Sharpening chain and efficiency?

[Dennisthemenace]

Nice arvo here in SE Australia so I did the test. 66 dl 3/8 full skip stumping chain ie 22 somewhat damaged cutters. 4 strokes each (a couple needed 5 strokes) nice comfy vice set up, big swig of beer in the middle of the job = 2 Min 56 secs, say 180 secs or about 9 to 10 secs per Cutter. On the ground, between your knees I'd say 15 secs per Cutter. Depends on how finicky you want to be. What I do know is that in the bush, 77 dl full comp 404
plus a few gulps of water, plus fuelling up and that is smoko done with.

 

[HumBurner]

I can generally sharpen a 20" in 15-25 minutes. Depends on factors such as stroke count, whether the gullet needs a touch, if the top plate has to be corrected due to damage, climatic conditions (if in the field), how sore or not my hands and fingers are, and so on.

When sharpening at home, i often take longer cause i like to look at each tooth and see if an extra lick is needed or if a depth needs a lick. Tap out and wipe files every few strokes. Takes a minute to set the saw up in the vice and with the jig.


Cant stand having them ground. Lose a lot of unnecessary metal and often they are harder to sharpen again afterward.

 

[Del_]

Here's my winter time by the wood stove hand filed chain sharpening set up.

The 3X magnifiers make a huge difference for me. I can see the fines flying off of the file and chain. I tap the file after each tooth and can see those fines fly, too.

In this photo I'm square filing and am no speed demon, for sure.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Here's my winter time by the wood stove hand filed chain sharpening set up.

The 3X magnifiers make a huge difference for me. I can see the fines flying off of the file and chain. I tap the file after each tooth and can see those fines fly, too.

In this photo I'm square filing and am no speed demon, for sure.

View attachment 927535View attachment 927536View attachment 927538

Nailing that square file Del, what a great job. Great idea with the dental mirror!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I can generally sharpen a 20" in 15-25 minutes. Depends on factors such as stroke count, whether the gullet needs a touch, if the top plate has to be corrected due to damage, climatic conditions (if in the field), how sore or not my hands and fingers are, and so on.

When sharpening at home, i often take longer cause i like to look at each tooth and see if an extra lick is needed or if a depth needs a lick. Tap out and wipe files every few strokes. Takes a minute to set the saw up in the vice and with the jig.


Cant stand having them ground. Lose a lot of unnecessary metal and often they are harder to sharpen again afterward.

Can you actually tell any difference in the cut between your filing when in the bush compared to your home filing?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Nice arvo here in SE Australia so I did the test. 66 dl 3/8 full skip stumping chain ie 22 somewhat damaged cutters. 4 strokes each (a couple needed 5 strokes) nice comfy vice set up, big swig of beer in the middle of the job = 2 Min 56 secs, say 180 secs or about 9 to 10 secs per Cutter. On the ground, between your knees I'd say 15 secs per Cutter. Depends on how finicky you want to be. What I do know is that in the bush, 77 dl full comp 404
plus a few gulps of water, plus fuelling up and that is smoko done with.

hope all is well in SE Aussi!

 

[LoneOak]

Well done Del_!

 

[J D]

I can generally sharpen a 20" in 15-25 minutes. Depends on factors such as stroke count, whether the gullet needs a touch, if the top plate has to be corrected due to damage, climatic conditions (if in the field), how sore or not my hands and fingers are, and so on.

When sharpening at home, i often take longer cause i like to look at each tooth and see if an extra lick is needed or if a depth needs a lick. Tap out and wipe files every few strokes. Takes a minute to set the saw up in the vice and with the jig.


Cant stand having them ground. Lose a lot of unnecessary metal and often they are harder to sharpen again afterward.

I think whoever has been grinding your chain is a bit heavy handed... Other than that I completely agree with everything you've mentioned

 

[HumBurner]

Can you actually tell any difference in the cut between your filing when in the bush compared to your home filing?

More often than not, yes.

It depends on the surface and slope im sharpening on compared to the mostly flat wooden table at home.

I dont care for stump vises. Many jobs are away from the trucks, meaning less stability for sharpening. Also the level at which the saw can be "held", as well as the angle of the bar, determine what is more or less comfortable for the body.

I think whoever has been grinding your chain is a bit heavy handed... Other than that I completely agree with everything you've mentioned

That is possible. Ive had three different shops grind chains at different times. Pretty consistent results where the next couple sharpenings are harder on the same file previously used. It takes a pretty bad chain for me to take it in, anyways.

 

[CNYCountry]

I got so I could get what I would call acceptable results in about 20 minutes on 72 drivers of full comp. But I am probably to the point of obsessive-compulsive about it. I genuinely think the standards I hold myself when sharpening chains gets me to at least as good but probably better than factory (safe, smooth, fast) and I was at least spot checking the length of my cutters with a micrometer, so take what I say with a grain of salt I guess, it's probably a little overboard. That said, here's my rant on what I've found over the last 15 years, I got sick of it taking 20-30 minutes. I know this goes against the grain of the "you can only get sharp chains with a file" camp: https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...decent-chainsaw-sharpener.352352/post-7556407. I have at least 5-10 sharp chains for any of my saws except the big one at any given time and just swap them.

 

[sean donato]

Ah 20" and 24" I sharpen in the field mostly. Never timed it, but I'd guess in the 10 to 15 minuet range for the 20" and about 20 ish minutes for the 24" both full comp, normally just 3 passes per cutter, fuel, oil, and go. I don't mess with the depth gauges in the woods. Every few days out with normal hand filing (normally just a touch up, rocked chains get swapped dont have that kind of free time in the woods) the chain will get brought back with the grinder, or a nice bench session with the file at the house. I do think I get better results at the house, but never had an issue getting up and cutting again. Gullet work is done at the house as well. Typically with the grinder if I'm being honest. Makes quick work of it. I infrequently run my 36" bar out of the mill, and that takes forever to touch up a full comp chain for wood use. The chain (s) I mill with don't seem to take too long, one of them is skip tooth and doesn't take long at all.

 

[J D]

Ive had three different shops grind chains at different times. Pretty consistent results where the next couple sharpenings are harder on the same file previously used. It takes a pretty bad chain for me to take it in, anyways.

There's quite a knack to using a grinder well... I can take as little off with a grinder as by hand. I sharpen with multiple light touches, it's not quite as fast but also doesn't heat the cutter up nearly as much so no tempering of the metal.
Unfortunately, given that labour is expensive & sharpening a chain needs to cost less than buying a new one, the job usually goes to the least experienced person in the shop... & the results are generally as you describe

 

[Townie]

Nice pics Del.
For me, from putting it in the vise to removing it, one beer.

 

[Husky77]

I'm too old to worry about how long it takes to sharpen a chain, I'm under no pressure I just take my time and enjoy it