Ripping chain

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Hydestone

ArboristSite Operative
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Location
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Hi guys:

I’ve got a Stihl MS290 with a 20” Oregon bar on it. I’m using a small Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill.

To date, I’ve been using a regular chain. Unfortunate, I hit a couple 8D nails today and buggered it up. I sharpened it and used it for the rest of the day, but it seems to be dulling quickly.

I’d like to try a ripping chain, I haven’t used one before. Any recommendations for one that I can grab off Amazon?

I mill occasionally for random projects. I’m currently milling eastern white pine for shed siding. Boards are 14’ long x 15-16” wide and it’s taking me 18-20 minutes per board. I cut the sides off with some vertical cuts, so it’s a big clean block of heartwood with no bark. Does that seem about right given the smaller saw and size of wood?

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If you are willing to wait on shipping, you can try bailey's: https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-30rp-3-8-pitch-ripping-chain-wpp-30rp.html

Woodlandpro is rebadged carlton from what I recall, and Blount owns both carlton and oregon. I've used both carlton and forrester ripping chain, and they seemed to be just about the same to me (I'm not sure who makes the forrester ripping chain, but it wouldn't surprise me if it were also carlton).

The price from bailey's is cheaper, even with shipping. At that point, I'd also recommend getting a second chain (I personally keep 3 ripping chains on hand, and have gone through all of them in one day when milling a dozen 3 ft wide red oak slabs).
 
14ft in 20 minutes (8" per minute) sounds slow on that size wood.
I use regular full comp chain and slowly convert it to ripping profile over successive sharpenings
Using regular a 441 I get about 12" per minute in that width hardwood logs, but I do sharpen after every ~32ft^2 of cut AND swipe the rakers ~3 times after about 100/120 ft^2 of cut.
If you don't mind posting a side on picture of a couple of your old cutters I can attempt a chain diagnosis.
 
I switched to carbide ripping chain about a year ago. unless I run into a stainless bolt (happened), or a fluted nail (also happened), they outperform steel cutting edge ripping chains by a huge margin. I cut a LOT of hardwood, mostly oak (red and white), maple, cherry, some pine and an odd sweetgum when it comes along. There is NOTHING like a carbide chain for long term performance. They stay sharp. I'm running two different XP395 Huskies and a 60, 48 and a 28 inch bar on a Granberg 72 inch rail. I use a winch that I connected to the top and wind my way through the logs. Both saws are boosted and run like a champ. I've never cut anything thicker than 41 inches but it tears it up like it's supposed to. I rebuild the saws every off season. One is in the truck, the other is on the mill. The carbide chain stays sharp, unless you run into a stainless bolt or a fluted nail. That happened within 2 cuts so I got pretty good at resharpening the carbide chain. Didn't want to take the power head out of the rails, otherwise I'd have switched to the alternate saw. You CANNOT use a standard file to sharpen carbide. Either go with the stones that are supposed to be for that compound or you can use diamond sharpeners. I carry one and a drill in the field for accidental oops' like last month. Cold and dull ain't no fun. So long story to tell you to go with carbide if you can find it. There are good ones and so so ones but I've never run into a crappy carbide chain. Same as any other chain, you'll need size, gap and link count to get it built, OR you can buy a big spool of carbide chain and sell it to the rest of us. For those that say steel leaves a better cut, you may be right but I usually cut thicker and can sand off the rough edge that the carbide may leave. Best thing about carbide is that you know instantly when its dull. The long strings of chips turn into dust and the saw stops cutting pretty quickly after you see sparks fly out of the top end of the saw... pretty telling feature. Let us know what you end up doing.
 
If you are willing to wait on shipping, you can try bailey's: https://www.baileysonline.com/woodlandpro-30rp-3-8-pitch-ripping-chain-wpp-30rp.html

Woodlandpro is rebadged carlton from what I recall, and Blount owns both carlton and oregon. I've used both carlton and forrester ripping chain, and they seemed to be just about the same to me (I'm not sure who makes the forrester ripping chain, but it wouldn't surprise me if it were also carlton).

