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hillwilliam

hillwilliam

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Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
425
Location
Colorado
Thanks for your ideas and reminders, gentlemen. I always pressure test a carb before I put it back on - unless I forget. It's tight. No air leaks in the saws themselves. (The carb is on the 655 now and still doesn't work right.) Good idea about the throttle shaft, but that's not it.

I had carefully installed a new capillary screen, and there's no difference. Good idea, though. The jet and the jet seat look ok, but I can't really see much.

I hate to give up, but I've done everything I can think of. I may just have to get a new carb. If my saws aren't perfect, they're just not right.
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
6,555
Location
Southern Ontario
@hillwilliam
Sounds like you're not getting enough fuel to the to the idle circuit. One last thing to try if you haven't.

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner put the carb is a cup of Sea Foam Engine treatment, fill the ULC with water put the cup in and run it through several cycles.

If you don't have a cleaner, drop the carb with the needles out and covers off in a cup of Sea Foam and let it sit for a week.
Something must be blocked with varnish or something.

If you have to get a new SDC-80 carb, Walbro calls them active until gone. They claim they're in stock but at the princely sum of $146.24.

Very likely available from VE Petersen in Ohio.

 
hillwilliam

hillwilliam

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
425
Location
Colorado
Thanks. I've certainly cleaned it in the USC but not with Seafoam. Gonna give it a try. This may be my last option before buying a new one. This carb gave me 35 good years and doesn't owe me a thing, but it should be a simple problem and maybe you nailed it.

Is it possible the Seafoam would damage the check valve?
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
Joined
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Messages
6,555
Location
Southern Ontario
Thanks. I've certainly cleaned it in the USC but not with Seafoam. Gonna give it a try. This may be my last option before buying a new one. This carb gave me 35 good years and doesn't owe me a thing, but it should be a simple problem and maybe you nailed it.

Is it possible the Seafoam would damage the check valve?
No. It's friendly to those materials. I've done it several times to fix stubborn issues.
Not saying it's the magic bullet but it's the only carb / injector cleaner I've used that actually works.
 
hillwilliam

hillwilliam

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
425
Location
Colorado
No. It's friendly to those materials. I've done it several times to fix stubborn issues.
Not saying it's the magic bullet but it's the only carb / injector cleaner I've used that actually works.
Thanks for all the advice and help. I really had high hopes for you last suggestion, which made complete sense to me. Visiting family were out this morning, leaving me with some time to tinker. Stripped the carb, popped the idle circuit welch plug back out. gave it a serious bath w/ Seafoam.

I thought you were going to save me well over $100 and the humiliation of defeat. I'm about to order a carb.
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
6,555
Location
Southern Ontario
Thanks for all the advice and help. I really had high hopes for you last suggestion, which made complete sense to me. Visiting family were out this morning, leaving me with some time to tinker. Stripped the carb, popped the idle circuit welch plug back out. gave it a serious bath w/ Seafoam.

I thought you were going to save me well over $100 and the humiliation of defeat. I'm about to order a carb.

Sorry it didn't work out for you. Hopefully the new carb is still in stock.
 
Dader

Dader

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Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
195
Location
nova scotia canada
Rocketnorton thanks for the responce.I made a puller similar to yours but my problem is the depth of the three threaded screw holes on the clutch is about 1/8 inch or less and will probably strip the threads if I put too much pressure on the puller.The other HC saw I have does not pose that problem as the clutch is different and the holes are 1/2 inch deep.Hopefully someone has experienced the same problem and will chime in with a solution.
 
Beavers

Beavers

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Sep 12, 2012
Messages
551
Location
Canada
Are you wedging the flywheel with wood to lock it first? RH thread . Here is a pic of the puller l use . it works even if the shaft has straight key. l understand how you feel when you see the shallow screw thread count. l felt the same way when l removed my first clutch.
Here is my puller that works. The Qty-3 screws here are fron a Saw C-case long ones . Do not know if it makes a difference or not its just what l had lying around here.
lmportant to screw them in tight and the puller pulls evenly and not crocket. . l was afraid of them breaking off but that never happened.
The staight key is long so their is a lot of pressure or force your pulling against.
The last tool l use is a 3/8 impact in reverse.
Note Important: when you reinstall the clutch driver assy a old wrist pin if you have availiable makes a good tool for hammering it back on shaft and remember to install it with the holes to the outside facing out.
Nothing has broken , maybe l am just lucky.

Gotta have some faith in the engineers to.
Goodluck!
 

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Dader

Dader

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Aug 1, 2009
Messages
195
Location
nova scotia canada
Beaver thanks for your response. I took a good hard look at the setup this morning and decided to take a chance with a puller similar to yours and to my amazement the clutch came off rather easy without causing any damage to the threads.Now I need to post pictures of the bar, chain, and sprocket to see if anyone can tell me why the chain is binding with a half rotation.All of the parts appear to be in good condition.
 
Beavers

Beavers

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Sep 12, 2012
Messages
551
Location
Canada
You could try cleaning out the Bar groove , it may have soom crude build up in it or your chain pitch is not matching up correctly the clutch or Bar tip is binding their.
Check those areas out.
Good to see the clutch came off for you.
 

Lou

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Dec 23, 2006
Messages
1,303
Location
Buckley, WA
I was surprised when the dime (0.050), penny (0.058), and quarter (0,063 not tested, I do not have anything 0.063) trick worked for the bar groove size.
The Gent that used to sharpen my chains gave me a sheet metal thing with a pointed hook of sorts on one end (great for cleaning out the bar groove) and the opposite end has rounded corners and is notched about 5/16 from the end (I've never found a reason for the second) it's about 4" long and 9/16s wide.
I quit giving him my chains when a brand new chain was returned with all the cutters half ground away.
My 24" bars have 81 drive links and an odd number of cutters as well. I have on one occasion been asleep when sharpening and ground the wrong angle on one cutter; I think he did the same and ground all the cutters down.
 
Etinarcadiaego

Etinarcadiaego

New Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
2
Location
PNW
Hey everyone, new here on the account but a seasoned lurker and sponge of pioneer wisdom from you oracles. I am moving my query here from the general threads as Pioneer seems too kinky a subject to get traction amongst the normies yonder. Here goes: could any Pioneer guru learn us (me) on what the differences between all the 65-66cc p-series incarnations are? I am not asking about the obvious things like auto-decomp recoils and cosmetics but rather about the porting/timing/revs/modules that actually make work. I know the p39 and farmsaws used the oft-baked prestolite coils but was that the only difference? No difference in cylinders? Timing? Detuned carburetors? In short: what are the differences in the engines? Advance thanks and in return for your wisdom I exchange my humble discovery: old style stihl 026-034 gas caps work on p-series saws with a screw-in-tigon vent installed. Treason I know, but effective regardless. Appreciated.
 
Howsitgoineh

Howsitgoineh

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
54
Location
Ontario Canada
Just got myself a 1410A, nice looking 65cc saw (according to Mike acres)
Compression is ok, getting it cleaned up - no spark. My first guess for the cause would be a bad coil - it looks just like the one on my old homelite xl-12, Wico. My question is, am I right to change first the coil? As they are prone to failure in my experience..
Is anyone familiar with the exact coil on this model of saw?
Any help appreciated as always. Thank you!
 
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