Question about narrow kerf chain for MS 250

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AmateurSawer

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I currently run an MS 250 with .063 and an 18" bar for cutting small diameter wood and light work. It makes a great second saw for my MS 362.
I have noticed a .050 narrow kerf bar and chain available from Bailey's.
Would switching make any real difference in speed or power ? I'm satisfied with the power I have for what the saw is but wouldn't mind if I could gain by only switching bar and chain. I don't want a shorter bar nor do I want to mess with the engine at this point.
 
You won't gain power but you might gain efficiency due to the narrower kerf. But on a 50cc saw low profile chain simply may not be able to remove wood fast enough, it's generally used to make the most of lower output saws. The wood density plays a role too. You can try it and make a judgement for yourself, personally I would stick with .325 but some folks love low profile on their 40/50cc saws.
 
I currently run an MS 250 with .063 and an 18" bar for cutting small diameter wood and light work. It makes a great second saw for my MS 362.
I have noticed a .050 narrow kerf bar and chain available from Bailey's.
Would switching make any real difference in speed or power ? I'm satisfied with the power I have for what the saw is but wouldn't mind if I could gain by only switching bar and chain. I don't want a shorter bar nor do I want to mess with the engine at this point.
generally .043 would be considered narrow kerf.You will find them on the 170/180 saws usually.The .050 gives you a lot of chain options,while .043 only really leaves you 1 chain,unless you special make chains.As far as cutting speed,.050 will normally cut a bit faster in hardwood than .063.If you need a new bar and chain,go for it,but to buy a new b/c just for a power increase,really not worth it.
 
generally .043 would be considered narrow kerf.You will find them on the 170/180 saws usually.The .050 gives you a lot of chain options,while .043 only really leaves you 1 chain,unless you special make chains.As far as cutting speed,.050 will normally cut a bit faster in hardwood than .063.If you need a new bar and chain,go for it,but to buy a new b/c just for a power increase,really not worth it.
Thank you. That's the kind of answer I was looking for.
 
Get the universal mount bar from Baileys, Woodland pro bar that one uses 72 drive link loops which are more common than the size that comes with getting the Stihl specific mount. Stihl has 23RS pro product code 3690 that is the best .325NK in my opinion. There is a seller on Ebay for most common Stihl chains, not sure if Baileys carries that as well as their house brand of chain.

I have the MS 251 I got it set up with the 3/8 picco but have used The old 23RS which cuts wider and is a bit much for it.

Your pervious replies referenced the 3/8lp or Picco in 63 and 61 classes. I assume you mean .325NK.



I would say the Stihl .325NK described above will increase speed and be smoother and make less chips. The Woodland pro .325NK for me would get stuck in some things, perhaps the teeth deflected sideways.

It was perhaps 5 or so years ago I got the woodland pro NK.325 bar, mine actually has an 11 tooth nose not 10 like the description then and now says.
 
The OP never mentioned switching to 3/8 low profile, just about switching to narrow kerf bar and chain. I'd look for the Stihl RS-PRO narrow kerf full chisel .325 chain and pick up a 0.050 bar to go with it. It's reportedly a bit faster than 3/8 LP in that size saw, and less cutters to sharpen. I don't know how the Bailey's narrow kerf chain compare, but I 'd give it a shot. 3/8 LP with Stihl PS/PS3 chain should work well on an MS 250, though whether its worth switching from .325 depends on how dissatisfied you are with your current setup.
 
I didn’t pick up on him maybe running #63 or #61 chain. I was thinking 0.063. Even my 660 has 0.050 on it. The narrow kerf chain on my 170 takes the same file as the 0.050 chain. Is there a spur sprocket with another tooth on it available? Unless you pick up some chain speed at the same time, I doubt you’ll see much increase in cutting speed.


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The ms251 and I believe the 241, 250, maybe all the way down to the ms170 use the same drum. at least for the 251 I have there is a Stihl mini spline rim drive that can accept picco 3/8 sprockets and .325 rim sprockets. There is an Oregon small spline drum that can use generic small spline .sprockets in 1/4 and .325. Then the spur sprockets attached to drums. A ms250 is 2.9 hp so 7 tooth .325 would really be the sensible choice but there is an 8 tooth .325 for the Oregon drum not sure about the Stihl mini spline that spline is used on the ms 260/261 I believe.
 
The ms251 and I believe the 241, 250, maybe all the way down to the ms170 use the same drum. at least for the 251 I have there is a Stihl mini spline rim drive that can accept picco 3/8 sprockets and .325 rim sprockets. There is an Oregon small spline drum that can use generic small spline .sprockets in 1/4 and .325. Then the spur sprockets attached to drums. A ms250 is 2.9 hp so 7 tooth .325 would really be the sensible choice but there is an 8 tooth .325 for the Oregon drum not sure about the Stihl mini spline that spline is used on the ms 260/261 I believe.

Yes. But if there is one with an extra tooth in Picco 3/8” combined with 0.43 chain perhaps? My 261 came with .325 but it got changed up to full cutter Picco 3/8”. Called the “Pro Kit” maybe? The Picco had a narrower cut but it also seemed that the accompanying rim sprocket ran more speed.


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Well now there is a new pro in town. Not sure about the kit or even the bars from Stihl. Your MS261 can now run 23rs pro. (I won't be of much help sourcing a bar though) You might even like it better that the Picco pro kit. The 3690 product code is 0.050 drive links all way not the necked down lower portions with 0.063 upper portion like the previous 23rs or rm. The cutters do look very much like the 63PS ones. The 261 has a different mount than the 250 for this thread.
 
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