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I just love my Canadien saws. I have a 370 and a 380, as well as two 70 cc saws with Skill and Skilshop branding. What I learned, was Power Machine was bought out by Skill Corp, and that is why the brand disappeared.
Bob
 
Here is one of my saws, the 380, which is a running saw. I haven't used it lately, because I don't have any wood that requires a saw that large right now. Most of my work, is being adequately handled by my trusty Husky 480. Sorry for the clutter, but I was in the middle of another project when I took the picture.
 

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I just love my Canadien saws. I have a 370 and a 380, as well as two 70 cc saws with Skill and Skilshop branding. What I learned, was Power Machine was bought out by Skill Corp, and that is why the brand disappeared.
Bob

Funny thing is I have owners manuals for both the 380 and 1680. The only change was switching the '3' to a '16' in the documentation. The saws are identical otherwise. My 1680 tag shows Type 1 but I don't know what that is supposed to indicate.

These saws may say Skil but they have have PM written all over them literally and figuratively.
 
Here is one of my saws, the 380, which is a running saw. I haven't used it lately, because I don't have any wood that requires a saw that large right now. Most of my work, is being adequately handled by my trusty Husky 480. Sorry for the clutter, but I was in the middle of another project when I took the picture.

Nice. Looks as used as my 380. I did go thru mine with new bearings and seals.
 
My saw is a good running saw, so I have no plans to re-do it at this time. One of my 70 cc PM saws with the Skill branding, is running, but when I was checking it over the other day, I noticed that the flywheel side of the crank has a little bit of movement. I am not going to run it anymore until I can do the bottom end. That is assuming that I can find the bearings and seals to do the rebuild.
 
Have 3 cdn pm saws. When working the are a good powerful saw. I have couple 270s and 175.(175)89cc. And (270)95cc.you cant take the power from them.i find the 270 has more power than my 650 pioneer.the old 650 and my 620 are nice saws just the same.i believe some odd parts will fit the old pm saws.not all but just a few parts.i have 2 sets of new piston rings to fit a 270 .should fit a 177 also.other is a set that is 0.20 over size.was thinking of swapping foa muffler for a hommie c91as long its in half decient shape.if their is any offers.other why's i wont part with them.to hard to get.
 
This is Canadien 270.
A few questions:
What causes this type of corrosion?
Is it terminal or repairable?
Does anyone know where I might be able to source rings & piston 015 oversize?View attachment 1020583View attachment 1020583View attachment 1020584View attachment 1020585View attachment 1020586View attachment 1020587View attachment 1020588
View attachment 1020589
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View attachment 1020589
Apologies for putting the same footage up 3 times. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
 
This is Canadien 270.
A few questions:
What causes this type of corrosion?
Is it terminal or repairable?
Does anyone know where I might be able to source rings & piston 015 oversize?View attachment 1020583View attachment 1020583View attachment 1020584View attachment 1020585View attachment 1020586View attachment 1020587

Sandblast all that corrosion off. May not require repair if only lightly pitted. Just make sure to get rid of all of it. And, like the other guy said, find another saw to get a good top end. Lots of 270s out there.
 
Sandblast all that corrosion off. May not require repair if only lightly pitted. Just make sure to get rid of all of it. And, like the other guy said, find another saw to get a good top end. Lots of 270s out there.

Lastly, make sure to get rid of the shields on your new crank bearings. Install them open. Shielded bearings are a terrible idea in chainsaw motors.
 
Ok thanks,
If it would be moisture, wouldn’t there be rust on the crank? The crank bearing spins without to much resistance. Would it possible the corrosion is from fuel sitting? I’m thinking particularly fuel from when it was leaded
 
I just love my Canadien saws. I have a 370 and a 380, as well as two 70 cc saws with Skill and Skilshop branding. What I learned, was Power Machine was bought out by Skill Corp, and that is why the brand disappeared.
Bob
Try mike acres he has alot of new parts to fit 270. I just bought a bunch new parts of him.and very cheap.i have a nice few old saws but i love old canadien pm saws the most.they are well built.little bit heavy but has alot of power to do any job.and dependable.
 
