Sharpening stones for Dremel

[Pioneer]

Tried these out the other day, some sharpening stones from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0828NJQT7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Pretty happy with them, I've done an 18 and a 20 inch chain with one bit so far, and it's still cutting fast. I'm using the second lowest speed on my Dremel and a fairly light pressure. The tooth stays cold during sharpening, you can comfortably steady the tooth with a finger as you're sharpening it. Picture of one of the teeth after its first touch up, and the amount of wear on the stone after 2 chains.
The thing I like about these coated bits over stones is you can get a much more precise shape because they don't change their diameter as they wear.
The only criticism I have is that the bit material is soft steel and is easily bent. The first bit I tried had runout, but it was easily straightened so this may not be such a bad thing.

 

[Philbert]

Do you know what abrasive material the bits are coated with?

Several years ago, Left Coast Supplies was offering some ABN (similar to CBN) coated bits which worked and held up pretty well. Not sure if anyone else sells them now.

(That thread, describing the bits, may have been deleted).

Philbert

 

[Pioneer]

Made from chinesium? Who knows, might be be CBN, they seem to hold up ok. The reviews have some people complaining they don't hold up, I suspect they're overheating them and the adhesive is letting go. I've used a different one before, not this brand, it's useful life was about as good as a regular stone. What was nice about it after it was well worn, it became like an extra fine grit stone and you could really polish the sawtooth to get it razor sharp.

 

[livemusic]

Made from chinesium? Who knows, might be be CBN, they seem to hold up ok. The reviews have some people complaining they don't hold up, I suspect they're overheating them and the adhesive is letting go. I've used a different one before, not this brand, it's useful life was about as good as a regular stone. What was nice about it after it was well worn, it became like an extra fine grit stone and you could really polish the sawtooth to get it razor sharp.

Then why didn't you continue to use the other brand?

It's interesting you are using a Dremel low setting, I did the opposite, I am using my Dremel's fastest! LOL, maybe I should slow it down? I have tried to use a light touch. But early on, I noticed the tooth getting way too hot, so, that oughta tell me something. I will try low speed. I am using Oregon stone bits. I have tried off-brand from Oregon but I have gotten some where the bit just breaks if you put any pressure on it. I have had better luck with Oregon. I also have tried to lighten my touch. Still searching for best technique. I like your idea of your type of bit, and it not changing its shape like the stone ones do as they wear. That seems it would cause a problem!

 

[Philbert]

@Grandedog ?

Philbert

 

[gggGary]

The stihl stones clamp in the dremel just fine once you go in past the thread. IMHO they last better than the oregons at speed two on my dremel. 4-5 28" chain sharpenings? I keep a spritzer bottle of mineral spirits on my work benches and use it if oil causes a stone to plug up with metal. Should prolly start spritzing chains a bit before I sharpen.

 

[link]

Tried these out the other day, some sharpening stones from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0828NJQT7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Pretty happy with them, I've done an 18 and a 20 inch chain with one bit so far, and it's still cutting fast. I'm using the second lowest speed on my Dremel and a fairly light pressure. The tooth stays cold during sharpening, you can comfortably steady the tooth with a finger as you're sharpening it. Picture of one of the teeth after its first touch up, and the amount of wear on the stone after 2 chains.
The thing I like about these coated bits over stones is you can get a much more precise shape because they don't change their diameter as they wear.
The only criticism I have is that the bit material is soft steel and is easily bent. The first bit I tried had runout, but it was easily straightened so this may not be such a bad thing.

View attachment 1004695View attachment 1004696

Barking up the wrong tree buddy.

 

[cdherman]

Dunno. I tried the diamond stones a few years ago. The diamonds are just on the surface and after a couple chains, they stopped working. I can get Forester stones (inferior to Oregon, but cheaper, IMHO) for a buck a throw at Menards. Amazon is asking almost $3 a stone for the diamond ones.

But maybe these are better. To the OP, please post back after you've used these at least twice as long as a regular stone and then tell us your feelings!

On the topic of diameter, I have to agree that the stones wear down. I seldom break them anymore, as I have grown more patient through the years. But once they are undersized, you have to chuck em'. And the reason I say Forester is lower quality, I swear Forester are sometimes undersized from the beginning. And they break easier than Oregon.

 

[Pioneer]

3 chains on one so far, still cutting fine. Doesn't take much time to touch up a chain, a rocked one where you might have to take off a lot of metal might be a different story. A machine with a wheel is where that should be sharpened. Might be a while before its worn out at the amount of use it sees just doing touch-ups. I've also tried out the smaller size for low profile chain, it works just as well. The key seems to be holding the Dremel speed down to prevent heat buildup.

 

[cdherman]

Touch up versus a buggered up chain. Good question. Could be the stones versus diamond have a role??

I sharpen lots of stuff. There are stones for various purposes. Heavy damage requires course stones followed by a finer hone.

Perhaps I'll try the diamond again. Too bad the Amazon link currently has no 3/16" available.

 

[aokpops]

Had good luck with diamond stones and honing oil. I run full speed with a lite touch. Watch how you shim a Dremal ! over the years I bought 3 heads. The small chain no shims 3.25 1 shim 3.8 2 shims I never like changing back and forth I do a little twist I flip it forward to go deep bring it back to finish years ago Carlton had information on a sharp chain . There were saying only 2 things causes a bad sharping you have to much hook or slop. What that amouts to no matter what tool you use get the right height. The Carlton file o plate was a great tool

 

[aokpops]

Tried these out the other day, some sharpening stones from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0828NJQT7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Pretty happy with them, I've done an 18 and a 20 inch chain with one bit so far, and it's still cutting fast. I'm using the second lowest speed on my Dremel and a fairly light pressure. The tooth stays cold during sharpening, you can comfortably steady the tooth with a finger as you're sharpening it. Picture of one of the teeth after its first touch up, and the amount of wear on the stone after 2 chains.
The thing I like about these coated bits over stones is you can get a much more precise shape because they don't change their diameter as they wear.
The only criticism I have is that the bit material is soft steel and is easily bent. The first bit I tried had runout, but it was easily straightened so this may not be such a bad thing.

View attachment 1004695View attachment 1004696

I always get pictures of chain from the inside that tell nothing there is no telling of a hook or slop. I will try and get a picture up