Rebuilding my MS880

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WisconsinBadger

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Use primarily for Alaskan Sawmilling with 60" bar. Low hours but I assume the hours I did put on are hard with extended running. only use Stihl oil. Well, the connecting rod froze to crank and piston shot. Got it all apart and before I order parts, thought I'd ask a question or 2. I'm not interested in porting it and making more power but I would like to know what I can do to help it run cooler if anything? Are there good aftermarket parts alternatives? What would some of you more experienced folks do with this saw when you have it torn down this far and want not so much more power but to help it last longer slabbing 45" logs. Thanks!
 
Use primarily for Alaskan Sawmilling with 60" bar. Low hours but I assume the hours I did put on are hard with extended running. only use Stihl oil. Well, the connecting rod froze to crank and piston shot. Got it all apart and before I order parts, thought I'd ask a question or 2. I'm not interested in porting it and making more power but I would like to know what I can do to help it run cooler if anything? Are there good aftermarket parts alternatives? What would some of you more experienced folks do with this saw when you have it torn down this far and want not so much more power but to help it last longer slabbing 45" logs. Thanks!

Don't let it idle for extended periods. Avoid cutting in high temperatures. Keep the chain sharp. Turn up the oiler. Keep the saw clean.
 
Don't let it idle for extended periods. Avoid cutting in high temperatures. Keep the chain sharp. Turn up the oiler. Keep the saw clean.
Thank you, didn't think of idling as causing heat but makes sense - all about air across the fins. I just remember my dad always telling me "Let that tractor idle before you shut'er down to cool"
 
Thank you, didn't think of idling as causing heat but makes sense - all about air across the fins. I just remember my dad always telling me "Let that tractor idle before you shut'er down to cool"

You should absolutely let it idle before shutting it down after working it hard.
 
2-3 minutes of idle after a hard run will cool it, running it rich will cause cooler operating temps, larger exhaust/less restrictive exhaust will cause it to run cooler, Run a smaller bar, narrower kerf chain, skip tooth will drop operating temps. Porting will also drop your operating temps, the fuel needs to be high in oil to keep internals coated for lubricity and cooling. High quality oil does nothing if it is cooked off faster than it is applied and you will see others saying anywhere from 16 to 32-1 oil to fuel mix. I will also suggest a hand held infrared temp gun to monitor power head operating temps. Keep the powerhead as clean as possible to promote max airflow.
 
2-3 minutes of idle after a hard run will cool it, running it rich will cause cooler operating temps, larger exhaust/less restrictive exhaust will cause it to run cooler, Run a smaller bar, narrower kerf chain, skip tooth will drop operating temps. Porting will also drop your operating temps, the fuel needs to be high in oil to keep internals coated for lubricity and cooling. High quality oil does nothing if it is cooked off faster than it is applied and you will see others saying anywhere from 16 to 32-1 oil to fuel mix. I will also suggest a hand held infrared temp gun to monitor power head operating temps. Keep the powerhead as clean as possible to promote max airflow.
Thank you, I'm just now getting around to working on it - been on shelve all this time. Working with Lee from Lil RedBarn on parts. Stihl was into 2022 for some of the parts.
 
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