WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
Here is all the proof we need to know this country has gone to the dogs.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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xraydaniel
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I’m looking at beater trucks from late 90’s and early 00’s. What are a few of the best V8 gassers from Dodge, Chevy, GMC, or Ford?
There aren't any from Ford or Dodge........
I've had very good experience with my 01 GMC with 5.3
I only work on Stihl 044/440, 046/460, 461 and 066/660.
Nothing hard to work on, and good durable pro saws that just keep going!
Nothing hard to work on, and good durable pro saws that just keep going!
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
There aren't any good ones from dodge, chevy or gmc. Just ask me and I'll tell ya. Ford trucks and Stihl chainsaws are all u need.
xraydaniel
Addicted to ArboristSite
That’s what I’m reading. Salt is the killer.There aren't any good ones from dodge, chevy or gmc. Just ask me and I'll tell ya. Ford trucks and Stihl chainsaws are all u need.
Yeah, if you live in the dang rust belt ur screwed.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
IMO, the vortec/ls GM motors are the best gas v8s of that time period. I thought the 5.3s we used to have in the work trucks were good motors, decent power for their displacement. The 6.0 has a very good reputation as well, I'm 1/2 tempted to buy a used 6.0 to swap into my 72 k20.
I had a 2500 Dodge with the 5.7...it wasn't bad, it had close to 200k miles on it when I sold it. However, the interior and paint on that truck were completely shot. Also the motor liked to rev, got terrible gas mileage, and shifted a lot while towing...but those are probably complaints for any late-model gas truck. Despite the bad wrap Dodges get, the only issues I ever had with that pickup were ball joints, AC compressor, and the power steering pump. I did eventually have to replace the dash, it quite literally fell apart. I religiously used a windshield sun shade after the new dash.
IMO, the 4.6/5.4 Ford motors are gutless, spark plug shooting turds. My old man had a F150 for awhile with the 5.4, he also had head gasket issues with it. It did get better mileage than my Dodge gasser, but was gutless in comparison...it was a big disappointment compared to his f250 w/ the 460. He eventually sold the f150 and still has the f250.
Fixed
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
Rust is the enemy! I have owned more trucks than I can count over the last 50 years. Fords, Toyotas, Datsuns, Nissans, Dodges and Chevys. They all more than earned their keep. However the ones that needed the least repairs and rusted less than most of the others were multiple Ford F250's. All but one 1976 Toyota were purchased used. Many were trucks that were owned by businesses that were employee abused. I remember one '96 F250 I bought had so much caulk on the seat I threw it out and got another from the junk yard. That same truck had so much mud and sunflower seed hulls on the floor it took almost an hour with a pressure washer to get down to the vinyl floor covering. That truck lasted me 14 years and as far as I know it is still on the road.
I’ve put over 325,000 miles on 5.3 and about 250k on another so can attest that they will last.
The biggest issue I had was the port for the oil pressure sending unit would get plugged with gunk and then the sending unit would not read adequate pressure and the alarm will go off. Mind you, I did change oil routinely.
The biggest issue I had was the port for the oil pressure sending unit would get plugged with gunk and then the sending unit would not read adequate pressure and the alarm will go off. Mind you, I did change oil routinely.
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
The engine that lasted 250 K never burned oil until I ran one rotation of Amsoil through it. Went from not using a drop between oil changes to burning a quart a thousand. Not saying ams caused it, but just saying.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Couple more from today. Fly home tomorrow
Sadly, my next business trip is in September and to Dallas. Nothing as slick as this trip
Sadly, my next business trip is in September and to Dallas. Nothing as slick as this trip
GM, all day long. I had a 2004 Silverado with a 5.3, a 2003 Tahoe with a 4.8, and a 1998 C1500 with a 4.3. All of them were rock solid.
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
Looks like that place has mostly gone to the dogs too.
No thanks, gas guzzling 2 port, the quad port cylinders are much more efficient.
I'm sure someone could utilize one to make more power, heck Joe put one on a 357, but fuel economy does matter when it comes to maximizing your average cut time.
Figured it was, but I've not heard of anyone doing it yet. The popup is easy, just remove a mm off the top to just inside the squish band and it's done. It gives the proper height to achieve good compression and power, without the difficulty starting that a higher compression saw usually has.Squareground already mentioned it, but yeah a domed 268 piston is a possibility. Really any piston is doable as long as there is enough material above the top ring groove.
