Stihl 010av runs for 5 seconds ,stalls.

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robertolino2

robertolino2

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gillingham kent
You said the saw was likely to have been sitting for a while when you got it, was there any gas in it? Was the carb all "gummed-up" inside with old/bad gas?
And now it runs at full throttle but floods at less than full throttle might indicate the low speed jet is letting way too much gas through.
It could be the low speed needle valve is damaged or the seat for the needle valve is damaged.
I would examine the low speed needle valve closely and carefully compare it to the one that you have in the other carb on the other saw. You could even try it in the other carb on the other saw to see if it shows the same symptoms.
At the moment I have set both the low and high screws to one full turn open.
 
robertolino2

robertolino2

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gillingham kent
At the moment I have set both the low and high screws to one full turn open.
I have acted on your advice.Stripped the carb ,purchased an ultrasonic cleaner ,and cleaned the carb thoroughly.No change.I would like you to have a look at the throttle linkage in the photographs I have enclosed .The photo's are not that clear ,but to me the cable looks stretched with age.I will either shorten the cable or buy a new one ,and keep you informed of my progress.
 

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Patrick1903

Patrick1903

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Dec 19, 2019
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VA
I have acted on your advice.Stripped the carb ,purchased an ultrasonic cleaner ,and cleaned the carb thoroughly.No change.I would like you to have a look at the throttle linkage in the photographs I have enclosed .The photo's are not that clear ,but to me the cable looks stretched with age.I will either shorten the cable or buy a new one ,and keep you informed of my progress.
Any progress on this one?
 
Patrick1903

Patrick1903

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Dec 19, 2019
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No I gave up in the end.I spent to much time on the saw and it became uneconomical both in time and money.I broke the saw for spares.
Sorry to hear that it wouldn’t run but glad you’re able to reuse parts. I may be in a similar situation with one of my projects.
 
Backstage

Backstage

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Oct 23, 2021
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Trying to find my tape measure
I did try to extract the valve,but was loathe to punch it to hard fearing I might damage the casing.Anyway I do have another saw with the same configuration and the same trouble.I rebuilt the carb and fitted it to the010AV, same trouble ,fires but won't idle.Itied the throttle wide open and she fired and ran first time but of course over revved.Flicked the throttle off and she died.I have adjusted the carb every possible way, but the results are the same,fires once then nothing ,clean plug ,express excess fuel ,pull her over fires once.
An arbor press, or even a drill press and a vice are ideal.
 
Vintage Engine Repairs
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Aug 12, 2019
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Australia
Compression test will test the condition of piston rings.

pressure test will test the part for leaks

vacuum test will test the seals for leaking.

It sounds like you’re confusing compression test with pressure test.

Compression test should yield 150 psi for a healthy Saw and doesn’t need to hold this pressure in the gauge (although with a functioning shrader valve it will) , 110 or less is unhealthy and probably won’t run and above 150 is very good.

pressure test should hold 7-10 psi for a set period. Generally a minute is fine.

same with vacuum.
 
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