I have been unable to keep up with all the dead Ash ( I probably have 1000) on my farm yet I still cut firewood every year. Those familiar w/ ash know that the bole (base) begins to dry rot fairly quickly. I want to fell these trees and salvage what I can...but how to do it SAFELY? In the past I pretty much just went for it, wedged the best I could and if that failed, hand winched it over with a long cable. Is there a correct way or are there better alternatives?
Safe Falling of rotting Ash
- Thread starter Boot Jack
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I'll be watching this thread. I have same issues.
Most of my ash are in the canopy and I'd rather let them fall on their own, than have the dead branches/widow makers strike me down. If I get them when they first die, I'll drop them and try to salvage the bottoms for lumber, and cordwood for the rest.
Most of my ash are in the canopy and I'd rather let them fall on their own, than have the dead branches/widow makers strike me down. If I get them when they first die, I'll drop them and try to salvage the bottoms for lumber, and cordwood for the rest.
Yea dead ash is scary, I live in michigan so I know all about it and the eab. I see alot of them like to break 10-20'from the base. Being hard as steel makes the hinge near impossible and have had them do some squirrely stuff.
I’ve been cutting them for the last four years. I’m down to most under 12” dbh now but they can still be very dangerous.
I just fell them like any other tree, but I also have a tractor and winch to take down the hung up ones.
I just fell them like any other tree, but I also have a tractor and winch to take down the hung up ones.
sand sock
ArboristSite Operative
I cut them as fast as i can cut and split them. I drop them like any other tree, not a big deal . if the tree had the top snapped out. You have 1 year to get it cut, before its to rotted.
You have 2-3 years if there is any coarse branch structure.
If you have any fine branch structures left. This is your danger trees. Its not uncommon when the tree starts moving forward . you get all this trash blowing out the backside movement. Watch the canopy, try to walk away. But if its going to rain trash. You might have to walk in a different direction or stay close to the trunk.
You have 2-3 years if there is any coarse branch structure.
If you have any fine branch structures left. This is your danger trees. Its not uncommon when the tree starts moving forward . you get all this trash blowing out the backside movement. Watch the canopy, try to walk away. But if its going to rain trash. You might have to walk in a different direction or stay close to the trunk.
Any dead ash that is over 6" I always have a spotter while felling. I have had the top break and go backwards or get catapulted maybe 10-25' past where it would of landed.
No stock answer to your question beyond every tree may kill you, especially dead ash. My dead ash tactics are to make sure you have a clear overhead where you stand, the clearest falling direction as possible, cut them quick, and run - don't look back - keep putting as much distance as you can from the stump - it is amazing how far stuff will travel through the air. If you can leave the crusty ones to nature, then leave them.
I recently cut this one with the lean. First movement and the top (in the foreground) broke off about 15' up; it landed just feet from the stump leaving a stem that I had to wedge over.
Ron
Wow! thats a great example of what I was saying a few posts up in the thread. Thanks for the pic and sweet saw in the background!
Living in northern VA and MD, where we got hit real hard with the ash bore, it’s become the most common tree I fell. Probably about 90% of what I cut is ash.
If I can get a rope in it, that’s first priority. Even if it ends up breaking and only pulling the canopy off, that leaves me with less hazard to deal with while finishing it off. If I can’t get a rope in it, I’ll cut like any other but make my notch just a little deeper to encourage the hinge more (unless it’s a leaner), and then move with purpose when doing the back cut. I don’t like to spend too much time on the back side of those if I don’t have to. Always wear a hard hat. I have found that the little ones are the most unpredictable, but the easiest to coax with a rope or winch cable.
If I can get a rope in it, that’s first priority. Even if it ends up breaking and only pulling the canopy off, that leaves me with less hazard to deal with while finishing it off. If I can’t get a rope in it, I’ll cut like any other but make my notch just a little deeper to encourage the hinge more (unless it’s a leaner), and then move with purpose when doing the back cut. I don’t like to spend too much time on the back side of those if I don’t have to. Always wear a hard hat. I have found that the little ones are the most unpredictable, but the easiest to coax with a rope or winch cable.
Question 1: does it need to come out? If not, let it be. Focus on the trees that can hit something (someone) if it falls. Of you have a really hairy one, route trails around it until it comes down.
