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Pioneer chainsaws

Beavers

Beavers

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Sep 12, 2012
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579
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Canada
Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.
 

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pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

Lost in Space
Staff member
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
41,324
Location
N.S. Canada
Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.
Very-very nice job !
 
Jasonrkba

Jasonrkba

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Joined
Jul 25, 2015
Messages
1,767
Location
Stokesdale NC.
I picked up a p28 and the L setting doesn't line up great with the hole in the housing. Is this common or do I need to dig deeper? i haven't had time to look at it much but this is something I noticed.

Thanks. Jason.
 
xl130

xl130

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
164
Location
Ontario
Was wondering if the plug over the hi jet on a SDC53B is a normal Welch plug or a fixed nozzle. Looks like someone started to drill this one then stopped…..

4C9B1A88-8228-4F7E-AC50-9A029DC75BB2.jpeg
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
6,566
Location
Southern Ontario
Was wondering if the plug over the hi jet on a SDC53B is a normal Welch plug or a fixed nozzle. Looks like someone started to drill this one then stopped…..

View attachment 915718
It is a welch plug and someone did drill it. Not sure why. The main nozzle and check valve is under that plug.

At least you get to look at the check valve to make sure it hasn't turned to goo.
 
xl130

xl130

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Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
164
Location
Ontario
It is a welch plug and someone did drill it. Not sure why. The main nozzle and check valve is under that plug.

At least you get to look at the check valve to make sure it hasn't turned to goo.
Thanks! Looks like whoever did that plug had a few drinks first. Looks a little beat up around the sealing lip.

I think I recall reading somewhere that you can cut new check valves with gasket material. Any idea how think that check valve is?
 

89HD

OLD SAW
Joined
Mar 11, 2019
Messages
343
Location
Kamloops
Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.
Great job on restoring that saw.
 
Hoggwood

Hoggwood

Dumpster saw enthusiast
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
981
Location
Okanagan, BC
Yup. Gonna need a check valve. The flap is gone. Probably why I couldn’t get it to run. View attachment 915723
Brass seat looks a bit hammered. Hopefully it will accept the screen and circlip. FWIW, here is a link to a post of mine that outlines my redneck technique for retrofitting those checks. I don’t initially remove the brass assembly, but it can be pulled carefully using an appropriate machine screw. If the check pocket is full of funk and just won’t seal after a rigorous cleaning and retrofit, then pull it. But, I’d rather not pull the brass assembly if it is not needed.

 
xl130

xl130

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Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
164
Location
Ontario
Brass seat looks a bit hammered. Hopefully it will accept the screen and circlip. FWIW, here is a link to a post of mine that outlines my redneck technique for retrofitting those checks. I don’t initially remove the brass assembly, but it can be pulled carefully using an appropriate machine screw. If the check pocket is full of funk and just won’t seal after a rigorous cleaning and retrofit, then pull it. But, I’d rather not pull the brass assembly if it is not needed.

Ah that’s where I saw it! You’d think I would’ve remembered better seeing as I commented on it
Thanks!
 
hillwilliam

hillwilliam

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
431
Location
Colorado
SDC 80 woes: Maybe I should post this in the general chainsaw section as well.

I've always run SDC 80 carbs in my P-series saw, even my P42. I love 'em. I've always used the same one in my 5-cube saw that was a P51 when I got it new. Later, it turned into a very strong ported P52. Now it's a ported P52BP. Lucky me, thanks to my member-friend in AZ!

When I first put it together as the BP saw, it ran just dandy. I got the fuel completely out of it and put away, because I wasn't going to be using it. Now I can't tune it satisfactorily. It stumbles off idle, and I have to feather it to spool it up. Of course it stumbles bad with the low-speed jet screw only 3/4 turn out. It doesn't act much different until I have the jet about to fall out. (I've always had to tune the low-speed pretty fat, but nothing like this.) With the jet just about floppin', the saw is useable but certainly not right.

This is a saw I've been married to for at least half of my 70 years, so I oughta be able to tune it by now. Of the many saws I've owned, I've cut more timber and firewood than any of them with this sweetheart.

I swapped for the carb off my 655BP, so it's fine now. The troublesome carb is on the 655 now, and it's useable but not even close to right.. I left it on the 655 because I'm likely to need it for a job in a few days.

This carb has been cleaned thoroughly, and rebuilt with an OEM kit. Welch plugs have been out as part of the process, and the check valve looks alright and tests out okay. Thanks to the guys who posted about that above.

I know some of you folks know things I don't, and I welcome thoughts from veterans. Maybe I'll have to look for a new carb after all these years.

Thanks.
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
Joined
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Messages
6,566
Location
Southern Ontario
SDC 80 woes: Maybe I should post this in the general chainsaw section as well.

I've always run SDC 80 carbs in my P-series saw, even my P42. I love 'em. I've always used the same one in my 5-cube saw that was a P51 when I got it new. Later, it turned into a very strong ported P52. Now it's a ported P52BP. Lucky me, thanks to my member-friend in AZ!

When I first put it together as the BP saw, it ran just dandy. I got the fuel completely out of it and put away, because I wasn't going to be using it. Now I can't tune it satisfactorily. It stumbles off idle, and I have to feather it to spool it up. Of course it stumbles bad with the low-speed jet screw only 3/4 turn out. It doesn't act much different until I have the jet about to fall out. (I've always had to tune the low-speed pretty fat, but nothing like this.) With the jet just about floppin', the saw is useable but certainly not right.

This is a saw I've been married to for at least half of my 70 years, so I oughta be able to tune it by now. Of the many saws I've owned, I've cut more timber and firewood than any of them with this sweetheart.

I swapped for the carb off my 655BP, so it's fine now. The troublesome carb is on the 655 now, and it's useable but not even close to right.. I left it on the 655 because I'm likely to need it for a job in a few days.

This carb has been cleaned thoroughly, and rebuilt with an OEM kit. Welch plugs have been out as part of the process, and the check valve looks alright and tests out okay. Thanks to the guys who posted about that above.

I know some of you folks know things I don't, and I welcome thoughts from veterans. Maybe I'll have to look for a new carb after all these years.

Thanks.

Sometimes the capillary screen over the check valves go bad. I have never been able to clean them properly and they look good but are not. That can cause a lot of running issues.
Change it out.

Keep your finger close to save the C clip from launching. Good luck with it.
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
6,440
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Reportedly in the Area
You mentioned the check valve tested out okay. Depending on how it was tested, a pressure test of the entire carb may be a good idea If you already haven't done so..., even if it was just cleaned and rebuilt. Then there's the excessive wear between the throttle shaft and carb body that we occasionally hear about causing tuning difficulty. May be something else to look into on a carb with that much age and use.

Your description of the low circuit behavior sounds like unwanted air coming from somewhere.
 
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