Splitter Build

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breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Why no suspension? How many cords do you plan to run through it.
No suspension due to the fact I rarely cut or split off my family property all within a mile from the house. I use 10-15 cord a year on a bad year, so if I use this the rest of my life, it shouldn't see more than a few hundred cord.

I guess the hoses were too short to avoid the 45's at all? just keep an eye on the temps the first few times to see where you are at and what the norm is for you.
No, I figured the hose length with the 45° elbows in place. I added the 45° on the main cylinder mainly due to the fact that the one port is so close to the valve, I would have to had an excessively long hose right at the valve to keep the bend radius acceptable. And after adding the one 45° and the hose routed directly over the other port, the second 45° became necessary. I don't think that the 45°'s will restrict too much. I checked the calculations for each a 90° elbow and 45°, and the 45° was a much lower restriction. Actually a 45° is only 1/4 the head addition than a hard 90°. So my 2 45°'s should be half the restriction than 1 90°. But yes, I will be watching the temps. Worst case, I can add a return line cooler, but I doubt I will need it.
 
Kevin in Ohio

Kevin in Ohio

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No suspension due to the fact I rarely cut or split off my family property all within a mile from the house. I use 10-15 cord a year on a bad year, so if I use this the rest of my life, it shouldn't see more than a few hundred cord.


No, I figured the hose length with the 45° elbows in place. I added the 45° on the main cylinder mainly due to the fact that the one port is so close to the valve, I would have to had an excessively long hose right at the valve to keep the bend radius acceptable. And after adding the one 45° and the hose routed directly over the other port, the second 45° became necessary. I don't think that the 45°'s will restrict too much. I checked the calculations for each a 90° elbow and 45°, and the 45° was a much lower restriction. Actually a 45° is only 1/4 the head addition than a hard 90°. So my 2 45°'s should be half the restriction than 1 90°. But yes, I will be watching the temps. Worst case, I can add a return line cooler, but I doubt I will need it.

I guess maybe the auto cycle is a little different? I had no issues with hitting the handle running them straight. I am running a bypass though with the 28 GPM pump.

MVC-023S_18.JPG


MVC-008S_1.JPG


My loops are a little longer but I've learned you don't want them distorted or flexed at the crimps as it'll lead to leaks over time.

On a side note, I have no suspension either and don't regret it. The tires take up bounce of the 2 tons and I didn't want it moving around while lifting/dragging stuff. Yours is looking good and coming together nicely.
 
rancher2

rancher2

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Breymeyerfarm I am lucky as surplus center is only 10 miles from me. Over the years I have purchased a lot of things from them my first Stihl chain saw came from them they were a dealer back then. I always enjoy a nice splitter build. Your going to have a nice machine that will give you years of service. Kept the pictures coming. You will enjoy the log lift.
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Well it's setting on its tires. Some things I found out: 20 gallons of hydraulic fluid isn't enough. Still not on the sight glass. Even with 1/4" hoses reducing flow to the lift and wedge height adjustment, it's not quite enough reduction. If you go full lever, the wedge will go up and down in under a second. The lift isn't quite as bad as it's probably usable with some finesse, but I will probably buy a pair of needle valves to put in each circuit. Engine runs smooth. Main cylinder valve is adjusted pretty much spot on @2000psi from Prince. And finally, my shop is a MESS! It needs a thorough cleaning.
20180323_221131.jpg
 
Jakers

Jakers

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Id recommend a pair of these flow control valves. Free flow in one direction and restricted flow in the other. Fully adjustable from 15gpm for the 1/2" ones, down to 0gpm.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...nce-WFC-800-In-Line-Flow-Control-9-7960-8.axd

1+2+NPT+15+GPM+Prince+WFC-800+In-Line+Flow+Control_M.jpg


There are other options with flow dividers but they would work best if the splitting valve was first in line and then the divider flowing to secondary valve and tank with the excess
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Id recommend a pair of these flow control valves. Free flow in one direction and restricted flow in the other. Fully adjustable from 15gpm for the 1/2" ones, down to 0gpm.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...nce-WFC-800-In-Line-Flow-Control-9-7960-8.axd

1+2+NPT+15+GPM+Prince+WFC-800+In-Line+Flow+Control_M.jpg


There are other options with flow dividers but they would work best if the splitting valve was first in line and then the divider flowing to secondary valve and tank with the excess

Those wouldn't do what I need. I need flow restriction in both directions. A simple needle valve will do. Something like so: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...-GPM-Prince-WNV-400-Needle-Valve-9-7961-4.axd
 
