Raker gauge question

[Stihl a grasshopper]

I just bought 3/8's and .404 gauges for my saws. This is one of the .404 chains, how much will this hump on the tie strap throw off the accuracy of the gauge? Right now the gauge sits pretty close to in line with the base of the previous tooth/ tie strap/ raker/ cutting edge, however in another sharpening or two the gauge will pivot on the top of the tie strap rather than the top of the chain. Tips? Tricks? Use as is, or grind all the humps off? Appreciate the answers!

 

[user 122190]

I use the Husqvarna Gauge and sometime use the soft and other times the hard. I don't notice much or any difference. I conclude :
1. the rakers should be the same (Duh!).
2. A little more or a little less probably won't matter or be noticeable. YMMV.

 

[hotshot]

?? You need to put that flat edge over two cutter tops & then measure down to the raker top (right in front of the tooth) to see what the clearance or gap is…not sure what you’re doing there. Ignore that hump that you have the red arrow pointed to.

A 20 to 25 thousandths gap is recommended for cutting hard wood, when the chain is new like that.

 

[TRTermite]

?? You need to put that flat edge over two cutter tops & then measure down to the raker top to see what the clearance or gap is…not sure what you’re doing there.

A 20 to 25 thousandths gap is recommended for cutting hard wood, when the chain is new like that.

@stihlagrasshopper is TRYING to figure things out. I saw a post on WTF Something like a Dumb question is easier to answer than fix a silly mistake.. I Think I finally figured out how the Husqvarna filing guide works (found a few great pictures here on AS) but I still fall back on free hand filing and forget the gauges unless a problem pops up.
Ditto on the straight edge spanning two cutters and measure (Feeler gauge) the gap between the raker and the bottom of the straight edge. Ignore that safety "BUMP" Then make note what clearance works best for you, your saw and the wood you are cutting..
Philbert is great at posting illustrations so if you looked (search) in his past posts you will Learn a LOT.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Grind em off. Easy enough.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'll add if your going to use the progressive style gauge which is far better in my opinion especially for hand filling when the teeth wind up slightly different lengths. Then yeah those humps are gunna piss you off for the life of the chain

 

[Lightning Performance]

I just bought 3/8's and .404 gauges for my saws. This is one of the .404 chains, how much will this hump on the tie strap throw off the accuracy of the gauge? Right now the gauge sits pretty close to in line with the base of the previous tooth/ tie strap/ raker/ cutting edge, however in another sharpening or two the gauge will pivot on the top of the tie strap rather than the top of the chain. Tips? Tricks? Use as is, or grind all the humps off? Appreciate the answers!

I don't see the issues with anti vibe humps unless your clogging the loop with chips in the cut.

One observation in your pic it looks like you just made your own progressive depth gauge using that awful bump.

Rakers are on a hand saw to clear chip. Chainsaw chain has depth gauges but no rakers.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Notice where your straight edge leads into the base of the cutter before it.
Yeah it's really that easy to have a progressive measurement already built in to the chain if you know how to look at it.

 

[tfp]

?? You need to put that flat edge over two cutter tops & then measure down to the raker top (right in front of the tooth) to see what the clearance or gap is…not sure what you’re doing there. Ignore that hump that you have the red arrow pointed to.

A 20 to 25 thousandths gap is recommended for cutting hard wood, when the chain is new like that.

Not sure if you were being funny and I missed it but that's how the gauge he is using works - what you can't see that you would from a top down shot is one or more holes for the raker to poke through and you file it down with the guide in place as shown. It hits the hardened steel gauge and skates off when it's low enough.

 

[hotshot]

Thanks for the clarification on the OP using a progressive type gauge, the photo appears to be using a piece of flat stock or a 6” steel ruler.

Jethro 2T is right, in order to use that WCS brand gauge the humps would eventually need ground off as the tooth wears back.

 

[link]

I just bought 3/8's and .404 gauges for my saws. This is one of the .404 chains, how much will this hump on the tie strap throw off the accuracy of the gauge? Right now the gauge sits pretty close to in line with the base of the previous tooth/ tie strap/ raker/ cutting edge, however in another sharpening or two the gauge will pivot on the top of the tie strap rather than the top of the chain. Tips? Tricks? Use as is, or grind all the humps off? Appreciate the answers!

I can see you're looking for logic...

Take a look at this;

It's a solid square bar of brass laying on top of the cutters.

 

[link]

Now, have a look at this; it's measuring blades - a standard mechanics tool;



That's how you do it.

 

[link]

In my opinion, if the Oregon says .025; using this perfectly accurate method... I'd say 020.
Only "you" know, when you start cutting; does it feel unpleasant or smooth?

 

[Philbert]

That’s an old chain, with an old style reduced kickback bumper. Do you have many chains like that?

I had a problem with the Husqvarna guide fitting over some chains, so I modified it, by filing the holes larger (top one in photo).



I suppose that you could notch your tool with a Dremel?

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-filing-guide-help.193131/
Philbert

 

[link]

That’s an old chain, with an old style reduced kickback bumper. Do you have many chains like that?

I had a problem with the Husqvarna guide fitting over some chains, so I modified it, by filing the holes larger (top one in photo).

View attachment 1022224

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-filing-guide-help.193131/
Philbert

I have absolutely no idea how to use that, Philbert sir.

 

[Philbert]

I have absolutely no idea how to use that, Philbert sir.

These are pretty popular filing guides. The part on the left fits over the chain (oriented for R or L cutters), and the rollers support the file.

The plate on the right is a ‘progressive’ depth gauge tool, similar to what the OP is using. It sets the height of the depth gauge by a constant angular relationship with the top plate cutting edge (e.g. 7°), instead of a fixed offset (e.g. 0.025”).

A lot of people feel that this approach works better as the cutter wears in length and height.

Whatever works for the end user.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Here are some other, related threads:

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-progressive-depth-gauge-tool.336757/
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/are-fop-really-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/
Philbert

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The biggest advantage to the "progressive" style is it sets each depth gauge relative to each tooth. A saddle type or measurement with feelers works fine n dandy with the teeth all equal length. In the real world with a hand file the cutters are never exactly the same length and that's where a progressive gauge shines.

Let's say you hit something but only a few cutters. Just file them sharp and the gauge will sort it. If using a saddle type then those cutters are missing out.

Orr... take all the other cutters down to the shortest. Naaaaa. Waste of time

 

[MGoBlue]

I'm not really sure I understand how someone doesn't know how to use one. I thought it was pretty straight forward. Sit it on the chain and file whats sticking out.


Snot rocket science.

 

[MGoBlue]

Husky roller guides have them built in:



WCS makes a nice one with more options on how big of a "bite" you want the chain to take.