Saw hard to pull over

[JayPopple]

I have been reading on this site of issues with chain saws being hard to pull over acting like it may be hydrolocked. I have a Husqvarna 266 SE with that problem. Many posters have suggested excess carbon buildup, clutch problems, bearing problems etc.
My saw has 150 lbs compression, I removed the jug to check the carbon buildup and it is non existent. I have’t had this issue until about 3 or 4 years ago. I finally saw a video on YouTube
and this is what I have found. The recoil starter is wore out. The complete assembly cost is about $130. As the saw is about 35 years old I will pass. I have sprayed the starter assembly with a silicone spray and that has solved the issue. I realize that is a stopgap solution however as I stated before the saw is quite old.

 

[JayPopple]

I have been reading on this site of issues with chain saws being hard to pull over acting like it may be hydrolocked. I have a Husqvarna 266 SE with that problem. Many posters have suggested excess carbon buildup, clutch problems, bearing problems etc.
My saw has 150 lbs compression, I removed the jug to check the carbon buildup and it is non existent. I have’t had this issue until about 3 or 4 years ago. I finally saw a video on YouTube
and this is what I have found. The recoil starter is wore out. The complete assembly cost is about $130. As the saw is about 35 years old I will pass. I have sprayed the starter assembly with a silicone spray and that has solved the issue. I realize that is a stopgap solution however as I stated before the saw is quite old.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Just rebuild it.

https://www.partstree.com/models/266-husqvarna-chainsaw-1986-04/starter-assembly-12/

 

[cookies]

yup, put new guts into it and keep going

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

What they said- along with clean the dang thing out now and then.

 

[cscltd]

There are a few different starters used on 266. check with part # on pulley unless your getting complete starter. Usually it is just the pulley that is warped that makes it hard to pull. And can also put Stihl elasto start handle on it to reduce shock. Get the one that starts with 1122 on part# for correct rope size

 

[JayPopple]

Just rebuild it.

https://www.partstree.com/models/266-husqvarna-chainsaw-1986-04/starter-assembly-12/

Individual parts for that assembly are more expensive then purchasing a complete unit. I am not cutting fire wood like I was when I originally purchased that saw, I only use it to clear out trails and dead falls. Not cost effective.

There are a few different starters used on 266. check with part # on pulley unless your getting complete starter. Usually it is just the pulley that is warped that makes it hard to pull. And can also put Stihl elasto start handle on it to reduce shock. Get the one that starts with 1122 on part# for correct rope size

so here’s the deal, the pin that is cast into the cover is worn out, the bushing / pulley is too loose on the pin, and the piece called the washer which supports the pulley is wore also. The pulley cocks over when under load and binds up making it very difficult to pull over. Even if I were to replace those parts it would not work correctly because of the worn pin. The best option is a new starter assembly at the cost of about $130. Then I will still have an old saw. An other issue with this saw is a crack is developing by one of the anti vibration mounts where it attaches to the crankcase. I feel the life of this saw is limited and as long as I can start it using some lubricant that is what I will be doing.

 

[grizz55chev]

Individual parts for that assembly are more expensive then purchasing a complete unit. I am not cutting fire wood like I was when I originally purchased that saw, I only use it to clear out trails and dead falls. Not cost effective.

so here’s the deal, the pin that is cast into the cover is worn out, the bushing / pulley is too loose on the pin, and the piece called the washer which supports the pulley is wore also. The pulley cocks over when under load and binds up making it very difficult to pull over. Even if I were to replace those parts it would not work correctly because of the worn pin. The best option is a new starter assembly at the cost of about $130. Then I will still have an old saw. An other issue with this saw is a crack is developing by one of the anti vibration mounts where it attaches to the crankcase. I feel the life of this saw is limited and as long as I can start it using some lubricant that is what I will be doing.

Not really sure why you're here.?

 

[JayPopple]

Not really sure why you're here.?

Before I joined I read on several sites a number of answers relating to the subject “saw hard to pull over”. The information / answers given didn’t solve the problem. I decided to join a site to pass on information to help those searching for a solution. And I have a very inexpensive way of diagnosing the problem, that is remove the recoil assembly, spray with some silicone lubricant, reinstall and see if the problem improves or goes away. If that corrects the issues then you have an answer and can formulate a permanent repair if it is cost effective.

 

[grizz55chev]

Before I joined I read on several sites a number of answers relating to the subject “saw hard to pull over”. The information / answers given didn’t solve the problem. I decided to join a site to pass on information to help those searching for a solution. And I have a very inexpensive way of diagnosing the problem, that is remove the recoil assembly, spray with some silicone lubricant, reinstall and see if the problem improves or goes away. If that corrects the issues then you have an answer and can formulate a permanent repair if it is cost effective.

So your fix is silicone spray? Keep us posted on how long that lasts.

 

[sean donato]

Of you have a local machine shop worth a hoot they can make you a new bushing to take up the slop on the pin, shouldn't be real expensive and should last the rest of the saws usable life.

 

[JayPopple]

Of you have a local machine shop worth a hoot they can make you a new bushing to take up the slop on the pin, shouldn't be real expensive and should last the rest of the saws usable life.

Of you have a local machine shop worth a hoot they can make you a new bushing to take up the slop on the pin, shouldn't be real expensive and should last the rest of the saws usable life.

The wore out pin and bushing isn’ the only thing, starter pulley- $36.88, washer- $7.88, recoil spring- $22.35, starting handle- $10.05, rope- $7.82, starter housing- $33.58. Total $118.55 not including fasteners and common hardware and not including shipping charges. This saw is relegated to my # 2 saw, I can make it work for what I would need to use it.

So your fix is silicone spray? Keep us posted on how long that lasts.