Moisture is the cause
Oversize pistons are nonexistant
i would wait and find another saw and try to make a runner out of two.
I know lots of the big PM's made it your way,not sure about the smaller ones.
You commented that oversize piston’s are non existent. Do you mean they don’t exist or they are like hens teeth & hard to find?
What does the “015” stamped on the top of the piston mean/indicate?
 
Ok thanks,
If it would be moisture, wouldn’t there be rust on the crank? The crank bearing spins without to much resistance. Would it possible the corrosion is from fuel sitting? I’m thinking particularly fuel from when it was leaded
Dont think fuel settings is your troubles.its misture.saw came in contact with water or misture.its killer.maby some dirt may got in there to.
 
I haven't heard of anyone doing this process in years, but in the late 50s, when I was learning about automotive engines and rebuilding, there was a process called knurling the cylinder, to enlarge the existing piston to fit in the oversized cylinder. This would not be difficult for anyone to accomplish with a lathe and a knurling tool. Practice on a scrap automotive piston, until you have the amount of knurling required, then go for it.
This somewhat describes the process from the Home Machinist forum:
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=88330&sid=a59f02c9db4670effa469ab50c595aed
Here is one example from youtube, that shows just knurling the most worn portion of the piston skirt. This is being done with the small knurling wheels, like the ones I have ( just to make the point that it is common for almost anyone owning a lathe to have them)



I also checked, and piston knurling tools are still available. For just one job, I would use the small knurling tool that any machinist would have available. I have a knurling tool, and use it for knurling things like tool handles.
Lots of them available on epay, just do a search for piston knurling tool.

Here is another excellent article regarding an engine builder using this process on his ProStock and ProMod nitrous engines. When you think that these guys are adding 200 or so horsepower, or more, to these engines, that has to add confidence in the process.
Bob
Edited to add more information.
I hope this is helpful
 
Regarding the corrosion, I have seen other saws, as well as magnesium aircraft parts, that have corroded like that, and I learned that it was because of the composition of the metal used to cast the part. That is the worst I have seen on a saw. People don't realize that an alkali based cleaner is poison to aluminum or magnesium castings.
Magnesium or aluminum alloys, are more susceptible to corrosion. Other metals that can be added to the parent metal, for strength, or some other property are, zinc, copper, aluminium, zinc, manganese, and silicon. For example, silicon is added to improve the casting process.
Here is a site that describes how to clean corroded magnesium parts:
https://www.electricdreams.com/how-to-clean-your-vintage-magnesium-parts/
After cleaning, I would use an epoxy to fill the cavities before painting.
 
I haven't heard of anyone doing this process in years, but in the late 50s, when I was learning about automotive engines and rebuilding, there was a process called knurling the cylinder, to enlarge the existing piston to fit in the oversized cylinder. This would not be difficult for anyone to accomplish with a lathe and a knurling tool. Practice on a scrap automotive piston, until you have the amount of knurling required, then go for it.
This somewhat describes the process from the Home Machinist forum:
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=88330&sid=a59f02c9db4670effa469ab50c595aed
Here is one example from youtube, that shows just knurling the most worn portion of the piston skirt. This is being done with the small knurling wheels, like the ones I have ( just to make the point that it is common for almost anyone owning a lathe to have them)



I also checked, and piston knurling tools are still available. For just one job, I would use the small knurling tool that any machinist would have available. I have a knurling tool, and use it for knurling things like tool handles.
Lots of them available on epay, just do a search for piston knurling tool.

Here is another excellent article regarding an engine builder using this process on his ProStock and ProMod nitrous engines. When you think that these guys are adding 200 or so horsepower, or more, to these engines, that has to add confidence in the process.
Bob
Edited to add more information.
I hope this is helpful

Some of the early IEL saws used Knurled pistons.
I have a couple.
 

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