Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Supposedly a sign on a trail in Alaska. I wanna know what caliber you use for the critter in the lower right corner.
View attachment 1055598

My dad claims to have run into one in the 80s. Lots of lore locally about them.

My dad only had a heritage 22 with him when ran into his Sasquatch.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Had to put down our older dog tonight, and since the ground is frozen 8’ deep decided the best way to deal with the body was to build a big fire and burn it.

So while keeping an eye on that I split some wood to bring up to the house.

We have all seen KK’s wheel barrow, but figured I’d share a pic of the wood sled we use to transport wood from the pile to the porch. With a little effort I can pull it righ up on the deck and park it next to the front door.

When it’s 40-50 below that last about a day, but in these nice above 0 temps I can get about 2-3 days out of a sled full.

 

[sean donato]

Thought maybe you guy's that scrounge wood, might share some of your scrounging methods with the seemingly growing crowd of newbie wood burners. From what I have been reading, they would be quite appreciative to hear how you score, and where you score. There is a lot of useful and interesting information scattered throughout the firewood forum. I thought it might be nice to share some of your experiences in one thread, for those who are just starting out and maybe those who are struggling a bit. Thanks to anyone who cares to share.

Stop scrounging now... taking all my free wood. just kidding. Its actually gotten harder to get free wood (around here) recently. Whenever fuel goes up everyone with a fireplace or old wood stove starts burning again. Or at least says they are. Getting in with a local logger, tree/landscaping company works for some. Power companies typically need somewhere to get rid of log loads and chunks. Only caveat I've found is they want to be able to turn around and off load easily in your driveway. Running the wanted/free adds can be a decent way to get wood as well. Just be awear of the idiots. Lots of people think they can get money for their yard tree and often it's a difficult drop that should be taken by the pros. Farmers can be a good resource as well, for years I cut at a farm basically till they decided to sell the other year. Best to be polite and clean up after yourself. Don't be that guy that brings the splitter with, no one wants to hear it and it takes up a lot of time. Found it best to either drag logs home, or buck up and pack it out. Best of luck.

First try of the 400C did not go well. Got my cutting rack set up and loaded with limbs then fueled and oiled the saw. Set master control lever to 'start' finding out that it takes a very firm push to get it to latch. Pull and only get one compression. After that one it felt like If I pulled any harder the cord would break. After a lot of one compression pulls Igave up and took the 60 mile round triop to the dealer. He showed me that it just takes a good firm pull. Fired right up. I tried it and no problem at all. I really didn't mind the trip all that much, wind was blowing pretty stiff and felt like it was coming off a glacier.

I did pick up a 25" skip tooth to replace the safety chain. I had forgotten to ask for one on it when I bought the saw.

Try number 2 in the morning. I'm not expecting any problems.

Squeeze the trigger before you flip it to the choke position, and yes the lever it a tad stiff to get the choke on. Normally it's 3 or 4 pulls to fire for me.

I really think the rope on that saw could be a tad shorter. My 400 is usually 4 pulls.

One pull hot starts...

 

[WoodAbuser]

Had to put down our older dog tonight, and since the ground is frozen 8’ deep decided the best way to deal with the body was to build a big fire and burn it.

So while keeping an eye on that I split some wood to bring up to the house.

We have all seen KK’s wheel barrow, but figured I’d share a pic of the wood sled we use to transport wood from the pile to the porch. With a little effort I can pull it righ up on the deck and park it next to the front door.

When it’s 40-50 below that last about a day, but in these nice above 0 temps I can get about 2-3 days out of a sled full.

View attachment 1055929

Very sorry to hear about your 4 legged friend. They always seem to find a way to get into your heart.

 

[farmer steve]

Squeeze the trigger before you flip it to the choke position, and yes the lever it a tad stiff to get the choke on. Normally it's 3 or 4 pulls to fire for me.

One pull hot starts...

Yes and yes. I did think mine was the only one with the stiff lever. The 261 and 462 slip into to choke position smoothly.

 

[bob kern]

Had to put down our older dog tonight, and since the ground is frozen 8’ deep decided the best way to deal with the body was to build a big fire and burn it.

So while keeping an eye on that I split some wood to bring up to the house.

We have all seen KK’s wheel barrow, but figured I’d share a pic of the wood sled we use to transport wood from the pile to the porch. With a little effort I can pull it righ up on the deck and park it next to the front door.

When it’s 40-50 below that last about a day, but in these nice above 0 temps I can get about 2-3 days out of a sled full.

View attachment 1055929

Sorry to hear about the pup. That's rough.

 

[JustJeff]

https://www.favermfg.com/F137 Features.htmLooks like an interesting splitter

 

[SS396driver]

How does one get ‘rocked’ by a 3.8?
those never even woke us up in Cali, lol

Just like it’s a dry heat your used to it

 

[SS396driver]

ribs were $1.77/# here at one grocery other day. i got a full slab....

looks good!

These were 1.99

how long did u cook the thighs? 225f ?

I cook at 250 to 275 takes about an hour and a half depending on the amount

 

[MustangMike]

On M-Tronic saws the down lever position is known as Start, not Choke (although it is similar). Also, there is no fast idle, so if you flood it, you may need someone to hold the trigger to get it to start.

Hold the trigger to get the lever to go down, then release the trigger (before letting up on the lever) to get the lever to stay down.

For re-starting a warm saw, leave it in the Run position (do not use Start, it will flood).

I don't like to use the compression relief for cold starts, but almost always use it for warm re-starts.

Using the compression relief on cold starts reduces how effective your impulse line works. You don't really need it on restarts as the saw is already pressurized.

