Putting a Stihl bar on a Husqvarna.

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biggerstaff94

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I goggled the heck out of this and didnt find a complete how to for dummies like me so here it is. There are no benefits to this, i just did it because i already owned the bar. This only applies to large mount Husqy saws and Stihl medium bars (3003 mount). Your saw might not be like mine, things could be different, this is what I did.

What youll need:
-Husqy large mount saw
-Stihl 3003 mount bar
-Stihl bar to husqy adapter
-17/64 drill bit
-Chamfer bit
-Drill press

The first thing i did was order up a bar adapter. They take up the slack between the small Husqy studs and the large Stihl slot. This one is a cheap $10 Neotech from ebay. Gotta have one.
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Second, I found the tensioner pin on my saw was larger than the hole in my bar.
2B183A02-A975-46FB-B057-A8C253E9637F.jpeg0F21BDE2-33BC-4F4A-AE3A-B278E774CDA7.jpeg

So i drilled out the bar with a 17/64 (.265”) drill bit. I would go to the hardware store and buy a sacrificial cobalt bit because chainsaw bars are HARD. Use a drill press, your going to need more cutting pressure than you can apply with a hand drill. I promise you will ruin the bit and get nothing done if you try to use a hand drill. Also if you have it, use compressed air to to cool the bit instead of oil. Run it dry if not and don’t peck at it.
D0F2925C-404A-4C1B-BB8A-419439A97EA2.jpeg
Boom it fits, use the chamfer bit to deburr your holes, dont be an animal.
4B75854A-CFBB-4F15-9466-182886615546.jpeg
Next problem was my chain was to short. I have a 372xp oe with an 8 pin sprocket and im using a 28” Stihl bar that specifies a 91 drive link chain. This was not going to work, not sure if it was from the big sprocket or the stihl bar on a Husqy. Regardless, i ended up having to pick up a longer 93 drive link chain to make it work. Once i did that, everything came together.
C0E6057A-ECD0-4A15-BEF5-7543DDC6F923.jpeg
My tensioner is in the ideal position, not to far forward, not to far back. Oil holes lined up proper.

Hope this helps or unfrustrates someone.
 
Yep. If you lay the Stihl bar on top of the Husky, I believe it’s around an inch
Any bar in 28" I put on a Husky with a seven pin took a 92dl but 93 with the eight pin. Bar manufacturer had no bearing on chain length of anything bigger than a 268 or 372. My 660 takes 93 dl with a 28" ten pin. I have no OEM Husky bars but one 20". Most are Stihl, Total, Tsu, Cannon or Sugi lw.
 
That could be an option, i dont know if i have the space between the sprocket and bar to move the bar back an inch though.
Seven pin allows more room to move your bar back on the mount. The dual mounts have a bigger adjust hole and the long slot Kevin referenced. They also have no area left in the tail slot like some bars do. Cut pretty much to the back end. Slabber bars are cut out sometimes at the tail slot.
 
Any bar in 28" I put on a Husky with a seven pin took a 92dl but 93 with the eight pin. Bar manufacturer had no bearing on chain length of anything bigger than a 268 or 372. My 660 takes 93 dl with a 28" ten pin. I have no OEM Husky bars but one 20". Most are Stihl, Total, Tsu, Cannon or Sugi lw.
I went with a 93 because thats what a 28” Husqvarna bar called for. I dont own any large mount bars or i wouldve used them. How does that 660 pull a 28” with the 10 pin? I thought about swapping but now its my big stuff cutter with a 32” tsu bar and no way itll pull with a 10 pin.
 
I went with a 93 because that is what a 28” Husqvarna bar called for not knowing others are a bit shorter. I don't own any large mount OE Husqvarna bars or I would have used them. How does that 660 pull a 28” with the 10 pin? I thought about swapping but now its my big stuff cutter with a 32” tsu bar.
I like my Sugi 32lw for big stuff on the bigger saw like the 066 for felling or bucking.
It took a lot of work in the jug to get there with the 660 decomp jug. The engine is built for milling or large stumps. Mostly spent my time on the transfer ports in the 660. Only forty off the thick base to keep compression near 190 or less. I still don't like the long intake time so the next one has ten degrees less = more 😉. The ten pin rim is mostly for milling with a 24" bar or maybe goofing around with a 16" possibly if you cut down an ES bar or something like a 20" cut down. The 28" ten pin is an old taller Sabre roller nose with the tail clipped a bit now to an open slot. I added some holes to what appeared to be an old large Homelite bar mount. That made it fit 3003 eight or ten pin. It already fit a 3002 but with a 12mm slot not 14mm. It also fits the large Stihl mount using bolts or smaller studs. It's setup like my Cannon 12mm opened up from a 3120 H1 long slot mount with extra adjuster holes now and two oil feed holes one added for 3002 and S2 3003/D025 or H1 feed hole was there already. Now it fits all mounts including 070 with the smaller shoulder stud. Still fits Husky or Dolkita and a few others with a split ring, sleeve or bar adapters of any kind.

