Pro vs Homeowner model

[wildwes]

Thanks, and no I don't know how to file a chain but I do bring them into the local Ace hardware for sharpening instead of buying a new chain every time. I don't sell firewood or make any money using my saw, so it's run only when I want to go out and harvest some wood or clean up deadfalls. Recently I've started taking down a lot more trees as the ash borer has killed off everything on my place. I imagine that using this little green saw every day on jobs might not last too long since it wasn't intended for that. But I've been impressed with its overall performance.

Whatever saw you end up with, it's worth learning to file a chain properly. It takes some practice to get decent at, but it will save you some money, you'll see much better cutting performance, and your chains will probably last longer. A few swipes with a file every couple of tanks of gas will turn having to have your chains ground into an infrequent thing, as long as you don't hit anything.
Also, get GOOD files, and make sure they're the right size for your chain. I saw a guy sharpening 3/8" chain, not low profile, with a 5/32 file, and wondering why his saw wouldn't cut green poplar...

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I might go put on a limb (pun intended) and say the 590 timber wolf is the most saw per dollar you can get

Yep, Caught mine 20% off. Paid $320 plus tax and sold it 3 years later for $300.

 

[North by Northwest]

Yep, Caught mine 20% off. Paid $320 plus tax and sold it 3 years later for $300.

A very affordable & reliable firewood saw , once properly tuned !

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I suffered with a few "homeowner" or what I call "disposable" saws for a while. I used a Poulan similar to yours for years to get by, but cursed it every time I used it. I agree with the chain comment. I dumped the "safety" chain from that old Poulan, put on a decent bar with full chisel chain, and that old Poulan would really get with it...until I couldn't feel my hands. Also, when that saw broke, I saw it was not worth fixing and was not designed for parts replacement.

Consider an older "pro" saw if you need to save money. It's worth it if the saw is in good shape and has had at least minimal care and maintenance. You will thank yourself each time you touch the saw. I even made a handy online reference for beginners looking for good models of old "pro" saws for this purpose, which is in my signature. I get flamed for it because it is on my personal website, but I made it there so I have full control over the content.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

Thanks, I just bought an almost new Echo 590. I’ve tried it out a few times, so far I like it. Bit of a learning curve starting it up but now I have the hang of it. 20” bar, looking forward to really working it.

 

[Sawdust Man]

Thanks, I just bought an almost new Echo 590. I’ve tried it out a few times, so far I like it. Bit of a learning curve starting it up but now I have the hang of it. 20” bar, looking forward to really working it.

Good choice, those are rock solid saws!

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

Brief update: The 590 is working out well, but towards the end of cutting I was throwing fine dust so the chain needs sharpening. The guy I bought it from touched up the chain because it was dull, doesn't look like that effort lasted too long. I have three Oregon chains coming. Will also learn how to use a file as someone suggested. I think there'll be a huge difference with a sharp chain. I'm happy with the power, the weight is considerably more than my little Poulan. More noticeable when running it sideways through a trunk. I'll give the Poulan a vacation while I run the Echo, will jump back on the green saw after a few outings to get a better feel for the difference between the two. I took down a small ash, about ten inch trunk and maybe 25 feet to the top. Dead as a doornail but the trunk was solid so I had a good idea of how the saw cuts through hard wood. Attached is a visual in case you haven't seen a power saw today.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Nice saw...the addiction begins

 

[Grateful11]

Yep, Caught mine 20% off. Paid $320 plus tax and sold it 3 years later for $300.

Same here, caught mine on a 20% off day and swapped the 20" bar for a 24" bar and chain and it cost me $330., still have it though.

 

[Section VIII]

I did look at the reviews for the 590 and it appears to be a highly-respected saw. For those of you who use one, are you following the recommended min 89 octane gas? Everywhere I buy gas I just get the 87 octane but I'll go with a can of 89 if it really makes a difference.

Until I found chainsaw forums I always just ran regular old pump gas.....never had anything blow up.....

For reliability and durability, I'd use a minimum 89 octane ethanol free.

Or buy 10-15 percent ethanol fuel of 89 octane or more, and use an ethanol removal method or product.

I ran a 590 for 3 years before buying my 462. The 72cc stihl is lighter but at a much higher price point. I sold my 590 for $300. I only run 90 octane e free gas with amsoil dominator at 40:1.

Don't listen to this guy, removing the ethanol will kill the octane rating of the fuel. If your not using much just get e-free, if your really not using any amount of fuel get the canned stuff. If your going through a lot of fuel get pump gas.

Thanks, I just bought an almost new Echo 590. I’ve tried it out a few times, so far I like it. Bit of a learning curve starting it up but now I have the hang of it. 20” bar, looking forward to really working it.

Ever since my local Echo dealer charged me an arm and a leg to replace a carburetor due to using regular ethanol fuel, I've only used ethanol-free and have always used at least the octane recommended in the manual.

