piston and cylinder stays together long enough), so lack of lubrication caused by the oil's viscosity changes can certainly have an impact on bearing over-temps and failures. Because liquid cooled engines run much cooler, many can handle mixing ratios of 100:1. Suzuki outboards come to mind, as they are 100:1 mixers. Long story short, air cooled 2-stroke oil is designed to have a more stable level of viscosity even at higher temps than liquid cooled 2-stroke oil. That's pretty much how it was explained to me.

Technically speaking, it isn't advisable, especially in hot climate areas and during hot seasons. Would I, or have I ever ran it? Yep, but not continuous, or even for extended periods. I do it when there's nothing else and I have to get my job done.

:cheers:
 
The TCW certification NMMA has as a criteria regarding toxicity to aquatic animals, these oils use an Ashless detergent-dispersant (boron-phosphorous compounds). Ashless means no metallic ash is produced (magnesium sulfonates, calcium sulfonates, antimony). As these sulfonates are also excellent corrosion inhibitors, the TCW oils use a different corrosion inhibitor that is less toxic to aquatics. This is the main difference in the TCW oils from air-cooled oils which use the 'low'-ash detergent-dispersant (metallic sulfonates or antimony).

As the additives have improved so has the 'base' oil , so now it is possible to have the advantages of the ashless detergent (no deposits, less toxic), along with an ester base oil for high film strength. Echo Red Armor and Stihl Ultra are this type of oil.
Lubegard also has ashless oils that have high performance base oil.


http://lubegard.com/~/C-238/LUBEGARD+Power+Equipment+Care+2+Cycle+Oil+&+Re-Conditioner+
Some information on ester base oil
http://lubegard.com/LXE.aspx
 
I’ve used pennzoil 2 cycle specifically for air cooled engines without issue. That said, a fellow poster in a different forum has in his signature “Any oil is better than none at all” or maybe his says “any grease” ... either way, if you take care of your equipment and it seems to work for you, I don’t see why not. As another post alluded to - there was a time when 30 weight plus your leaded gasoline was all you needed. :)
 
I’ve used pennzoil 2 cycle specifically for air cooled engines without issue. That said, a fellow poster in a different forum has in his signature “Any oil is better than none at all” or maybe his says “any grease” ... either way, if you take care of your equipment and it seems to work for you, I don’t see why not. As another post alluded to - there was a time when 30 weight plus your leaded gasoline was all you needed. :)
You said key word there leaded gas wich is a lubricant my dad used to run leaded gas and 30 weight in outbords and air cooled 2 strokes i run 100 octane av gas low lead at 40 to 1
 

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