Questions about installing a wood stove

[etc]

So I got this wood stove to install (pictured during its previous install), can someone identify what it is, how old it is, what they sell for, et cetera.

Second question:
I want to install it in place of this fireplace insert (second pic) - same question, what is it and what price range does it sell for. We've had it for 20 years but I didn't buy it so don't know. It's just about useless.

Lastly, looks like I will need to have a bit of masonry work done as the brick step is not wide enough for the stove, by about 3". So another layer needs to be added in front and also the pipe is just above the fireplace, so a hole will have to be made there.
And it did not come with the pipe.
Any suggestions about the install process. I will have to find a local masonry/wood stove person as it's beyond me.

 

[BIG JAKE]

There should be metal tags on the back of the units that might say what they are.

 

[Mad Professor]

That's not gonna work in a fireplace. You need the stovepipe lower than the top of the fireplace, unless that stove also has a rear exit. If you hack into the flue above you'll still need a liner and have issues with clean out.

Here is mine, it's an old Warner boiler plate wood pig, but is pretty easy on wood use, takes 26" logs. It connects to a 316-stainless flexible liner that fits by the removed damper, with a stainless T-connector/cleanout. That liner is insulated all the way to the chimney cap which seals the original lined flue. You also need to address the mantle. I used ceramic fence insulators to give an air space and a 1/8" metal plate

The floor got fireboard and 2" granite to meet National fire code, > 18".
The old smoke dragon don't even clog the flue when choked down, as it's all insulated. The cap mesh on the top gets gunked up as it's cold there.
I clean it once a year after that being primary heat source 24/7, I get a 1/2-gal of ash. Rockford supplied the connections/liner but it weren't cheap, but well worth it after 10 years. Lifetime warranty.

 

[etc]

There should be metal tags on the back of the units that might say what they are.

I found the tag and it is unreadable, damaged. It's not metal, just a sticker.
I was hoping someone would recognize what this model/brand is.

 

[etc]

That is very helpful. Exactly what I needed to see.
I think if I set it on the floor, like you it will clear the pipe directly into the fireplace. However it's nice to have it on a stand, or the bricks, in which case a hole will have to be punched in the bricks and the liner installed (which should be installed in either way).
I need to find an installer in central Virginia, kind of Richmond area (about an hour west of it). Nothing comes up on CL, yelp and such. A local realtor supposedly knows someone and should get back to me tomorrow, we will see.

 

[etc]

 

[etc]

Reading this thread here. Still the question is, do I need a liner? This is a functional fireplace. Can I just run the pipe into the fireplace, above the flue?
Someone quoted me $3,000 for the bit of masonry work and the liner install.
What's the going rate anyway?

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/is-a-chimney-liner-necessary.209020/

 

[etc]

This is the area above the current insert:

 

[etc]

Is it safe to put the wood stove on the bricks pictured or should it be put on the stand in front of the bricks?

 

[Mad Professor]

Code calls for 18" coverage on all sides/floor, of woodstoves.

You need to think about how a fireplace is built. You have a damper that lets smoke into the smokebox above the hearth. The chimney and flue liner starts above that.

The liner I bought was custom flexible ovalized that allowed me to go from the flue into the smokebox and then hearth with the damper removed. I didn't have to hack out the damper and could return to a fireplace if I want to. The cap makes a seal so there is no issues with draft or loosing heat up the original chimney flue. The cleanout T allows me to clean the liner and catch the debris with a garbage bag taped on the T.

If you just run a pipe into the smokebox or up into the flue you need to seal it somehow. You'll also have issues cleaning as some of the ash will fall into the stovepipe/liner and some into the smokebox. Does your smokebox have a cleanout door? You also will have draft issue if you use the existing flue as it will be oversize for the stove

The complete system I purchased was ~$1200 with insulation blanket for the stainless liner. I installed it myself with the help of a friend. Took us an afternnon of work.

Attached is an old copy of fire code. You also might want to contact your building inspector and insurance company.