The price from bailey's is cheaper, even with shipping. At that point, I'd also recommend getting a second chain (I personally keep 3 ripping chains on hand, and have gone through all of them in one day when milling a dozen 3 ft wide red oak slabs).
I also keep three steel ripping chains in the bag, just in case something happens to the carbide chain. its easier to fix it in the shop than to piddle with it out on the job,
 
I also keep three steel ripping chains in the bag, just in case something happens to the carbide chain. its easier to fix it in the shop than to piddle with it out on the job,
You’re right where I am. I keep 3 steel chains on any run. Two in the truck, one on the bag. I also carry 2 spare sprockets in the bag. Honestly Granberg and Husky aren’t really compatible. To tighten my chain I almost have to do a dance. The saw chain tightener is not user friendly because it’s front mounted. The flat tip saw tool blade doesn’t like going thru the gap in the frame. Long blade skinny flat tip screw driver is not optional. It is mandatory. Plus you can roast hot dogs on it.. (LOL never tried it).
I run 3/8 .058 chain on the long Forester. On my short bar (28 inch archer pro I can get away with 3/8 .050). That’s usually a vertical edge cut with lots of room below.
I don’t tun a supplemental oiler. Instead I dump moly slip in the tank to stick and reduce friction on the bar. Seems to work. Three years, one bar. Minor wear on the bar.
With one exception in the woods ive been lucky to only hit a fluted nail and a stainless bolt. They happened within two cuts at different ends if the same white oak log. As I was 7/7 thru it. It got turned into firewood.
I’ve found three kinds of carbide chain:

coated
Tipped
Full carbide
Coated is ok and it’s the cheapest .48 per link
Tipoed Seems to be the middle of the road but it’s higher priced .60 a link
Full carbide is just too expensive. 1.90 and up per link

if you’re looking for coated the guy on Fleabay sells it for .48 a link. made-9923 is his user name. I don’t have the tipped chain provider name to give you. He’s not in business.
 
You’re right where I am. I keep 3 steel chains on any run. Two in the truck, one on the bag. I also carry 2 spare sprockets in the bag. Honestly Granberg and Husky aren’t really compatible. To tighten my chain I almost have to do a dance. The saw chain tightener is not user friendly because it’s front mounted. The flat tip saw tool blade doesn’t like going thru the gap in the frame. Long blade skinny flat tip screw driver is not optional. It is mandatory. Plus you can roast hot dogs on it.. (LOL never tried it).
I run 3/8 .058 chain on the long Forester. On my short bar (28 inch archer pro I can get away with 3/8 .050). That’s usually a vertical edge cut with lots of room below.
I don’t tun a supplemental oiler. Instead I dump moly slip in the tank to stick and reduce friction on the bar. Seems to work. Three years, one bar. Minor wear on the bar.
With one exception in the woods ive been lucky to only hit a fluted nail and a stainless bolt. They happened within two cuts at different ends if the same white oak log. As I was 7/7 thru it. It got turned into firewood.
I’ve found three kinds of carbide chain:

coated
Tipped
Full carbide
Coated is ok and it’s the cheapest .48 per link
Tipoed Seems to be the middle of the road but it’s higher priced .60 a link
Full carbide is just too expensive. 1.90 and up per link

if you’re looking for coated the guy on Fleabay sells it for .48 a link. made-9923 is his user name. I don’t have the tipped chain provider name to give you. He’s not in business.
MASE-9923 fat finger strikes again
 
I milled a bunch of 6X6 beams with my MS 290 for the foundation on a hunting camp addition. Virginia Pine. The logs were just big enough to get the 6X6's out of them, so my cuts were pretty small. The logs were laying across other logs to keep them off the ground, and on a steep hill. I had a hard time keeping up with the saw on that little stuff, so, apples to oranges compared to 15-16 inch boards. But, that sounds kind of slow to me too.
 
I have a spool of ripping chain I no longer need. 3/8" pitch, .050 gauge. (Woodland Pro 30RP)
I'd be willing to make you a few loops if you like. Say, 25 cents a link plus shipping. Better deal than you can find anywhere.
I’m just north of STL
.25 a link sounds good
185 links per loop
Is it carbide or steel ripping chain?
 
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