pull cord out during shut down?

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Raker

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I always see the shop talk chainsaw guy pull the starter cord before shutting down. I googled it and found an answer, on this site actually, that it's supposed to be better for the saw (less compression when the saw quits). Anyone feel strongly about doing this procedure? He is the first person I've see do this on any piece of equipment, chainsaw or not.

It kind of annoys me that he does this, not to mention that he has the exact same spiel for all his saws.
 
I can't see what would cause "..less compression..." by pulling the starter rope while the saw is still running. Most saws have a starter mechanism that consists of a rope-driven pulley that engages the flywheel to start the engine. Some have spring-loaded pawls (dogs) on the flywheel that engage notches in the starter pulley when the flywheel is at rest but which disengage from the starter pulley when the flywheel spins fast enough for centrifugal force to swing the pawls outward. Others use pawls that are extended outward from the starter pulley to engage notches in the flywheel when the starter rope is pulled. In either case the mechanisms are designed to disengage immediately when the saw starts and the starter rope is rewound into its pulley. In general I avoid touching the starter rope when the engine is running, whether it is a lawnmower, trimmer, or whatever. I haven't dealt with the new "easy-2-start" systems, so I don't know they fit into the discussion.
 
The principle behind it is, if the saw kicks back on shutdown (i.e. compression stroke), it may damage the starter pawls.

The reality is that I've only been concerned about my Jonsereds 80 (which WILL have over 230#, if it takes every penny I've got)

I've not read of nor had any problems by NOT doing so, but you never know.


luck,greg
 
The Chainsaw Guy is a big Showman.

Those videos are put there as sales demos for his chainsaws.

A lot of things he does like the pyrometer before the cut serve no actual purpose.

I had always thought the pulling out of the starter handle was for the possible kick back at shutdown but aftermany years of watching my chainsaws at shut down, I've never seen one kick back and jerk on the cord. If your pawls are set properly, they are still out until the crank stops completely and a kick back happens so quickly that they wouldn't be in.
 
This is recommended standard procedure for old McCullochs - it's in the owners manuals. The pull back upon shut off can break starter cords and other things if the cord doesn't break. Ron
 
Exactly. The starter mechanism on a McCulloch or any other saw with flywheel mounted pawls (550XP) can be damaged during shutdown. You don't have to pull the rope out, but the starter components will last longer if you do.
 
Try it out on your OPE. You'll know the first time if it's nessecery or not. You'll feel a tug on the rope as the engine stops. As an engine with flywheel mounted starter pawls runs, centrifugal force keeps them away from the recoil rope sheave. As the engine stops, the pawls come back into contact with rope sheave and will load it in the backwards direction. With rope sheave mounted starter pawls, they could care less if the flywheel is spinning or in which direction. This type of starter does not need to be held out while stopping the engine because the pawls are retracted and will stay that way until the next time the rope is pulled to start the engine. The last OPE I owned that needed the hold out treatment was a Shindaiwa trimmer. None of my '63-'12 Stihls require that technique. I would do it if my OPE required it.
 
This is recommended standard procedure for old McCullochs - it's in the owners manuals. The pull back upon shut off can break starter cords and other things if the cord doesn't break. Ron

Yup. The kartsaws and the 125 will pull it right out of your hand on shutdown if you don't hold on.

Do NOT do this on the overrunning bearing Homelite starters as you will actually wreck it.
 
The hard part will be remembering to do it on my old McCulloch when I don't do it on any of my other saws. Makes sense on the older saws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Chainsaw Guy is a big Showman.

Those videos are put there as sales demos for his chainsaws.

A lot of things he does like the pyrometer before the cut serve no actual purpose.

I had always thought the pulling out of the starter handle was for the possible kick back at shutdown but aftermany years of watching my chainsaws at shut down, I've never seen one kick back and jerk on the cord. If your pawls are set properly, they are still out until the crank stops completely and a kick back happens so quickly that they wouldn't be in.

And I'm picturing what happens when the saw _does_ kick back as it dies. That's gonna rip that handle right out of your hand.

Harry K
 
It will indeed pull the starter handle out of your hand, that is the point. If not, it tries to pull the handle back into the starter and some times will succeed.

If your saw has the starter pawls mounted on the flywheel it certainly is a good habit to develop to minimize the potential for damage to the pawls, starter clutch, rope, handle, and starter housing.

Mark
 
The hard part will be remembering to do it on my old McCulloch when I don't do it on any of my other saws. Makes sense on the older saws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My reminder is when I look at the split up the side of the starter handle on my 1-62 from it trying to be sucked into the starter housing on shutdown.;)
 
Any saw with the starter pawls on the flywheel (or clutch for the RH start saws) will benefit from this procedure including the 10 Series, 600 Series, Mini Mac and Power Mac saws.

The risk is not so big on the small displacement saws since they have less oomph when they kick back at shut down, but some of the small ones have pretty fragile starter pulleys to begin with so a little effort can yield good results even then.

Mark
 
I think you guys have missed the mark on response to the question.

The last revolution, because of compression and that the saw may actually spin backward, it pulls the starter into the recoil as the pawls mounted on the flywheel are extended to catch the recoil, of which is to the inside of the flywheel mounted pawls.

Modern saws have the pawls on the recoil and do not extend until you pull the rope and engage the flywheel. No need to pull the rope out on these types of saws...

When the flywheel does spin backward on older Mac saws and some others, the pawls catch the starter recoil and pull it in... Against the direction of pull, as in the same direction of rewind and when the rope is already rewound all the way in, it has to pull something or break when things get tighter. Like the rope, the pawls themselves, the handle, or could even be the screws that hold the starter cover on.

Not less compression, reverse direction.
 
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