Jakers

Jakers

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Those wouldn't do what I need. I need flow restriction in both directions. A simple needle valve will do. Something like so: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...-GPM-Prince-WNV-400-Needle-Valve-9-7961-4.axd
True. I guess I usually mount two of them at the valve with steel fittings to keep my pressures down in the hoses. If you blow a hose on the long side of the pressure with the needle valve you have free flow of the full pressure to make a bigger mess with more danger. With the ones I use the hoses never see over working load pressure and are restricted to flow so less oil escapes by the time my size 40 mitt can release the lever. I guess it just makes me feel better knowing there's not 2500psi running in my hoses every time I pull the lever
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Adjusted the valves upto 2600-2700psi. Worked through some walnut that I had chunked already. Had a few rounds of elm that went through the 4way with relatively little effort. (Vid of the elm) Temp was mid 40s out today and I ran it about 30-40 minutes. I shot the system in multiple places with my IR thermometer. The tank was 90-95° and the filter was 100°. Still have to mount the out feed tray and a few other odds and ends to wrap up, but this build is wrapping up. Get this coming winters' 10-15 cord worked through in the next month or so to make sure it works, and then tear it back down for sandblast and paint. Oh and pictures!
 
rancher2

rancher2

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Breymeyerfam Your last picture really drives home why I like the log lifts instead of a crane style lifts. The log lifts make a nice place to stage rounds. I have built them both ways and for our operation the log lift style works the best. By the time you get 10 to 15 cord threw it you will know if you have any weak points or want to change any thing before the final paint goes on.
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Lets talk about wedge edge material and hardness. Any of my previous wedges have always been mild steel. I've had the edges get a slight bend in them, but nothing that a ball peen hammer and a file wouldn't fix. Until today. Was working on some red oak and this happened:
20180401_155842.jpg
So the question is, should I try to harden the edges of the 4 way? Cut the edges out and weld in some tool steel? Hard surfacing rod? Or, did I just luck upon some real hard twisted grain and forget it and see if it happens again? I generally try to position the chunks of wood so the any large knots or limbs go through the main wedge and not the wings of the 4way. Must have missed something for that to happen...
 
rancher2

rancher2

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You have found out what I dislike about multi wedges. If you have enough push you break or bend things. I have used grader blades that are harden but sometimes you break the steel it self or where it is welded on. I split a lot of hard wood locust and hedge I run a six and half inch cylinder with the relief set at 2800 psi I have a six way and normally only use it four way. Multi wedges just aren't good for big pieces of knotty hard wood we have in my area. I am running some wings I bought off ebay from a guy in PA on my six way and they are holding up good.
 
Jakers

Jakers

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Regular A36 steel usually doesn't hold up real well for splitting wedges. Most on here use an AR400-450 or similar grade of steel. Sometimes the name Hardox is used but that is usually about AR400 so same thing just different name.

A splitter my dad built 40 some years ago, the wedge was made of 1.25" mild steel of some sort. He built up the edge with 6011 (ac rods) and then got his hands on some hard surfacing rods to work with his old ac only welder. Ran about 5 passes on the leading edge then killed 2 grinders sharpening it all down. When they finished the build they tested it out by splitting a few railroad ties... the hard way. Cut them right in half. The splitter is still splitting 20+ cords a year and the wedge has never bent or broken.

For 30 years it had a 6" cylinder on it. 10 years ago I swapped it to a 5" because a rebuild of the 6" was around $1000. The rod and piston were bad on it and a new ones would have to be custom built. The splitting wedge was 12" wide by 36" long. 18" high above the beam and bolted between two pieces of huge channel iron to make the beam. Had a flush to the beam support bolted in behind the wedge for extra backing.
 

CUCV

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Breymeyerfam very nice build! What are you running for a relief pressure on your valve? Racher2 is running 2800PSI. I just retuned the autocycle function on my TW5 valve this weekend and found the valve comes set at 2000psi. The 6 way wedged has not been very effective but now I see some room for improvement. What are other folks running for a relief pressure?
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Breymeyerfam very nice build! What are you running for a relief pressure on your valve? Racher2 is running 2800PSI. I just retuned the autocycle function on my TW5 valve this weekend and found the valve comes set at 2000psi. The 6 way wedged has not been very effective but now I see some room for improvement. What are other folks running for a relief pressure?

I am currently set at 2600psi, but will probably set to 2750psi max that my prince 3000 valve is capable of.
 
GM_Grimmy
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Mine is set at 2400. With a thin and sharp main wedge, that's more then enough pressure to split, and if it gets stuck, I get the saw out and make cut on top. I'd rather go easy on my equipment and not break anything, than crank the pressure up and bend/snap anything. My main wedge and 4 way as well as 6 way is all AR400. I've seen softer steel roll the edge just like the OP had on the 4 way. Might also not make it as sharp of an angle, as well as decrease the overall width of the 4 way.
 
breymeyerfam

breymeyerfam

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Well, after 3 and a half years, I finally got it painted. Few final notes after using it a few years. I should have used a heavier beam. I haven't bent this one, but it has flexed a time or two. The overall design is good and probably wouldnt change much structurally otherwise. When I decided on components, I ruled out an auto-cycle valve, as I thought it was unnecessary. If you are splitting with a helper feeding rounds, I tend to still agree. However, if you are solo, the auto-cycle would be VERY helpful. I will probably upgrade to one in the future.20211128_141215.jpg20211128_141236.jpg20211128_141347.jpg20211128_141356.jpg20211128_141410.jpg
 

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