At this point, I'd expect to know a little about porting and machining...I've thrown enough time and money at it.Even outside of the saws, I don't even remember how I lived before getting a lathe and a mill. They're really handy tools to have. I had no idea what I was missing out on until I got them.
For anyone that's interested in getting into modding saws, choose a saw that's easy to assemble/disassemble and has generous aftermarket support. Then buy about a dozen el cheapo chinesium cylinders and get to grinding. You won't unlock the true potential without machining capabilities, but there is a lot to be gained from working over the ports.
What's tight on them.
I've had no problems with most them, but the newer 271/291s can be a bit stingy on oiling the bar/chain.I have both pro and farm Stihls. I have found that even the 2nd tier farm saws kick husky @ss.
Most lines of huskys they have what I call their semi-pro line of saws, they are still mag case saws, but they don't have quite the power as the all out pro saws, then comes the farm ranch saws.
All things fair, I think most firewood guys could get by just fine with an ms250/251, or a husky 450, I've cut a lot of wood with the 450 and with the ms290/291, and cut beside plenty of guys running the 250/251. I really like the quick clip tops on the husky 450(same as the 353/346 and a few other huskys), makes it convenient to clean the filter and blow out under there. My buddy just got a husky 345 today, you can drop a 346xp cylinder, they run real well and are a bit lighter than a 346, but they can be subject to a bit higher maintenance, and they have standard screws for the top cover that I don't like.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
The 2 port saws were good in their day, but I like the modern cylinder layouts. Some claim they can get more power out of the old 2-ports, but I'm a fan of the front-fed transfers on the modern Stihls and Huskies. The transfers are all about speed rather than volume on them. Fairly efficient and they can be made to have big power. I can make a 461 run way stronger than a 460.
The only thing about doing a domed/tapered piston, is not getting too greedy and leaving the crown weak above the top ring land. I bump up the compression on virtually every saw with machining...to what degree depends on the saw. I often go with taller exhaust ports along with a smaller/tighter combustion chamber, the side benefit of that is that the added starting difficulty is negligible. That being said, I do have a couple of hard starters....my 066 has machine work done to it, as well as the timing advanced...OSHA-approved starting methods are just asking for your shoulder to be dislocated.
I also went with crazy high compression on one of my 044s, just to experiment, and that thing liked to break pull cords. I've since swapped to an easier-to-live-with top end.
I just thumbed through my saw "dope chart." He's probably fine...mine was .035" stock, a base gasket is .020", and a layer of Motoseal is probably good for .002-.003". So he's probably sitting at around .018" squish, .020-.025" is usually pretty optimum for a 70ish cc saw. That being said, you can run them tighter, my personal 400 is running .019" with a base gasket...it's probably not really a concern, but I do think of carbon build-up on really tight squish bands.
I respect both of you guys, but my observations have not been the same.
My 044 will run a long time and cut a lot of wood on a single tank of gas. I distinctly remember running it one day with a 28" B+C cutting large Oak and Hickory rounds and being surprised at the number I cut on a single tank of fuel. My admiration for the 462 is because they are lighter, smoother, have clean air filter tech and instant throttle response and are probably a bit faster in the cut.
I've also run several ported 461s at GTGs (usually the owners were gushing about them) but never felt like my ported 460 or Hybrid we second to them. In fact, in the 77cc saw competition at the Upstate NY GTG (all saws using the same B+C in a seasoned 16" White Oak cant) my Hybrid and 460 finished #1 + 2.
I'm sure there are faster saws out there, but I think properly ported 2 port saws are very competitive.
My 044 will run a long time and cut a lot of wood on a single tank of gas. I distinctly remember running it one day with a 28" B+C cutting large Oak and Hickory rounds and being surprised at the number I cut on a single tank of fuel. My admiration for the 462 is because they are lighter, smoother, have clean air filter tech and instant throttle response and are probably a bit faster in the cut.
I've also run several ported 461s at GTGs (usually the owners were gushing about them) but never felt like my ported 460 or Hybrid we second to them. In fact, in the 77cc saw competition at the Upstate NY GTG (all saws using the same B+C in a seasoned 16" White Oak cant) my Hybrid and 460 finished #1 + 2.
I'm sure there are faster saws out there, but I think properly ported 2 port saws are very competitive.