 

[rancher2]

ETC Before I spent any more time or money I would talk to my insurance agent and tell him what you want to do and find out from them how this needs to be handled to make sure you have insurance when this is done. In my area it's getting harder to get insurance on houses that has a wood stove.

 

[Mad Professor]

ETC Before I spend any more time or money I would talk to my insurance agent and tell him what you want to do and find out from them how this needs to be handled to make sure you have insurance when this is done. In my area it getting harder to get insurance on houses that have wood stoves.

It's a nightmare in mAASachsetts. Building inspector and an inspection fees. The last time I put a stove in there, the rectum er building inspector, showed up two hours late commented on the nice installation, then asked me to start a fire! The stove had just been repainted and not fired to bake the paint. He started telling me I had a leak when the new paint started smoking.............when I pointed out it was the new stove paint he looked at me like a sheep.

In Vermont, the town I'm didn't seem to have a building inspector. I called the town hall, and the clerk said we don't have a building inspector, and fire dept does not look at installations. She said "just do it safe you don't want your house to burn down......" I did everything to national fire code standards and whole flue liner and system is UL listed w/lifetime warranty. When I switched insurance companies, I had to show pictures of the installation and also show them the receipt for flue system. That made them happy.

If you do install a liner, I highly recommend insulating the flue liner. They sell special insulating material. This helps with safety, give a better draft, and nearly eliminated creoste buildup if seasoned wood is used.

 

[etc]

Given the 18" rule: So that rules out setting it on the bricks in front of the existing fireplace.
That leaves only the option of putting it on the metal stand in front of the bricks.

 

[Be Stihl]

That's not gonna work in a fireplace. You need the stovepipe lower than the top of the fireplace, unless that stove also has a rear exit. If you hack into the flue above you'll still need a liner and have issues with clean out.

Here is mine, it's an old Warner boiler plate wood pig, but is pretty easy on wood use, takes 26" logs. It connects to a 316-stainless flexible liner that fits by the removed damper, with a stainless T-connector/cleanout. That liner is insulated all the way to the chimney cap which seals the original lined flue. You also need to address the mantle. I used ceramic fence insulators to give an air space and a 1/8" metal plate

The floor got fireboard and 2" granite to meet National fire code, > 18"View attachment 936956View attachment 936957View attachment 936961View attachment 936962.
The old smoke dragon don't even clog the flue when choked down, as it's all insulated. The cap mesh on the top gets gunked up as it's cold there.
I clean it once a year after that being primary heat source 24/7, I get a 1/2-gal of ash. Rockford supplied the connections/liner but it weren't cheap, but well worth it after 10 years. Lifetime warranty.

I have the exact same T, liner, and cap. I’ve only had this install for 3 years but it seems to be excellent. I fully agree on the insulation as I installed it without for a season, then came back and wrapped it and it made a big difference. Nice install and great company (Rockford)!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gumneck]

The stove in the first pic looks like a LOPI to me. It almost looks like the emblem right in the middle just above the window glass.

 

[Mad Professor]

Given the 18" rule: So that rules out setting it on the bricks in front of the existing fireplace.
That leaves only the option of putting it on the metal stand in front of the bricks.

I don't think that stand will give you 18" on all 4 sides. Ask you building inspector first. You might consider fireboard topped with granite/stone like I did, add a cpople of those firebricks so you have an air gap (ask inspector about this too). You might be able to pot a 90 degree on top of the stove and route things like I did into the fireplace and up where the damper is. You'll need an ovalized flexible liner to do that.

I scanned what I purchased from Rockford

 

[etc]

I don't think that stand will give you 18" on all 4 sides.

Why not, what do you mean? It will have at least 18" of clearance on all sides. It can be put as far as necessary away from the fireplace and the walls.

 

[etc]

Is a 3x3' heat stone large enough for that wood stove? What is the recommended size?

 

[Mad Professor]

Why not, what do you mean? It will have at least 18" of clearance on all sides. It can be put as far as necessary away from the fireplace and the walls.

I believe the floor underneath needs 18". Read up on the code, I could be wrong

 

[dboyd351]

I am virtually positive there is no requirement for 18" clearance underneath the stove in VA
I live in VA and have a wood stove