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Picked up a Stihl 036 pro - need some help...

jpcjguy

jpcjguy

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Hi all,

So I picked up a 036 Pro for $50. It sat for a while the guy said. I put some fresh gas in it and got it started! Yeah!
Attached is the pics of the saw.
Then I took the bar off to clean it some and then started poking around.
Not sure how many pics can be attached so I will continue in a reply.....
 

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  • Stihl 036 bar side.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 side.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 back.jpg
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jpcjguy

jpcjguy

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Right off the bat the washer and e-clip were missing....
Then i saw one of the springs was broken in the clutch.
The needle bearing looked...uhhhhh...interesting.....
And the inside was filthy. Can I spray the inside down with carb cleaner or something else?

So looking at a parts diagram I found: https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/036-pro/256b441f-dd71-401d-a061/
It appears there are different sizes/versions - how do I know what to get?

Thanks!
 

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  • Stihl 036 rim sprocket.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 clutch.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 clutch cover.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 needle.jpg
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  • Stihl 036 inside.jpg
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LogSawyer74

LogSawyer74

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My biggest concern would be the place on the crank where the clutch bearing runs. Is it grooved pretty deep from running with a grenaded bearing? Probably best way to check would be put on a new clutch bearing and see how bad the drum rocks on the bearing/crank.
 
Bob Hedgecutter

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Looks like you picked up a good $50 saw.
Looks like the front handle, recoil cover and cylinder cover might have been replaced- so it may have been in an accident at some stage- the air box cover deemed good enough to stay should be replaced or at least have the giant hole in the corner patched up.
For your investment so far, which is not a whole lot- think about replacing the clutch assembly with a new Stihl one- will last another decade or two,
Strip it down, clean it up (carb cleaner can eat things, so maybe just gasoline and compressed air?) and check what else needs replaced or repaired.
Personally I would be replacing all rubber ware like fuel and oil lines etc- checking for leaking main oil seals and main bearing wear at a minimum.
 
BuckthornBonnie

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Tough to say from the pics. Sometimes the clutch spider can break. On high-use saws the springs can wallow out their holes and cause issues.
I’d remove that clutch and closely inspect everything. Replace the springs with OEM. Check that oil line for breaks and grab that crank and wiggle it. Any movement?
 
BuckthornBonnie

BuckthornBonnie

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The air filter cover is available used and aftermarket. The AM plastics for this series are ok. They do not come with the carb screw grommet so don’t lose it. They’re ms360 copies and I’ve used a half dozen or so.
 
jpcjguy

jpcjguy

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I will check the crank and inspect the clutch. I read about the bearing upgrade kit - 1125-007-1041. Figure I might as well do that if I get a bearing anyway....
 
Mad Professor

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Scrape the thick grime. Then use some diesel fuel and a parts brush and toothbrush to scrub it. Finish up with dish detergent.

Good advice so far. Do pull the clutch and inspect oil pump and line. Would be a good time to do a pres/vac test and/or replace seals (oil pump off). Gasket kit comes with seals and is cheaper than seals.
 
jpcjguy

jpcjguy

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So did some simple green, toothbrush and q-tips. So it looks like some grooves in the oil pump and line - but nothing leaking at this point.
So is that wire bent down? I tried taking a side shot to show if it has any curve to it. Or was the broken spring allowing the edge of the clutch to grind away at the oil line and pump?
The crank is tight and does not look too bad. measured it with digital micrometer and thinnest reading was 9.95mm at one spot.
 

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  • Stihl 036 oil pump groove.jpg
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J D

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Looks like the end of the pump drive has worn off, I would suspect that, & the grinding on the other parts pictured was a result of the clutch drum wobbling excessively on the trashed bearing
 
Bob Hedgecutter

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So did some simple green, toothbrush and q-tips. So it looks like some grooves in the oil pump and line - but nothing leaking at this point.
So is that wire bent down? I tried taking a side shot to show if it has any curve to it. Or was the broken spring allowing the edge of the clutch to grind away at the oil line and pump?
The crank is tight and does not look too bad. measured it with digital micrometer and thinnest reading was 9.95mm at one spot.

All depends on what you personally want from the saw. A $50 saw is a $50 saw for a reason- VERY seldom will you luck out and get a good condition, not needing fairly major repairs for $50.
If you just want it to run, fix what you have found obviously trashed and get on with it.
If you want a 60cc class saw that will run for another few decades without problems, tear it down and replace the wear items- I would go as far as new main bearings and oil seals while I was in there, but maybe splitting cases is a bit beyond where you want to go.
Your saw, so your choice- but you can probably bet the clutch shoe holes where the springs fit are getting oval and flogged out (as mentioned above) and the clutch bell will be wallowed where the snafued bearing was sitting- that is why I suggested new OEM clutch component replacement and the new clutch will be good for the next couple of decades of the saws use.
For what it is worth- I would also be renewing the oil line and oil pump that are chewed up. Those 036 oil lines can be fun to replace- but they do not require NASA training to fit either- just don't loose the wee brass tube fitting at the open end of the old line and put it back in the new one.
 
Mad Professor

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All depends on what you personally want from the saw. A $50 saw is a $50 saw for a reason- VERY seldom will you luck out and get a good condition, not needing fairly major repairs for $50.
If you just want it to run, fix what you have found obviously trashed and get on with it.
If you want a 60cc class saw that will run for another few decades without problems, tear it down and replace the wear items- I would go as far as new main bearings and oil seals while I was in there, but maybe splitting cases is a bit beyond where you want to go.
Your saw, so your choice- but you can probably bet the clutch shoe holes where the springs fit are getting oval and flogged out (as mentioned above) and the clutch bell will be wallowed where the snafued bearing was sitting- that is why I suggested new OEM clutch component replacement and the new clutch will be good for the next couple of decades of the saws use.
For what it is worth- I would also be renewing the oil line and oil pump that are chewed up. Those 036 oil lines can be fun to replace- but they do not require NASA training to fit either- just don't loose the wee brass tube fitting at the open end of the old line and put it back in the new one.
And don't forget the spring inside the hose.
 
rwoods

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I have a decent used OEM air filter cover that I will gift forward to you if you want it. Just send me a PM with your address.

I believe there was a clutch upgrade for the early 036Pro. Hopefully, someone who knows the ends and outs of that will post. If not, you should be able to do a search for the information in case it is applicable here.
Ron

PS Great saw. One of my favorites with many years of trouble free use.
 
Mad Professor

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I have a decent used OEM air filter cover that I will gift forward to you if you want it. Just send me a PM with your address.

I believe there was a clutch upgrade for the early 036Pro. Hopefully, someone who knows the ends and outs of that will post. If not, you should be able to do a search for the information in case it is applicable here.
Ron

PS Great saw. One of my favorites with many years of trouble free use.
clutchg upgrade sm.jpg
 
jpcjguy

jpcjguy

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Thanks for all the advice everyone. I am going to do the clutch upgrade first and replace the springs. Then run it to ensure everything is working fine before I order the rest of the parts
RWoods - thank you for the extremely generous offer - PM will be sent!
 
Vintage Engine Repairs

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Looks like you’ve got lots of excellent advice above and a generous offer of a cover. Not much more to add.

The 034 super (essentially the same saw as yours) is one of my favourite saws - so nice to work on and will pull a 20” bar full comp chain buried in very hard dry aussi wood no problem. You’ll love yours AA078D80-DE4B-41FD-94D7-D6FF081C7EDD.jpeg
 
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