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djg james

djg james

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I got the flywheel off. No impact wrench. Yes I checked the threads first. Right hand. I used a pair of channel locks on the shaft. I'm to this point now. I see the carb, muffler and magnet all have to come off. But I don't see any bolts holding the cylinder to the rest of the motor housing. Is it all built into one? The cylinder and the part with the shaft?

IMG_0642.jpg
 
djg james

djg james

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Thanks, that's definitely an option. After all, that's how I got the replacement engine. The point of me wanting to fix this one is a) it seemed to have more power than the replacement engine and b) to further my education and confidence on working on engines. I have a chain saw to work on and I was a little apprehensive tearing into it. I've always took my equipment to shops to work on, but several fell short of my expectations when they had my chainsaws. So I want to learn how to work on them myself.
As for the splitter, if this (original) engine is toast, then it becomes 'parts' for the replacement engine. It needs the pull cord replaced, missing bolts replace and possibly a new (used) air intake tube. I have all the parts or can find them. I just thought it was time to salvage the original engine.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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I got the flywheel off. No impact wrench. Yes I checked the threads first. Right hand. I used a pair of channel locks on the shaft. I'm to this point now. I see the carb, muffler and magnet all have to come off. But I don't see any bolts holding the cylinder to the rest of the motor housing. Is it all built into one? The cylinder and the part with the shaft?

View attachment 922167
You probably have to pull a cover off the bottom to get to the rod bearing caps.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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Thanks, that's definitely an option. After all, that's how I got the replacement engine. The point of me wanting to fix this one is a) it seemed to have more power than the replacement engine and b) to further my education and confidence on working on engines. I have a chain saw to work on and I was a little apprehensive tearing into it. I've always took my equipment to shops to work on, but several fell short of my expectations when they had my chainsaws. So I want to learn how to work on them myself.
As for the splitter, if this (original) engine is toast, then it becomes 'parts' for the replacement engine. It needs the pull cord replaced, missing bolts replace and possibly a new (used) air intake tube. I have all the parts or can find them. I just thought it was time to salvage the original engine.
There's a time to learn and a time to keep moving, it's up to you to figure out which time you are in :).
I also don't do any internal work on these small engines as they are readily available and I haven't found it worth my time. Typically I will only clean carbs, change filers and oil, and every now and then a spark plug on them. That being said, tearing the one down to get comfortable is not a bad thing if you have the time now.
 
djg james

djg james

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Unfortunately, I've got a lot of time on my hands. And it's kind of fun. i'm sure a lot of you cringe every time something breaks and you have to work on it. When I was a kind, I use to tear into things to see how they were made. Silly kid. I even got in trouble when I was 6? I tore into my sisters mechanical Christmas gift. But in my defense, no one ever told me to put it back together (lol).
I'm not going to spend a lot of time on this engine. I want to get down to the piston, so if you guys would be patient with me, I'd appreciate it.

I've got all the bolts out of the sump pan, but am having a little trouble getting it off. Any ideas? No I don't have a puller of some sort.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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Unfortunately, I've got a lot of time on my hands. And it's kind of fun. i'm sure a lot of you cringe every time something breaks and you have to work on it. When I was a kind, I use to tear into things to see how they were made. Silly kid. I even got in trouble when I was 6? I tore into my sisters mechanical Christmas gift. But in my defense, no one ever told me to put it back together (lol).
I'm not going to spend a lot of time on this engine. I want to get down to the piston, so if you guys would be patient with me, I'd appreciate it.

I've got all the bolts out of the sump pan, but am having a little trouble getting it off. Any ideas? No I don't have a puller of some sort.
Then it sounds like a good time to learn.
Seems most times we have money or time, both together, not so much :(.
Pic of the bottom. Many times just a good tap with a rubber hammer, other times the gasket material needs to be cut.
 
djg james

djg james

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Here's the bottom. Next to the bolt at the bottom in theIMG_0644.jpg 5:00 position there appears to be a bolt. But from the top side, there is no head and it doesn't appear to be a Allen screw. Could it just be an alignment pin? By the narrow end of the muffler? No need for two bolts so close together.