I sprayed and used the saw for 1 day cutting up a fallen tree in my yard. The saw started the same as before I had the issue. It only takes a minute to remove the housing, spray it and replace it. I will be trying other lubricants to see which one is most effective. However I need to make sure that I don’t accumulate sawdust as that defeats the purpose. I realize this is a stop gap solution but I don’t use this saw often and I don’t want to spend the money. As a matter of fact I have purchased an Echo battery powered saw to use as my primary, this one is my secondary now and I will be using it if I get into wood too big for the Echo.

 

[Woodslasher]

Individual parts for that assembly are more expensive then purchasing a complete unit. I am not cutting fire wood like I was when I originally purchased that saw, I only use it to clear out trails and dead falls. Not cost effective.

so here’s the deal, the pin that is cast into the cover is worn out, the bushing / pulley is too loose on the pin, and the piece called the washer which supports the pulley is wore also. The pulley cocks over when under load and binds up making it very difficult to pull over. Even if I were to replace those parts it would not work correctly because of the worn pin. The best option is a new starter assembly at the cost of about $130. Then I will still have an old saw. An other issue with this saw is a crack is developing by one of the anti vibration mounts where it attaches to the crankcase. I feel the life of this saw is limited and as long as I can start it using some lubricant that is what I will be doing.

Are you sure it is the pin? I've had recoils lock up due to the two "sides" of the pulley spreading far enough that the pull rope pinches itself and locks up. Just replacing the pulley has fixed that for me. Also, if your current rope, handle, and spring aren't bad, don't replace them. Plus, if you punch in the Husky part numbers on ebay you can often find oem Husky parts for cheaper that the dealer offers.

 

[JayPopple]

Are you sure it is the pin? I've had recoils lock up due to the two "sides" of the pulley spreading far enough that the pull rope pinches itself and locks up. Just replacing the pulley has fixed that for me. Also, if your current rope, handle, and spring aren't bad, don't replace them. Plus, if you punch in the Husky part numbers on ebay you can often find oem Husky parts for cheaper that the dealer offers.

Please read and understand what I am saying. I am not repairing this saw! It is not cost effective and when I am done with the repair I still have an old saw!!!

 

[Karrl]

If you’re looking to upgrade I’d be interested in buying your old saw.

 

[Woodslasher]

Please read and understand what I am saying. I am not repairing this saw! It is not cost effective and when I am done with the repair I still have an old saw!!!

Ok, but here is a cheaper option you may want to consider: The guy who runs Chainsawr is a sponsor on this forum who deals in good used parts and I can personally say all my dealings with him have been stellar. If you still don't feel the urge to fix it, then I will respectfully bow out of this thread.
https://store.chainsawr.com/collect...6-61-chainsaw-starter-recoil-cover-and-pulley

 

[Dean-O]

You keep saying it’s not cost effective. Why? The 266SE is a great saw, no matter how old it is. I work on 266SEs all the time at my shop, every customer that brings one in fixes it no matter the cost, unless it needs new bearings then they won’t fix it because of high cost of labor. I just did a top end and tune up on an 266SE a month or two ago. It’s worth putting $130 into all day long IMO.

 

[JayPopple]

If you’re looking to upgrade I’d be interested in buying your old saw.

Thanks for the offer, not at this time.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Starter assemblies are sold for most saws for around $20 on ebay if you don't mind China stuff..

 

[JayPopple]

You keep saying it’s not cost effective. Why? The 266SE is a great saw, no matter how old it is. I work on 266SEs all the time at my shop, every customer that brings one in fixes it no matter the cost, unless it needs new bearings then they won’t fix it because of high cost of labor. I just did a top end and tune up on an 266SE a month or two ago. It’s worth putting $130 into all day long IMO.

You haven’t been reading my posts. As I indicated I have a crack developing in the crank case, when that progresses to failure that’s the end of that saw.
Yes it’s a good saw, I have 150 psi compression. Through the course of troubleshooting my hard pulling to start I removed the jug to inspect for carbon buildup. Virtually non existent. The jug, piston, and ring ( single ring) are pristine. As a matter of fact I have only used 2 spark plugs through the many years I have been running this saw. The oil I have used is manufactured by AMSOIL, it is AMSOIL synthetic 100 which is a 100 to one oil mix and I mix it 100 to 1. I also use the highest octane fuel I can purchase which in my local is 91 non oxygenated. When I bought the saw I was working with a partner and we harvested at least 50 cord of firewood per year cut to size and split. We took about 8 full cord each and sold the balance. This partnership lasted over 10 years. So as you can see this saw has a lot of run time on it. Now I have a cordless electric saw as my primary with my 266 as a backup.
My main reason for being on this site is to advise those persons who have issues with a hard to pull saw what I have discovered and hopefully they can solve their problem. For instance a saw in the upright position, it is unlikely it would syphon fuel into the crankcase to hydrostaticly lock the saw. The same with carbon buildup. A clutch problem might happen but you would see other issues too. And many of these saws were manufactured with out a compression relief why would a old saw all of a sudden need one to start? Other solutions stated a defective starter rope pulley. That is close to the mark, but without a detailed inspection one can never be sure. However I believe my method of a simple lubricating of the starter assembly and trying to start the machine can solve the hard to pull dilemma. With a proper diagnoses then one can complete a repair.
Here is other things regarding my saw, I am on the third bar and it’s getting wore. Unknown number of chains, if I had to guess 12 or more. I also have 2 new ones in reserve. I am on the second drive sprocket and that is due for replacement. The saw has not suffered for lack of maintenance. But again it is old. I worked maintenance for a major paper manufacturing company. Our policy was: if the cost of repair was 50% of a new unit then we purchased a new unit. Based on that criteria with all the repairs needed to make my saw new, I would be better off to purchase new, and then I have a new warranty also.