Premature bar wear mystery on new MS 661 C-M

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Why, is my spelling and grammar getting better again? That's a dead give a way.
You’re just going in 10,000 directions. The current one is you can outwork anyone in Ireland.

Is it pharmaceutical meds, booze, meth, crack? What is it that you’re on?
 
You’re just going in 10,000 directions. The current one is you can outwork anyone in Ireland.

Is it pharmaceutical meds, booze, meth, crack? What is it that you’re on?
No man, I mean all of Europe. I was being modest at first. Thats about 380,000,000 people.
I didn't say 'out work'? I said I'd out produce them and break their spirit.
I don't work hard. I am the master.
 
No man, I mean all of Europe. I was being modest at first. Thats about 380,000,000 people.
I didn't say 'out work'? I said I'd out produce them and break their spirit.
I don't work hard. I am the master.
Modesty and you are like heat and metal contraction, an impossibility.
 
OP,
Like a few others said, push the pin in to run max oil. Every saw I have is set to max. It's annoying buying a case of oil a week, but i get really good tip and rail life.
A good saw shop should be able to hammer and grind your bar back into serviceable condition.
 
Well I ran an 088 with a 30" .404 on it both bar and chain were both new and it would have had to of cut and headed a good 20 or 30 load of logs and it ran really nice . Mind you I run the oiler flat out in those woolly bark species just to help out . One would hope quality isn't to blame . Was running fuchs heavy bar and cable lube so it was a lot heavier than a standard bar and chain oil or sump oil either way I hope you solve it and it is nothing serious
 
It’s odd though, they there is three of them on the bar, Two on
one side, One on the other, they are semi circular, like when you
weld and the heat spreads along the joint, it’s not continuous along
the bar length, consistent with heat treating an edge, I don’t understand that.
There are no over heating marks on the bar pictured, you can see the heat treatment at the sections of the bar where the paint have gone, it is a very dark blue & it is continuous about 3-4 mm wide along the rail edge , the bar has got hot enough to make the paint get soft & deteriorate but not hot enough to burn the metal of the bar.
 
There are no over heating marks on the bar pictured, you can see the heat treatment at the sections of the bar where the paint have gone, it is a very dark blue & it is continuous about 3-4 mm wide along the rail edge , the bar has got hot enough to make the paint get soft & deteriorate but not hot enough to burn the metal of the bar.
I agree, am more puzzled about neighbours spotty bar, as he didn’t heated or abuse his.
 
Not sure what's going on in here skipped over the middle blah blah but anyways to the OP dress the bar and sharpen the chain and go from there.
From what I could gather 3 tanks of fuel but you think the chain is still sharp? but not actually sharpened it as yet?
Owning a 661 you should at minimum know how to dress a bar and sharpen a chain?
And don't think someone can't destroy a bar and chain in less than a tank of fuel especially if they continue to try and make a saw that is cutting crooked cut straight by man handling and forcing it to cut straight.
I'd say in this case the bar after you dress it will be fine doesn't look like it's been on fire hot the chain is more than likely done (worn) and the problem here?.
Knocking the pin in as has been said will help lesson the wear to bar and chain in the future when you try forcing a crooked cutting saw to cut straight not that I recommend doing that.
 
Looking at your pics top pic has carbide chain how long did you run that rubbish it cuts like crap you most likely leaned on the saw to make it cut so yeah bar could trashed.
 
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