I've been using VP exclusively for the past six years now and buy it in 5-gallon cans at a time.

My first saw was an Echo 450P. Biggest tree I felled and bucked with it was a ~42" DBH water oak when i lived in GA. Loved it but switched to Stihl because I didn't like my local Echo dealer after the owner's son took over.

 

[Umbellularia]

The 590 is working out well, but towards the end of cutting I was throwing fine dust so the chain needs sharpening.

What works for me is to sharpen the chain every time I fill the gas tank. When sharpening this often, it may take only a swipe or two per tooth. If you're bucking clean wood, then it may be possible to stretch things out to every tank and a half.

 

[cookies]

Poulan wild things use 3/8lp .050 bar/chain and as 0 anti vibe, they are great little engines put into a non user friendly case. They have a chrome ring in a nik bore so it takes forever to wear out unless its ran without air filtration or oil in the fuel. The Achilles heel is the tygon fuel hoses but once swapped to nitrile hoses the fueling and carb issues cease.
The echo 590's are choked up and set lean out of the box, I highly suggest learning how to adjust the carb by ear and if necessary get a tach. There are threads covering how to open up their mufflers so its not as badly restricted but expect to adjust the carb a hair richer.
Enjoy the nice rubber antivibe, your elbows, hands and shoulders will feel much happier after a hour vs the poulan. If any of the rubber anti vibe mounts ever break/tear or grow weak/stretchy stop using the saw until you replace them or you will damage other important components. Try out a 2in 1 chain file to use as your training wheels for hand filing, once you use it enough to need to change its files a time or two you start learning the angles and look of a properly filed tooth and the feed back the file gives.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

What works for me is to sharpen the chain every time I fill the gas tank. When sharpening this often, it may take only a swipe or two per tooth. If you're bucking clean wood, then it may be possible to stretch things out to every tank and a half.

Thanks, I need to buy a file. A lot of my wood that isn't standing has been on the ground , many deadfalls. But there can be some dirt on the logs, depending on how long they've been on the ground. My new Oregon chains just arrived. Huge difference.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

Poulan wild things use 3/8lp .050 bar/chain and as 0 anti vibe, they are great little engines put into a non user friendly case. They have a chrome ring in a nik bore so it takes forever to wear out unless its ran without air filtration or oil in the fuel. The Achilles heel is the tygon fuel hoses but once swapped to nitrile hoses the fueling and carb issues cease.
The echo 590's are choked up and set lean out of the box, I highly suggest learning how to adjust the carb by ear and if necessary get a tach. There are threads covering how to open up their mufflers so its not as badly restricted but expect to adjust the carb a hair richer.
Enjoy the nice rubber antivibe, your elbows, hands and shoulders will feel much happier after a hour vs the poulan. If any of the rubber anti vibe mounts ever break/tear or grow weak/stretchy stop using the saw until you replace them or you will damage other important components. Try out a 2in 1 chain file to use as your training wheels for hand filing, once you use it enough to need to change its files a time or two you start learning the angles and look of a properly filed tooth and the feed back the file gives.

I'll go to my friend Utoob and see if anyone has posted something about tuning the 590. I'm reluctant to commit to that since I have a good running saw that idles and cuts with good throttle response. I could see fiddling with the adjustments and ending up with a saw that either doesn't start, doesn't cut, doesn't idle or all three. The old adage, "if it ain't broke...."

I got out the green Poulan yesterday to cut some small pieces and with a good chain it cuts great. I did replace the fuel lines after I intercepted it at the landfill and have had no problems with it for over five years of steady use.

Thanks for the tips on filing and taking care of the anti-vibe mounts on the 590. I'm looking forward to using the saw for a long time.

 

[sand sock]

Hello all, I'm in the mood to buy a new saw. Current saw is a dumpster find that I've been using for about five years, have cut around seven cords of wood in that time. It's a Poulan Wild Thing with 18" bar. I've put new fuel lines in and keep it maintained and it cuts great.

If I step up to something with a 20" bar from Echo or Husky, what kind of difference in performance or safety or anything else can I expect? Current situation is I'm clearing many dead ash trees on my place, and some have larger trunks than I'm used to handling. I can still cut them with my dumpster Poulan but I'd feel a bit more confident with something bigger.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions, even if it's just to say to put my money back in my pocket and keep going with the Poulan.

i'm not going to try to spend your hard earned money. i dont think your cutting enough to justify a prosaw yet. i would go for a name branded saw sold in your area . so you have a mechanic shop. but this is what i would do. i would change out the normal star sprocket and put n a cage sprocket. besides the crankcase being cast on the lower ends. that is the main differnece. learn to really sharpen and that will get you through the next 10 years, i like 3/8 chain .050 a stihl with a 20 inch or a husky with a 22 or 24 inch. i think you need about 50cc , with where you are at now. next saw get a 60 or 70cc