Sharpening Guides

[rufcut]

I'm just trin' to keep my chains sharp. I bought a Grandburg "Precision" grinder, only to find meant an off center shaft. So now I'm looking to file my chains sharp.
Is it better to eyeball it or is a "Precision Guide" a good investment (and which one)?
I've been using a Dremel flex shaft at a low speed by eye and the chain seems to cut better than when dull!

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy,

I assure you , you are better off to learn how to file the chain rather than trying to sharpen with these various "got your money" tools. A simple flat style file guide is my recommendation for beginning, and then once you see what the cutters are supposed to look like and have a feel for how the file is supposed to fit, then go free hand.

It is faster to file, and the chain cuts better, longer.

If I can help, I will. Give your chain model numbers and I might be able to give some advice. Basically, it will be to follow the manufacturer's recomendation for file size, and then make your cutters look like the illustration!

Regards,
Walt Galer

 

[rufcut]

Walt, thanks for your reply. I have 3 saws and one on the way. I have a Pro Mac 55 that has a 25 stamped on the cutter links, and a 378 stamped on the drive links. I think this is a .325 pitch, but I'm guessing.
I also have a 357xp which is a 3/8 - .050 (Chain # 608100102).
The third is a Homelite 4550, and I don't have the chain with me for the number.
On the way is a 046 Stihl, and I'm assuming it is also a 3/8" - .050(?).
I am just a fire wood cutter, so I think I will probley be cutting with chippers.
I am new to the arboristSite but have read back for 100 days and can not tell you you how much I (and I think everyone) appreciates the information you give us.
Thanks, Manuel

 

[Walkerized]

Hi Husqvarna markets a kit with 2 files.raker file.raker guage, file handle and a file jig. the jig goes right on to the chain between the rivets. It has 2 rollars on either side and it works real well. Have switched several of our pro fallers to this and they are loving it.

Try your local Husky dealer and they should have it and if they cant give me a ring and i can get you the part # for you and then see if they can get it for you.

John W

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Rufcut I agree with these guys. Get the Husky filer and learn the angles and get used to using a hand file. Then go freehand after some experience and you will be very happy with the results.

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy Rufcut'

It sounds like all your chains are 3/8 pitch, the McCulloch one is a branded Oregon. All will require a 7/32" file. That makes it easy. Now see if you can come up with a filing instruction sheet from the local dealer. Often there is one on the back of the chain loop boxes. You need an illustration of a correctly shaped cutter of the type you wish to file. There are two basic types of sawchain around, the ones with a slightly round working corner on the cutters, and the ones that are square, that is to say flat across the top, and intersecting with a flat sideplate, with very little or no radius obvious between the two.

The round corner cutter type is called semichisel, and the square one is chisel. They are filed slightly different. On the semichisel you hold the file level across the chain at a 35 degree angle to the centerline. On the chisel you hold the handle of the file down 10 to 15 degrees, and the angle across the top comes out at 30 degrees. It is easier to make them look right as compared to an illustration, than to worry about how many degrees!

When filing, file with your forearm in a straight line with the file so you stroke with a nice straight pendulum-like stroke, lightly and smoothly. No wiggle. (It is not necessary to rotate the file as you stroke. The spiral of the teeth takes care of the shedding of chips). Keep your file clean and dry, free of oil or dirt. Don't touch the teeth, or the oil off your fingers will cause it to load up and/or rust. Wipe the file off by rotating it in a clean rag if it needs cleanning. (I usually just wipe mine on my jeans!) After three or four filings, you need to reset your depthgauges. That requires a different file guide that is inexpensive. This restores the bite the cutter can take.

Be sure to file your chain before it becomes totally uselessly dull and/or damaged. Sharpening from wood dull condition is easy and only takes a stroke or two. Trying to restore a damaged chain is difficult and if it hit a rock or metal, it may be impossible, as the cutters will be work hardened harder than the file. The secret is to file often and lightly. You get far longer life out of your chain and it is less work.

Regards,
Walt Galer

 

[Whistler]

What works for some does not work for others...I was at one of our local Husky dealers and I asked their service tech show me how easy the new ' double file system ' worked and was unimpressed , however, it may work easier than he made it look! What works for me are the Stihl file holders , #5605 750 4328 with the 3/16 file for 325 chain , and the # 5605 750 4326 with 7/32 file for 3/8 chain. I only ever sharpen clean chain by means of wiping it down or just making a clean cut and killing the saw . I use blackboard chalk on my files (so they dont plug up so easily) and every 10 or so sharpenings I use a dial caliper to make sure the cutters are within .005 (or so). The dial calipers will allow you to get the 'feel' of how much you're stroke is removing . For the rakers I use the Carlton file-o-plate , and do so even on a new chain before it is used . One would be amazed the difference in height of the rakers on a new chain ............It works for me .