Signs That Your Chain Is Sharp (Or Dull)?

[Backstage]

No, there’s no easy test because it’s not a single factor. The OP’s example may be someone who genuinely DOES have a sharp chain, but the rakers never got touched.

No, it’s not rocket science. Yes, you have to teach it top to bottom. Yes, if you’re too dumb to learn it, you shouldn’t be cutting.

I found the 2-1 tools to be the best “training wheels” teaching system. Combine with a black marker on the gullet, and it’s not hard to demonstrate how much to take off, what angle to do it, etc.

 

[thenne1713]

Yesterday we were working on a 20" green red oak blow down. I had a second saw, a Husky 345 (45cc) and both had 16" B&C. At the end of the session I handed him the Husky and asked him to make the last cut.

Obviously this was bar buried from one side. After he finished I asked him if he noticed any difference. He said that the chain seemed "grabbier" and suggested "different" sharpening than the chain on his saw. I said that the difference was that the chain on the Husky was sharp and his wasn't. I also pointed out the HP difference between the two saws. In retrospect we should have had a contest between the two saws.

It can be amazing to see how many do not know, and do not own gage to file rakers. The STIHL 2N1 FILE ($40) that files rakers at same time is highly recommended, esp. for casual homeowner. But you do not clarify 2nd saw size, or whether either using safety chain, too?

 

[sean donato]

Rakers arnt used on modern chains, depth gauges are.....

 

[vtfireman85]

A sharp cutter will catch on their fingernail. Dull will slide across it.

Just to clarify, you check that with the saw shut off?

 

[vtfireman85]

Teaching a total neophyte is easier than teaching someone who has been doing it wrong for 30 years. My FIL is a dull chain user. Not only can i not convince him to keep the bar out of the dirt, i cant seem to coerce him to properly sharpen the thing. He knows a better way, productivity and effectiveness doesn’t seem to be enough evidence to support my argument.

 

[HansFranz]

Any indicator can yield a false positive or negative...

Well, except actually putting the saw into the wood.

If it cuts fast, it's sharp! If not, it ain't!

 

[HansFranz]

A sharp cutter will catch on their fingernail. Dull will slide across it.

Just to clarify, you check that with the saw shut off?

Naw, WFO throttle with a hose clamp around the trigger, of course!

 

[Squareground3691]

Sharp chain , should be able to lay the bar on the log with one hand crack the throttle and with no effort the bar should sink into the wood , if it doesn’t it’s not sharp enough, more saws die an early death because if dull chain and anything else.

 

[Philbert]

Well, except actually putting the saw into the wood.
If it cuts fast, it's sharp! If not, it ain't!

Sharp chain , should be able to lay the bar on the log with one hand crack the throttle and with no effort the bar should sink into the wood , if it doesn’t it’s not sharp enough, . . .

Depends whether you consider “sharp“ an objective term, or a relative term.

Chains can be optimized for different species of wood (hard, soft, etc.), different wood conditions (green, dried, frozen, dirty, punky, etc.), type of saw, and other factors.

A chain that cuts aggressively on a high powered saw might lug a lower power saw. A ‘race’ filed chain might have a very short working life between sharpenings.

Any of these ‘sharp’ chains could be disappointing, or inappropriate, in the wrong setting.

Based on the OP’s focus on newer sawyers, I’m sticking with the basics, before fine tuning for specific situations. They should have ‘signs’ that they can refer to while sharpening, in addition to performance testing.

Philbert

 

[Squareground3691]

Depends whether you consider “sharp“ an objective term, or a relative term.

Chains can be optimized for different species of wood (hard, soft, etc.), different wood conditions (green, dried, frozen, dirty, punky, etc.), type of saw, and other factors.

A chain that cuts aggressively on a high powered saw might lug a lower power saw. A ‘race’ filed chain might have a very short working life between sharpenings.

Any of these ‘sharp’ chains could be disappointing, or inappropriate, in the wrong setting.

