Stihl 009 won't run, Stihl floods after rebuild.

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Echo26

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Just badly needed help, got my Stihl 009 been not running for because I cant find a chain sold locally. But now the thing won't run.

Steps made:
New plug
check ground fault , is ok
Carb has been cleaned
Needle lever is flush - set ok
Check fuel lines
New fuel line
New vent line
Fresh fuel
Magneto resistance values has been the same as service manual suggested

I have no compression gauge and spark plug tester but as I've tested myself, removed plug and the sticker my finger through the whole and sealed with a rag, the chamber becomes hot with the compression.

The spark seems weak but burns fuel when left in the air. Acting to start only if left the head open over night but immediately dies.

Played with the jet settings as service manual indicated but no success. I just wish it would only rev to tune it up but seems like the engine becomes flooded and the sparkplug is now unable to burn the fuel. I have to manually drain and let the piston surface dry before it acts to start then dies.

Fuel can be seen moving since the fuel line I've bought was transparent hose with the same diameter.

Reed valve was cleaned and remounted.

Now I have no way of knowing where to trouble shoot the stuff other than bring it to Stihl but the shop's too far roughly 300 miles.

Any input about this problem?
 
1. Metering lever too high
2. Metering diaphragm not spaced off carb body or hard as a rock holding needle valve open
3. Inlet needle valve has ring around cone end (worn) causing leak
 
1. Metering lever too high
2. Metering diaphragm not spaced off carb body or hard as a rock holding needle valve open
3. Inlet needle valve has ring around cone end (worn) causing leak
Seems like the inlet needle has a pink goo around the tip.
I might lower metering lever just in case.
Thanks for the tip, else I might have to wait for my kit.

Carb is C1S-S1C Zama
 
Yep found it earlier, I fixed the carb temporarily with some liquid gasket while waiting for the rebuild kit. I had it running for probably 30 seconds. 3 times today and dies with no spark under new plugs.


Now the coil is somehow really losing Voltage. I got new sparkplugs but the thing sparks outside when tested. But seems like the sparkplug lost its spark inside the Cylinder head. I got gas vaporised that looks like smoke but not burn. I've been trying already to adjust the gap of the plug and the coil, and the thing just weakens after 20pulls.

Heck I'm finding a replacement coil. Just to see it myself, it's now frustrating me.
 
Another bad news, tried adding oil to the chain oiler tank, the hell oil was leaking to the Cylinder head in the morning. Head was just filled with the oil from the chain oiler tank. I had to drain that stuff and cleaned the piston using gasoline .

Had it running for 30-40mins after that the the plugs stop sparking like hell. T
 
Be sure to look carefully at that doc instructions. It shows a straightedge across the carb body to the metering lever, but lists .067-.078” below flush in the written instructions.

Here's a photo of my ZAMA tool. Note the nub at the C1S position. I measure 0.070”.

View attachment 956998
Yeah, I have no gauges in me unfortunately but actually the thing won't run when it was flush, I had to dip the lever a bit and that's how it started to run for the first time in2 years straight for 30-40 seconds the. Immediately dies.
 
Another bad news, tried adding oil to the chain oiler tank, the hell oil was leaking to the Cylinder head in the morning. Head was just filled with the oil from the chain oiler tank. I had to drain that stuff and cleaned the piston using gasoline .

Had it running for 30-40mins after that the the plugs stop sparking like hell. T
That could do it? Oil warms up, draws into cylinder easier, mix no longer combusts properly (inconsiderate of them not to make bar oil more combustible).
 
Now I have discovered new issues along the way,

High tension wire is f'kd up, had to wrap with electrical tape. No idea if that'll cause issues.

Oil is leaking probably from the piston ring (I guess) from the chain oiler tank

The spark plug stops producing spark after 6-7 pulls.
 
That could do it? Oil warms up, draws into cylinder easier, mix no longer combusts properly (inconsiderate of them not to make bar oil more combustible).
No idea, I had to really drain the oiler tank since the spark plug was totally wet with the oil. 😞 , As long as I see oil spitting from the plug hole , it's a problem for me.
 
Now I just have to figure out why the hell the spark is Missing when it was left working. Don't ignition coils last than they're supposed to be?
 
How are you testing for loss of spark?
Tried old and new spark plug.

An NGK and a Bosch one

Had it out of the plug hole, and the spark plugs sparks towards ground for the first pull then casually weakens.

Now here's the weird part,
Checked resistance values as indicated in the manual, got the same values.

I have to remove and reinstall, recheck the gap and voila the coil has voltage and spark again but casually weakens. 😭😭😭
 
Now I'm f'kd up. I got spark now, I readjusted again the coil to a piece of credit card(thinner). Now, the Cylinder head is now dry as hell, the thing runs when added fuel to the sparkplug hole.


Now, I have to look at the carburator again. 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
 
Yeah, I have no gauges in me unfortunately but actually the thing won't run when it was flush, I had to dip the lever a bit and that's how it started to run for the first time in2 years straight for 30-40 seconds the. Immediately dies.
Use a straight edge across top. Need just the faintest of gap under straight edge. Shouldn't touch.
 

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