RatchetScrench: The original ratcheting scrench!

[Philbert]

First Impressions

Got my RatchetScrench the other day: $22 with pretty fast shipping, and the discount offered.


Feels like a decent quality tool. Overall appearance is pretty good, with a textured, chrome finish. Some minor, cosmetic issues on mine: one side of the screwdriver has a small 'step' in it; the ratchet lever is rounded over on one side, but sharper on the other side; and the rivet feels a little light. But it feels like it should hold up, unless used to pry open crates, or if packed with sand.





I took it over to my STIHL dealer and It worked on every saw I tried, including a few Husqvarnas (except for the saws with tool-less chain tensioners - those sides were facing towards the slat wall, and I had to turn each one around to see!). I also learned that some STIHL saws use the 13mm bar nuts!

It really seemed to be of value with saws that have full wrap handles: the ratchet mechanism eliminates the need to reposition the scrench when there is limited access. My dealer, a fourth generation saw shop, even seemed interested.

I also tried it with a few different types of gloves that I wear when operating a chainsaw: mostly 'mechanic's-style' gloves, but also some heavier leather ones. The lever was easy to operate and responded with a distinct 'click'.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Scrench to Scrench Comparisons

The RatchetScrench subjectively feels heavier than a conventional scrench. So I compared it against samples in my box of random screnches on a postal scale. While some were lighter, the RatchetScrench weighed 5.1 ounces, while a full-sized STIHL branded scrench weighed 4.8; only 0.3 ounces difference!

The RatchetScrench is 3/4 of an inch shorter than the STIHL wrench, and the top tube is 1-1/4 inches shorter. The outer head diameter is about 1/4 inches larger in diameter. Maybe it is just the way that the mass is centered at the socket end that creates the impression of weight?

The shorter top tube length should make it easier to use with those cursed, front access, chain tensioner screws. However, it places the shaft of the tool right up against the side / clutch cover on a few of the saws. The ratchet mechanism should allow the shaft to be re-positioned clear of the cover in most cases.


Philbert

 

[Philbert]

How's It Hangin'?

I like this tool, but I am not sure whether it is more likely to live in my pocket, or my tool bag, in the field. I wanted to find a simple way to tether it to prevent loss, without needing a special holster, if I did decide to carry it.

The hole through the center of the sockets offered the best options. I played around with accessory carabiners, and some cord, and decided that a combination of the two was the simplest. This could be used to secure it to a pack, or in a tool pouch, in addition to a belt or piece of equipment.



Philbert

 

[sean donato]

How about using your fingers to spin it?

 

[Philbert]

How about using your fingers to spin it?

The sockets are pretty smooth, and the 13mm side is pretty small; hard to grab, unless you had really grippy gloves. Plus, there is more resistance from the ratchet than the bar nut spinning on the stud.
You could use your fingers to provide 'braking action' on the socket, so that you can use the ratchet on loose nuts. I do this sometimes with my conventional ratchets on hard-to-reach nuts, in non-chainsaw applications.

Philbert

 

[OM617YOTA]

Thanks Philbert, that's a good review.

I'm amazed that a specialized tool can be built, shipped across the world, and to your door, for $22. I bet there's not much profit in each one of those sold. I bet it's MIM. If it was made in America, it'd cost twice as much.

The difference in direction levers might be intentional, a tactile indicator of which side you're using without having to look at the tool.

 

[RatchetScrench]

Thanks Philbert, that's a good review.

I'm amazed that a specialized tool can be built, shipped across the world, and to your door, for $22. I bet there's not much profit in each one of those sold. I bet it's MIM. If it was made in America, it'd cost twice as much.

The difference in direction levers might be intentional, a tactile indicator of which side you're using without having to look at the tool.

Thanks for the kind words, OM617YOTA,
While I do not know what MIM is, you are correct that there is not a lot of profit in making a hand-held chainsaw maintenance tool ...(just enough).
The goal is to help make the toughest jobs just a bit easier. I've been there: five seasons as a wildland firefighter makes one appreciate anything that makes life easier during those tough jobs, such as on the fireline. Hope to pass that on to all you hard workers, out there.