I've got yard work to do now, so I won't be working on it any more today. This afternoon, I'm goint to get the replacement engine going so I can split tomorrow.

Thanks everyone.
 
sean donato

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Here's the bottom. Next to the bolt at the bottom in theView attachment 922177 5:00 position there appears to be a bolt. But from the top side, there is no head and it doesn't appear to be a Allen screw. Could it just be an alignment pin? By the narrow end of the muffler? No need for two bolts so close together.

I've got yard work to do now, so I won't be working on it any more today. This afternoon, I'm goint to get the replacement engine going so I can split tomorrow.

Thanks everyone.
There should be 2 dowel in the cover, they should be the bumps you are referring to. There should also be pry tabs to pop the cover off. They will be little and have a slight gap between the cover and block. Be gentle it's easy to bust them off. Oh take the key out of the crank before you pop the cover off. Normally a good hit or 4 from a dead blow helps knock them loose. For what its worth harbor freight has vertical shaft engines as well. And what your working on isn't any better quality.
 
Cowboy254

Cowboy254

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It feels like the end of an era..... My good friend the ickle ms180 is off to it's new owner. Sold in eBay for £121. I think with the chains I've had for it I only spent about £210 on it in total. £90 and it's cut probably 22 cords.

I felt a bit the same when I sold my first saw, the MS310 mebbe 4 years ago. I bought it and my trailer on the same day (car needed new tyres). Here it was back in the day along with the scrounge vehicle :rock:. And newish son.

Angus and trailer 003.jpg

Angus and trailer 001.jpg
 
djg james

djg james

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Well I got the pan off without too much trouble. Before I got it completely off, I heard a 'tink' as if something fell out. I'm working in an oil pan and I couldn't find anything. So I'm guessing it just the assembly (oil splash?) on the shaft dropping out of position. What is the correct position for it when reassembling? Also, what's the purpose of the wire thing sticking up on the left? Lastly, I'm guessing I remove the two bolts holding the piston arm on the rocker (name?). then I can pull the shaft out. With the shaft out of the way, I ought to be able to piston arm and piston out from the left. Right?
ThanksIMG_0650.jpg
 
djg james

djg james

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Now SWITCHING gears, I worked on the REPLACEMENT splitter engine today also. The intake manifold was cracked as suspected. I had JB Welded it previously. I now have a couple of scrap engines I ought to be able to salvage one from. The cord broke and I may have a spare hood that fits too. Worst case, I rewind it. Never done that, but I think you'd have to rewind the spring and then tie on the cord.

Lastly, the carb has always been mounted by the one screw on the left (I left the screw in so I wouldn't loose it). With the vibrations of a running engine, it would always loosen up. The other matching hole, I thought, was never drilled and tapped at the factory. See the hole on the right just below the opening of the intake manifold in the picture. Yet the back side of the carb flange shows some wear like it was mounted at some point in time. So I guess a mechanic broke it off. I could drill a small hole in the steel bolt and try an small easy out if I had one. But I may just used an undersized drill bit and then tap the hole for a 1/4"x20 bolt. Any suggestions?

IMG_0649.jpg
 
LondonNeil

LondonNeil

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piston arm = con rod.
rocker = crank?
yes unbolt con rod, lift out the crank, pull out the piton. if you'r doing the job properly replace the big end bearings, replace the crank shaft bushings, replace the little end bearings (remove circlip, pull out gudgeon pin to release con rod from piston)
 
djg james

djg james

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piston arm = con rod.
rocker = crank?
yes unbolt con rod, lift out the crank, pull out the piton. if you'r doing the job properly replace the big end bearings, replace the crank shaft bushings, replace the little end bearings (remove circlip, pull out gudgeon pin to release con rod from piston)
Thanks for correcting my terminology. It's easier to convey what I'm talking about if I use the right terms.
 
Tony ray

Tony ray

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