Being pressurized is what allows the saw to run at any angle.

 

[farmer steve]

Can't teach an old dog new tricks Mike. The whole way down on the lever will always be the choke position.

 

[WoodAbuser]

On M-Tronic saws the down lever position is known as Start, not Choke (although it is similar). Also, there is no fast idle, so if you flood it, you may need someone to hold the trigger to get it to start.

Hold the trigger to get the lever to go down, then release the trigger (before letting up on the lever) to get the lever to stay down.

For re-starting a warm saw, leave it in the Run position (do not use Start, it will flood).

I don't like to use the compression relief for cold starts, but almost always use it for warm re-starts.

Using the compression relief on cold starts reduces how effective your impulse line works. You don't really need it on restarts as the saw is already pressurized.

Being pressurized is what allows the saw to run at any angle.

Can't teach an old dog new tricks Mike. The whole way down on the lever will always be the choke position.

Let's not get all choked up about it. Thanks Mustang for the explanation. I always thot that the M-tronic switch worked the same as the previous versions.

 

[MustangMike]

M-Tronic saws usually have just 3 positions - Start, Run and Stop and most of them don't stay in the Stop position (it automatically returns you to run). So, to start a warm saw just press in the compression relief and pull.

On a standard saw, after the saw "kicks" in the choke position, you put it on Fast Idle to start it. A M-Tronic saw will start and run (slowly) in the Start position, and if you have changed temperatures or elevation a lot (like when I go up to my property) it is a good idea to leave it run in Start for a few seconds before pulling the trigger (which automatically sends it to Run). This helps the computer adjust to the new conditions and will preclude you from stalling it out.

 

[chipper1]

it is a good idea to leave it run in Start for a few seconds before pulling the trigger (which automatically sends it to Run). This helps the computer

Never heard that before, is that some sort of a soft reset?

M-Tronic saws usually have just 3 positions

Not sure what models did not have the return to run feature, it seems all the early ones were that way, but I'm not sure. I'm a big fan of the return to run feature on the stihls and huskys alike. It saves a couple seconds during the day, but it can save a lot more frustration. On the older huskys and dolmars you can replace the standard switch with a momentary switch from a 540xp, it's a nice little upgrade for a 3 series saw. On the 70cc huskys 3 series saws and corresponding jreds you can use the clutch cover from a 572 and get the captive nuts. On the 346 and similar chassis saws you can use a clutch cover from a 455/460 rancher to get a nicer side tensioner.
I like many of the features on the newer saws, makes cutting much more efficient. Who likes trying to find a bar nut in the leaves or snow lol.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My bro-in-law has a TW with a 6 way and log lift mounted on his 3pt. We can processes some serious wood with that machine

I have the TW3HD,

Is that what he has??

SR

 

[JimR]

Had to put down our older dog tonight, and since the ground is frozen 8’ deep decided the best way to deal with the body was to build a big fire and burn it.

So while keeping an eye on that I split some wood to bring up to the house.

We have all seen KK’s wheel barrow, but figured I’d share a pic of the wood sled we use to transport wood from the pile to the porch. With a little effort I can pull it righ up on the deck and park it next to the front door.

When it’s 40-50 below that last about a day, but in these nice above 0 temps I can get about 2-3 days out of a sled full.

View attachment 1055929

Sorry about you losing your dog.

 

[turnkey4099]

On M-Tronic saws the down lever position is known as Start, not Choke (although it is similar). Also, there is no fast idle, so if you flood it, you may need someone to hold the trigger to get it to start.

Hold the trigger to get the lever to go down, then release the trigger (before letting up on the lever) to get the lever to stay down.

For re-starting a warm saw, leave it in the Run position (do not use Start, it will flood).

I don't like to use the compression relief for cold starts, but almost always use it for warm re-starts.

Using the compression relief on cold starts reduces how effective your impulse line works. You don't really need it on restarts as the saw is already pressurized.

Being pressurized is what allows the saw to run at any angle.

Cut up my limbs for a small load. Took a lot of cranking cold before it fired, one pull hot starts after that BUT after sitting about 20 minutes it took a lot of pulling and finally fired on "start" after more pulling. I guess it will take some experimentation on 'cool' starts. That is one cutting saw. Faster than any I have run in the past.

 

[GrizG]

M-Tronic saws usually have just 3 positions - Start, Run and Stop and most of them don't stay in the Stop position (it automatically returns you to run). So, to start a warm saw just press in the compression relief and pull.

On a standard saw, after the saw "kicks" in the choke position, you put it on Fast Idle to start it. A M-Tronic saw will start and run (slowly) in the Start position, and if you have changed temperatures or elevation a lot (like when I go up to my property) it is a good idea to leave it run in Start for a few seconds before pulling the trigger (which automatically sends it to Run). This helps the computer adjust to the new conditions and will preclude you from stalling it out.

I have 4 Stihl non M-Tronic saws... 170, 261, 461 and 661. The smaller three have 4 positions and Stop stays off. The 661 has a 4 position but Stop returns to Run. After running the 661 I keep forgetting to put the other saws on Run when warm and end up pulling multiple times until I remember to turn them on. It's annoying! That said, I like the return to run and wish they all had it!

 

[MustangMike]

Never heard that before, is that some sort of a soft reset?

As my saws frequently travel from my home (at about 500 feet) to my cabin (many miles NW and about 2,200 feet) I've just learned to do it this way. If you pull the trigger too soon when you have changed elevation, etc., the saw often just stalls out.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

So Arboristsite said if I become a supporting member. Less adds would be popping up! Hmmmmm! Maybe they didn't receive my payment yet!