So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

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You can, but that one time the saw gets super hot one summer, a water cooled oil can break down and cause some damage.

I run Amsoil Saber in my air-cooled paramotor - I've seen cylinder head temps measured at the base of the spark plug reach 400° during climb out on a 90°+ day. I'm full throttle for 2 minutes straight or longer to gain an altitude I'm comfortable with (more altitude = more options if the engine decides to crap out). Hotter days = a slower climb rate, so I'm on the throttle longer. I'd wager a water cooled oil would've given up 100° earlier in that climb.

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If you’re riding that death machine you sir are insane
 
I put a photo or 3 up on the Lucas. It’s not good
Have used it in Liquid Cooled snowmobiles , full syn it was adequate , a little carbon on the power valves nothing to serious the semi synthetic same performance in Air Cooled saws , just adequate . But then at its price point what do you expect !
I put a photo or 3 up on the Lucas. It’s not good
Its adequate if you know how to tune for it !
 
Yamalube is good stuff.
Yamalube , I have had good service with in numerous applications . The Red line only in a few trimmer / blower applications , although in this forum numerous people have endorsed it . I have no bad experiences to relate against Red line other not readily available locally up North here .
 
Yamalube , I have had good service with in numerous applications . The Red line only in a few trimmer / blower applications , although in this forum numerous people have endorsed it . I have no bad experiences to relate against Red line other not readily available locally up North here .
Redline Racing Oil is garbage. No expiereance with all sport.
 
Have used it in Liquid Cooled snowmobiles , full syn it was adequate , a little carbon on the power valves nothing to serious the semi synthetic same performance in Air Cooled saws , just adequate . But then at its price point what do you expect !

Its adequate if you know how to tune for it !
No. No it isn’t. Wear was the problem. Dry bearings don’t go well. I can tune pretty well
 
because it depends on the mix of carburetor tuning and finally the use itself
That sure seems to play a large role. Which is why I don't understand why people don't follow the saw manufacturers mixture recommendations. I think the engineers that have put thousands of hours into R&D can make a stronger case for what they recomend than anyone else here that dreams up their own homebrew and then wonder why their saws look like hell, no offense intended.
 
Did you look at any of the pictures posted ?

no offense it’s just that there’s so many other oils out there that don’t carbon things up.

myself I’ll just use a different oil.

I have, and almost every one of them admit to using a different mixture than is recommended by the manufacturer. All Stihl products have been tuned to 50:1 for years, don't we think the oil is part of that equation? Do the same people put 15w40 in an engine that calls for 0w20, cuz more is better?
Again I ask the question, why don't my saws look like that after years of running Stihl oil exclusively. Judging by the comments on here its a real mystery.
 
I can't help but wonder why my saws, which have run Ultra exclusively for years don't look like this.
Ultra was never designed for a conventional 2T chainsaw engine . Ultra HP is a better oil for your usage. However , you must have your saw tuned well if you have no spong or carbon fouling . I have a buddy who still uses the Ultra with no problems also in a 462 lol.
 
I have, and almost every one of them admit to using a different mixture than is recommended by the manufacturer. All Stihl products have been tuned to 50:1 for years, don't we think the oil is part of that equation? Do the same people put 15w40 in an engine that calls for 0w20, cuz more is better?
Again I ask the question, why don't my saws look like that after years of running Stihl oil exclusively. Judging by the comments on here its a real mystery.
If it works for you. Run it. It’s been explained here for years and years. Not a mystery really. Some of these guys work on saws everyday. I work on my own. I’ll use something different
 
Ultra was never designed for a conventional 2T chainsaw engine . Ultra HP is a better oil for your usage.

The 2 oils I am aware of (maybe theres others?) Are the HP and HP Ultra. I have used the HP Ultra from day one in my 460 and 290, I was referring to the HP Ultra. Sorry for the confusion.


However , you must have your daw tuned well if you have no spong or carbon fouling .

Dang close to factory settings. I've seldom had to tweak either of my saws. I haven't touched the carb adjustments in either for at least a couple of seasons.
But I also run the recommended 50:1 (go figure! 😂)
 

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