The switch just happens to be slightly non-symmetrical. If that helps users know what side they're on, great. After a summer of use, muscle-memory eventually kicks in and I soon (subconsciously) realized that you can push the switch in the direction that you want the tool to function.

Thanks, again!

 

[Philbert]

Most new model STIHL saws have 'captive' bar nuts to prevent loss. The 13mm nuts were on top handle saws.

Philbert

 

[RatchetScrench]

First Impressions

Got my RatchetScrench the other day: $22 with pretty fast shipping, and the discount offered.

View attachment 838229
Feels like a decent quality tool. Overall appearance is pretty good, with a textured, chrome finish. Some minor, cosmetic issues on mine: one side of the screwdriver has a small 'step' in it; the ratchet lever is rounded over on one side, but sharper on the other side; and the rivet feels a little light. But it feels like it should hold up, unless used to pry open crates, or if packed with sand.

View attachment 838230

View attachment 838231

I took it over to my STIHL dealer and It worked on every saw I tried, including a few Husqvarnas (except for the saws with tool-less chain tensioners - those sides were facing towards the slat wall, and I had to turn each one around to see!). I also learned that some STIHL saws use the 13mm bar nuts!

It really seemed to be of value with saws that have full wrap handles: the ratchet mechanism eliminates the need to reposition the scrench when there is limited access. My dealer, a fourth generation saw shop, even seemed interested.

I also tried it with a few different types of gloves that I wear when operating a chainsaw: mostly 'mechanic's-style' gloves, but also some heavier leather ones. The lever was easy to operate and responded with a distinct 'click'.

Philbert

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert!

I'm intrigued that Stihl is using 13mm bar nuts on some of their saws. I haven't seen some of their newest saws, yet; are they the same bar nuts as seen on Huskys? The reason I ask is that, during stress-testing of hundreds of tools, the thicker Husky nuts seem to hold up better than the thinner Stihl nuts. (This involves tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen for each tool, so those bar nuts are getting worked. I've stripped the Stihl nut and stud long before the Husky side started showing any signs of wear). Just an observation; must be those extra couple threads making the difference.)

Glad to hear that you are able to operate the RatchetScrench with gloves. I, too, was usually using some sort of mechanic's glove (and eventually graduated to Maxiflex Ultimate, which are awesome). Both actually help with grip when the RatchetScrench inevitably gets a coating of bar oil on it. Like any new tool, the owner will develop their methods of use and muscle-memory; sometimes I used thumb and index finger on the socket, while "flicking" the handle up with my ring-finger to gain a few clicks of the ratchet, thereby allowing for those last few threads to tighten/loosen. To each their own; hopefully others post their tips on usage.

Also happy to hear that the weight difference isn't substantial between a full-size Stihl scrench and the RatchetScrench. That info will be useful to our wildland firefighters who can be picky about prioritizing the items in their packs according to weight.

To address the RECALL that affects a small amount of those initial orders: here is the link to our website, which shows how last week's customers can get their tool replaced IF they're having problems:

https://ratchetscrench.com

**ALL FUTURE ORDERS ARE GETTING A THOROUGH STRESS TEST BEFORE SHIPMENT**

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert. Hope to see others join in!

 

[drumbum]

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert!

I'm intrigued that Stihl is using 13mm bar nuts on some of their saws. I haven't seen some of their newest saws, yet; are they the same bar nuts as seen on Huskys? The reason I ask is that, during stress-testing of hundreds of tools, the thicker Husky nuts seem to hold up better than the thinner Stihl nuts. (This involves tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen for each tool, so those bar nuts are getting worked. I've stripped the Stihl nut and stud long before the Husky side started showing any signs of wear). Just an observation; must be those extra couple threads making the difference.)