That 660 still struggles a bit with 404 full comp like RS with 166dl. I'll get it there or lose more cutters. I don't like full skip on my csm. Half skip in the right situation but never full skip. Forty inches or more of hardwood really gets it hot milling so things have been changed to avoid seizures and aide cooling. The big saw can always step in if needed. The other mounts are the smaller D009 16-42" in 375 or 3002 ESWN 14mm 36s and 41s 123dl 404. Those are beefy bars but the Cannon big bars are way stiffer than any other bar made.

You'll like that ES for bucking on that saw or milling.
 
I like my Sugi 32lw for big stuff on the bigger saw like the 066 for felling or bucking.
It took a lot of work in the jug to get there with the 660 decomp jug. The engine is built for milling or large stumps. Mostly spent my time on the transfer ports in the 660. Only forty off the thick base to keep compression near 190 or less. I still don't like the long intake time so the next one has ten degrees less = more 😉. The ten pin rim is mostly for milling with a 24" bar or maybe goofing around with a 16" possibly if you cut down an ES bar or something like a 20" cut down. The 28" ten pin is an old taller Sabre roller nose with the tail clipped a bit now to an open slot. I added some holes to what appeared to be an old large Homelite bar mount. That made it fit 3003 eight or ten pin. It already fit a 3002 but with a 12mm slot not 14mm. It also fits the large Stihl mount using bolts or smaller studs. It's setup like my Cannon 12mm opened up from a 3120 H1 long slot mount with extra adjuster holes now and two oil feed holes one added for 3002 and S2 3003/D025 or H1 feed hole was there already. Now it fits all mounts including 070 with the smaller shoulder stud. Still fits Husky or Dolkita and a few others with a split ring, sleeve or bar adapters of any kind.

That 660 still struggles a bit with 404 full comp like RS with 166dl. I'll get it there or lose more cutters. I don't like full skip on my csm. Half skip in the right situation but never full skip. Forty inches or more of hardwood really gets it hot milling so things have been changed to avoid seizures and aide cooling. The big saw can always step in if needed. The other mounts are the smaller D009 16-42" in 375 or 3002 ESWN 14mm 36s and 41s 123dl 404. Those are beefy bars but the Cannon big bars are way stiffer than any other bar made.

You'll like that ES for bucking on that saw or milling.
Do you do any work to your oil holes on the bigger bars? My 32” tsumura bar doesnt seem to sling much oil evenwith the HO oiler cranked on the 660. The ES bar was great when i had it on the 660, i just stepped up because i had the power to do so. The 372 will be a nice felling and bucking saw for average size trees in my area. I dont do any milling, but ive thought about it. Nice straight trees aren’t something i usually work with.
 
Do you do any work to your oil holes on the bigger bars? My 32” tsumura bar doesnt seem to sling much oil evenwith the HO oiler cranked on the 660. The ES bar was great when i had it on the 660, i just stepped up because i had the power to do so. The 372 will be a nice felling and bucking saw for average size trees in my area. I dont do any milling, but ive thought about it. Nice straight trees aren’t something i usually work with.
Oh yeah. That stingy little slot is BS on 28" plus bars. The old Total and Stihl WN 36 and bigger has big round hole but they tend to plug up with dusty bits. Port the oil hole and roll it out to the rail. If you need more volume make it wider not round or bigger. The angle helps to alleviate the lip on the edge of the old style port hole. Angle clears bits like milling dry dead ash. Worst **** every except maybe dry locust. The fines plug up everything.
My Sugi 32lw is ported. Most of the Stihl newer bars and my Cannons are ported at the oil hole. The 28" Total is stingy on the 8401 Makita with that small slot.
 
Oh yeah. That stingy little slot is BS on 28" plus bars. The old Total and Stihl WN 36 and bigger has big round hole but they tend to plug up with dusty bits. Port the oil hole and roll it out to the rail. If you need more volume make it wider not round or bigger. The angle helps to alleviate the lip on the edge of the old style port hole. Angle clears bits like milling dry dead ash. Worst **** every except maybe dry locust. The fines plug up everything.
My Sugi 32lw is ported. Most of the Stihl newer bars and my Cannons are ported at the oil hole. The 28" Total is stingy on the 8401 Makita with that small slot.
Sweet thanks.
 

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