Good replies. I do use a spotter on the larger trees and always clear an escape route. I'll use a spotter now on all marginal ash. Hard hat a given. "Getting a rope in it" I'm guessing means a line as high as I can before I cut...something I don't do unless I have a bad lean. I may start using my snatch block to avoid the kill zone when tensioning winch. Will go deeper w/ undercut and get after the back cut. Plan on doing some major felling in the next 2 weeks now that things are frozen. Hope I survive to report back.
davidprivett
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I assume that I am not the only one who does this, I notch and back cut but leave a little and walk away and let the next good wind finish the job so I am away from the bad ones. I have had it where I just sat down with a cold one and I heard the thump in the wood stand well away from me.
It 100% depends on the situation. If the tree has been dead for awhile and the branches are caught up in other trees, then I will use a piece of equipment and "preload" the tree by standing the equipment's front wheels off the ground by a foot or so. The weight of the equipment "pushes" the tree the first 5 feet or so down. I use a pre cleared path to get out of the falling debris area. If I can't get equipment to it I will use a throw line and 2 ropes with pullys or come alongs. When the tree starts to go I use the same pre cleared path. Preparation!!!!! is the key. CJ
I only have about a dozen Dead Ash left, some I will let drop.
Many have barberchaired or done other nasty moves while falling.
I make sure I am on my way at first sign of cracking and patiently wait for the fall if I can.
They drop chunks in multiple directions, not fun!.
Many have barberchaired or done other nasty moves while falling.
I make sure I am on my way at first sign of cracking and patiently wait for the fall if I can.
They drop chunks in multiple directions, not fun!.
Dead Trees scare me a little bit.. If it's small and if the tree allows me to do it, there are times I do a snap cut. That is dangerous but if I can make a Straight 180 degree no angle, just a straight cut as if I'm going to saw through the tree for my face cut and wedge it open enough to get my saw past half way through without the bar pinching then I remove the wedge and do my back cut straight into the tree, just a few inches higher (this depends upon the size of the tree and if it's dead or not) I'll wedge that cut as I go deeper into the cut..Once i get it cut deep enough that the two cuts over lap, if wedged right the tree snaps off and is guided only by the back wedges and the small overlap of the two cuts so it could go any direction if not done right.. I'm not recommending this type of cut to anyone because it's dangerous and is a learned behavior. There are times it's a good idea but not often..I don't snap cut big trees but little trees can at times be snap cut and hand pushed over..They just snap off and go where they are pushed.. All tree work is dangerous so I never advise but will tell how I do things..Some guy just a few miles from here was killed watching someone else drop a tree. That's a dumb way to go...I was taught to retreat 45% from the stump and that's what I taught my grandson...Years ago I saw a Sign that read. "Complacency Kills". It was hanging in a Shop.
At 75 I've had some close calls over the years..I almost got killed at 69 when a big limb about 180 pounds grazed me while in a tree..My history of boxing, some martial arts, and the quick reflexes of dodging and ducking and defending myself allowed me to react quickly and deflect it as it grazed past my left ear instead of banging my head against the tree...Fortunately due to being in good shape all thes years, I've survived what most 69 year old guys wouldn't..That close call convinced me to stop climbing. My grandson was on the ground using a rope to lower limbs and somehow that one got away from him..If It had killed me the poor kid would have blamed himself for the rest of his life..I've got some trees here on the farm that need topped but, well.. no, it's not gonna happen in my life time...Old men and old saws both eventually have to stop working as hard as they did when they were not so old.... GOOD luck with those trees..
At 75 I've had some close calls over the years..I almost got killed at 69 when a big limb about 180 pounds grazed me while in a tree..My history of boxing, some martial arts, and the quick reflexes of dodging and ducking and defending myself allowed me to react quickly and deflect it as it grazed past my left ear instead of banging my head against the tree...Fortunately due to being in good shape all thes years, I've survived what most 69 year old guys wouldn't..That close call convinced me to stop climbing. My grandson was on the ground using a rope to lower limbs and somehow that one got away from him..If It had killed me the poor kid would have blamed himself for the rest of his life..I've got some trees here on the farm that need topped but, well.. no, it's not gonna happen in my life time...Old men and old saws both eventually have to stop working as hard as they did when they were not so old.... GOOD luck with those trees..
Tigwelder83
ArboristSite Operative
Did that very thing on 4 ash next to a ball field today. Don't try to force them against their lean, definatly don't try to force them threw alot of canopy. Plan an escape route, and stay safe!
bck
ArboristSite Operative
Big shot
Rope
Come-along
Even hinge
They’ll go anywhere you want them
Rope
Come-along
Even hinge
They’ll go anywhere you want them
bck
ArboristSite Operative
And a hard hat!
with 1,000 trees i'd lean towards using a full sized excavator or a D9 bulldozer and start pushing them down or even cutting wide fire breaks into 1/4 acre sections and burning them out.
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