Glad to hear that you are able to operate the RatchetScrench with gloves. I, too, was usually using some sort of mechanic's glove (and eventually graduated to Maxiflex Ultimate, which are awesome). Both actually help with grip when the RatchetScrench inevitably gets a coating of bar oil on it. Like any new tool, the owner will develop their methods of use and muscle-memory; sometimes I used thumb and index finger on the socket, while "flicking" the handle up with my ring-finger to gain a few clicks of the ratchet, thereby allowing for those last few threads to tighten/loosen. To each their own; hopefully others post their tips on usage.

Also happy to hear that the weight difference isn't substantial between a full-size Stihl scrench and the RatchetScrench. That info will be useful to our wildland firefighters who can be picky about prioritizing the items in their packs according to weight.

To address the RECALL that affects a small amount of those initial orders: here is the link to our website, which shows how last week's customers can get their tool replaced IF they're having problems:

https://ratchetscrench.com

**ALL FUTURE ORDERS ARE GETTING A THOROUGH STRESS TEST BEFORE SHIPMENT**

Thanks for a thorough review, Philbert. Hope to see others join in!

Hell yeah! More junk from china.

You should have filmed someone trying to loosen the bar nuts with the screwdriver end in the vid. Sheesh.

 

[drumbum]

The RatchetScrench!
Reviews, comments and suggestions related to the RatchetScrench can continue, here!

The RatchetScrench is the original ratcheting chainsaw-maintenance tool!
Proudly invented, designed and founded by US Forest Service Hotshot firefighters, the RatchetScrench finally brings ratcheting technology to the scrench!
The RatchetScrench makes the toughest jobs just a bit easier.

Information/Purchase here.



Looking forward to everyones' thoughts!
-Nick, Owner/Founder
View attachment 836932

Was the vid to convince retards or women to purchase?

Can't remember how many times I've had to pull the clutch cover standing and holding the saw.

 

[Philbert]

Can't remember how many times I've had to pull the clutch cover standing and holding the saw.

If you are holding the tip of the guide bar up with one hand while tightening the bar nuts, that leaves just one hand to position and move the scrench, regardless of whether the saw in on a table, log, in your lap, up in the air, etc. Not having to reposition it on the bar nuts, especially with wrap handles, is its key feature IMO.

Philbert

 

[InfiniteJest]

Mine works fine. Definitely can see this coming in handy when you get pinched facing a heavy head leaner with non-vis rot and you want the powehead off yesterday.

 

[Philbert]

Definitely can see this coming in handy when you get pinched facing a heavy head leaner with non-vis rot and you want the powehead off yesterday.

Did not think of that situation, where access could be limited by branches or the tree! I may have had to pull the powerhead from a stuck saw one time or two . . . .

Philbert

 

[InfiniteJest]

Did not think of that situation, where access could be limited by branches or the tree! I may have had to pull the powerhead from a stuck saw one time or two . . . .

Philbert

If you kill enough of them, it's bound to happen.

 

[Philbert]

Mine works fine.

What do you use for the roller guide / chain catch between the dawgs? Just curious.

Might be nice to have a square recess bolt on the inside, and a 13mm nut on the outside, so that you could use the same tool.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Wrapped mine with some spare, reflective tape. We'll see how long it stays on the handle. First photo is indoor lighting:

Second photo is pitch black basement, hitting it with the photo flash (how I might see it at night with a flash light):



Philbert

 

[Philbert]

New Kid on the Block?

This thread has been quiet for a long time; especially for an innovative new product. Ran across a similar product on eBay today:





Almost twice the price, with shipping. Says these are custom made. And, as the photos show, can be used on spark plugs on some saws.

Philbert

 

[sean donato]

That's highway robbery for shipping cost. Flat rate usps would cost no more that $4.00

 

[madhatte]

Bought 2, midway through first fire season using it. Works as advertised. No complaints so far. The decision to fit under a full wrap bar vs spark plug was a sound one; the plug is very seldom the problem on a modern saw. I don't want any fiddly accessories to lose, this thing is just about right as-is.