Several Q's: double bars, max bar width using MS660, and skip chains

[zdinks]

I currently mill with a MS660 on a 36" bar. I am getting hired to mill several logs in the upper 40" width range (ash, american elm, and red oak). I have a cannon double bar picked out and plan on using just the single saw with a helper handle for the time being (will also use an auxiliary oiler). I'll go as easy possible on the saw and will be using the grandberg winch for consistency. Is it a bad idea to mill a few logs with my 660 that are that wide? I want to use a chain with some level of skip. Can someone provide a link to the right skip tooth chain (0.063)? I can't seem to find much on different skip chains.

 

[andy]

That’s pretty wide.
I’ve run a 62” bar through 48” maple but that was with a 3120.
@SeMoTony runs a 661 with long bars.
He seems to do really well. That’s more comparable to a 661.
A tip oiler is a must.

As to skip.
I run full chisel full skip with the factory top plate grind on a 36” bar for softwood (hem, cedar, western maple).
It’s smoother than expected and easier to sharpen... other than that is it easier on the saw?.... hard to tell with the woods we have here.

 

[zdinks]

That’s pretty wide.
I’ve run a 62” bar through 48” maple but that was with a 3120.
@SeMoTony runs a 661 with long bars.
He seems to do really well. That’s more comparable to a 661.
A tip oiler is a must.

As to skip.
I run full chisel full skip with the factory top plate grind on a 36” bar for softwood (hem, cedar, western maple).
It’s smoother than expected and easier to sharpen... other than that is it easier on the saw?.... hard to tell with the woods we have here.

After doing a bit of digging in to threads on here looks like I should go with a full skip. @SeMoTony what is your setup? What are your thoughts on mine and who is the best supplier of full skip (online)?

Thanks ahead of time!

 

[rarefish383]

I think using a winch is counter intuitive to you saying go easy on it. I use a 660 with 36" on mostly Oak. I would have no problem going with a bigger bar. But, with my 36" I can get 3-4 slabs of a 25-30 in Oak 7 1/2' long, before it starts to slow down in the cut, and needs a touch up on the chain. I can tell this because I feel it. If you are using a winch you don't feel any thing. By the time it gets hard to crank the winch, you way are past the take it easy on it point.

 

[zdinks]

I think using a winch is counter intuitive to you saying go easy on it. I use a 660 with 36" on mostly Oak. I would have no problem going with a bigger bar. But, with my 36" I can get 3-4 slabs of a 25-30 in Oak 7 1/2' long, before it starts to slow down in the cut, and needs a touch up on the chain. I can tell this because I feel it. If you are using a winch you don't feel any thing. By the time it gets hard to crank the winch, you way are past the take it easy on it point.

I haven't used the winch yet, but I'd assume with a bit of experience with it, you could start to understand the comparable stress on the saw. In other words, I will go extra easy and slow using the winch, until I get a feel for it.

Thanks,

 

[kimosawboy]

I have three mills but I prettywell only use the larger one for most everything. On that mill I do have a winch and I find that I can feel the knots easily enough and also when the chain is getting dull. The winch rope does have some stretch to it but very minimal.
Zdinks, if your going to be milling for days on end , your saw should be able to handle it.. Keep your saw tuned up , sharp sharp chains (buy a bar mounted saw sharpener or a bench grinder), you can usually see or smell that your saw is not happy before really bad things happen.

 

[zdinks]

I have three mills but I prettywell only use the larger one for most everything. On that mill I do have a winch and I find that I can feel the knots easily enough and also when the chain is getting dull. The winch rope does have some stretch to it but very minimal.
Zdinks, if your going to be milling for days on end , your saw should be able to handle it.. Keep your saw tuned up , sharp sharp chains (buy a bar mounted saw sharpener or a bench grinder), you can usually see or smell that your saw is not happy before really bad things happen.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I do have a bar mounted electric sharpener. That thing is an absolute must for milling!

 

[MGoodwin]

I think I posted about milling some redwood back in Oct or Nov of 2018, but I run a pair of 066's on a double ended bar (66" long, 48" cut capacity) with great success, granted I'm on the west coast cutting soft woods (doug fir, big leaf maple, etc). I've only run full comp thus far. As for winch I am a big advocate as its much easier/ergonomic. I run paracord which has some elasticity to it which I really like as it does 90% of the pulling, but offers some compliance for when I hit knots or what have you. To help with the "feel" while winching, I run the cord through a small pulley staked out beyond end of log to get a 2:1 advantage.

 

[csmillingnoob]

I sometimes run a 42" on my Husq 390xp which has a bit less power than your 660. It doesn't like the winch. I can winch a 28' bar smoothly, or a 36" adequately. However, the saw bogs when I winch pecan logs 28 inches and larger. I just don't have the feel of the saw when winching - when to go for it vs when to ease off. Indeed I have to do a bit of "gentle seesawing" when I get above 28 inches.

It could be the wood. It's pretty doggone hard. I haven't tried any oak that large - yet.

Definitely skip chain. Pulls out the chips better and half the sharpening. I have to admit that I round file my full chisel. I've got square file chisel on my to-do list but can't truly say that I have mastered round filing yet. Pretty good, but not a master yet.

 

[Brent Nowell]

I mill as well and I have to say that with my 36” it is a one man job. Point being the extra helper handle and winch is just extra weight. If you are lugging gear into the bush like myself every trip you make matters.
I would like to try full skip myself, it will absolutely be easier on the saw and will cut down on heat on the chain, but as usually there is a cost. The cost I’m told is finish qaulity and if you are finishing these boards on a plane it is just that much more work when you have the washboard going on.
I have never tried full skip on my 36 for milling but this is what I was told would happen.

since you have a bench grinder I think staying with full comp may be the way to go, as it’s not a ton of work with a tool like that to do full comp.

You picked a great saw for that size bar though, that really is just what you want for a killing setup, especially if your just getting into it. Your not gonna want to upgrade for a while