Based on the OP’s focus on newer sawyers, I’m sticking with the basics, before fine tuning for specific situations. They should have ‘signs’ that they can go by while sharpening, in addition to performance testing.

Philbert

The latter term

 

[HarleyT]

After I show them the shapes that should be achieved, I stress heavily that all of the damaged cutter material must be removed.

Many just put a file mark on damaged metal, and it might seem sharp the first log or so, but for any decent results, the damage must go.

 

[Squareground3691]

After I show them the shapes that should be achieved, I stress heavily that all of the damaged cutter material must be removed.

Many just put a file mark on damaged metal, and it might seem sharp the first log or so, but for any decent results, the damage must go.

Square filed and Round getting proficient with round first the go to square if ur ability and use calls for it .

 

[HumBurner]

Holy crap it aint rocket science if it throws larger chips its sharp if it throws powder its dull .

May not be rocket science, but it doesn't sound like he's teaching groups of rocket scientists, either.

 

[Squareground3691]

May not be rocket science, but it doesn't sound like he's teaching groups of rocket scientists, either.

Unfortunately there’s many lacking common sense, and that’s something that’s hard to teach.

 

[HansFranz]

A chain that cuts aggressively on a high powered saw might lug a lower power saw.

Well, if our budding junior rocket surgeons encounter this situation, I would advise them to "jam it into the sand fast!" to dull that too-sharp chain!

Then it'll cut faster! (Golly, how often does THAT happen to a jackleg chainsaw sharpener?)

You'd think we were trying to teach people eyeball surgery or quantum mechanics.

It doesn't need to be this flogging complicated, FFS.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I remember teaching some of my fellow maintenance workers about depth guages/ rakers .
As per humanity some thought more must be BETTER! Well they were sorry and ruined 2 or 3 chains .
It should be noted an MS250 doesn't like the rakers set 050 .
Anyway Philbert is right , teaching the concept is the important part and explaining why you only drop the depth to 25-30 for various cutting. Its absolutely miserable to stall the saw on every cut.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Although common sense might be a rare commodity these days , confidence is sorely lacking in our younger generation now, its one thing to be stupid, but scared and stupid is dangerous.
By teaching someone just the basics and techniques they gain some confidence and get better at the skill with informed knowledge.
I know plenty of blow hards who couldn't find their A$$ with both hands and a map , ego is a poor excuse for confidence.

 

[Bubster]

Put the same chain that is eating 6 inch wood like it is nothing into a 14 inch block. That is one way to check. A very sharp chain can also be very dull in that situation just because it was not filed evenly.Also the same chain that is throwing 3 inch long chips in poplar might throw fine dust in locust. Honestly,the saw will tell you when it is dull. Just takes some folks awhile to figure it out.

 

[sean donato]

One of the very first chain sharpening screw ups I did was after I got my grinder. Had a bunch of little pines to take down.... watched this video where the guy said he takes the depth gauges clean off whenever he was in pine. I'm game. Went over to the grinder tossed a half spent chain in it. Cleaned the depth gauges down to near chain level. Yeah that chain stayed on after the first attempt at a cut for like a millisecond.... I may drop them own to .050" on the 390xp or 394xp but that's it.

 

[vizette]

As per humanity some thought more must be BETTER! Well they were sorry and ruined 2 or 3 chains .

LOL just worked on an ebay saw with the chain like this, depth guages filed half way down or more on a 28" bar. Beyond what they should be even at the end of the chains life. When it's not bound up it throws some chunks, but it's grabby, jumpy, pain in the a$$y. Mostly just dangerous to anyone around it.

I know plenty of blow hards who couldn't find their A$$ with both hands and a map , ego is a poor excuse for confidence.

I've found over the years (generally speaking); the bigger the mouth the smaller the knowledge/experience. Also, makes it hard to listen/learn when you're constantly huffing and puffing.