Stihl 020 rebuilds, whoa and intrigue.

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tmessenger

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Here's a couple of 020's I've just got together:

The AVP came with a somewhat tired piston and ported cylinder but still made 150 psi compression. I had bought a 020 parts long block for $5 that had been dropped and cracked the case around the bar stud (it was fixable). The exhaust port and carburetor on this parts saw was packed with mud daubers so I didn't know what to expect but the p/c in it were mint so the AVP got those parts. This saw has also been updated with a WT-15a carb from an 020 super, a late style coil and 3/8 LP bar/ chain so it gets right with it. I used it this week to cut up a large elm tree that I dropped with a larger saw and it was impressive for such a little guy.

The AV was a mess, I guess one of the previous owners was a carpenter because part of it was held together with wood screws (no kidding). Also the case was cracked around the drive side main bearing and the carb was wonky so this one needed a lot of help (I fixed and used the bottom end from the $5 parts saw). The good news with this saw was the p/c were excellent. I used an electronic coil on it and had to index the points flywheel off of the electronic flywheel that came with the AVP, it works but I'd "hint hint" really like to have an electronic flywheel for it.

Whoa and intrigue:

Two of the three oil pumps had incontinent problems and oiled there pants until the bladder ran dry, the fix is to replace the oil pump input shaft seal. As you would expect this tiny seal is spendy, $8 from the dealer but at least it's still available.

Carbs: the Wt-15a just got a cleaning and works perfect, the WA-1 on the other hand needed some help. These carbs are old so you really need to go over them with care, mine had guck on the carb side of the inlet screen so it had to come out to get cleaned up. Also in the jet chamber there were two passages that needed attention (in the photo) #1 there is a tiny passage up in the corner that goes down to the low speed needle, I ran some fine wire through it to get it spotless. #2 you see a gob of JB weld that's because there is a machining passage that was open and it's not suppose to be. It leads right to the main jet in the venturi and just dumps gas past the high speed needle (can you say runs rich?). It must have had epoxy in it from the factory and comes out with time, be careful to just re-seal the top area, ya don't want any JB running down into the passage and queering the jet.

The evolution of the bean counter ( in the photo of the pump gears ), on the left an early gear with a brass bushing, center red gear little later on when the bean counter figured he could save a buck and just use the molded plastic for the bearing, on the right 3/8" picco spur gear to convert over to 3/8" LP chain, note: they've stopped making'm so get'm while you can.

Real weights:

AVP with 14" bar and chain dry, 10 pounds 12 ounces.
AV with 12" bar and chain dry, 10 pounds 2 ounces.

These tiny saws are beautifully made in the old school German fashion and a lot of fun to work on, plus they are good cutters if ya get'm right.

Enjoy!

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Great post ! Thanks !
I have a few of them here (one AVP) and I've been avoiding messing with them due to the talk here about the fussy carb. I'll be saving this post and I'll check out that epoxy spot on my carbs. before anything else.
Have you run a 200T ? If so, could you post a comparison ?
 
They really are a neat old saw. I rebuilt one for a friend that He had gotten for free and it turned out great. Here's a pic of my son holding it:

HPIM3452.jpg


Perfect size for a first grader LOL. Here's 1 more.

HPIM3443.jpg
 
Thanks for the great pics and insight! I'm cleaning up one for my FIL that I bought a while back.

Runs great, 175 psi cold. Tached it to 14,200, idles at about 2800. Seems to compare nicely to my MS200T.

I did a minor muffler mod that seemed to zip it up a little.

However, the original owner said it had a cold start problem, which continues through now. It acts like the choke does not work. You cannot flood it with the choke.

The choke appears to close off the air when it slides over the casting hole in front of the carb, but it seems to have no effect. The saw starts on the first pull, hot, and starts easy, if you put a finger over the carb mouth to really choke it when cold.

Any ideas what causes this?

THX!
 
Thanks for the great pics and insight! I'm cleaning up one for my FIL that I bought a while back.

Runs great, 175 psi cold. Tached it to 14,200, idles at about 2800. Seems to compare nicely to my MS200T.

I did a minor muffler mod that seemed to zip it up a little.

However, the original owner said it had a cold start problem, which continues through now. It acts like the choke does not work. You cannot flood it with the choke.

The choke appears to close off the air when it slides over the casting hole in front of the carb, but it seems to have no effect. The saw starts on the first pull, hot, and starts easy, if you put a finger over the carb mouth to really choke it when cold.

Any ideas what causes this?

THX!

A couple of things I would check: Make sure the two 8mm nuts are tight that hold the carb against the case, otherwise the carb can pull air from the back side and not across the choke. Look at the impulse line for a tight fit and no holes or cracks, it runs real close to the cylinder head and can hole there. Check the carb diaphragm if it is getting dried out it could be slow to pump gas up. Check the inlet needle arm height, you'll need the Walbro gauge for this.
 
There really isn't much difference in engine displacement between the 020 Super like the one Bwolf has and a MS 200 just a couple of cc. In a down and dirty lean on it 16 in cut the 020 would edge out a 200. The 020 has a little more torgue on the bottom end than a 200. To me it does anyway. The connecting rod in a 200 is not as long as a 020 rod . The shorter stroke makes for faster chain speed in the 200 which gives the 200 it's speed for the smaller cuts but drops off in the larger cuts. The transfers are different also. In the 020 the transfers are closed. In the 200 they are open which makes for quicker acceleration and speed.

14 plus thou is a little to high for an 020 . If memory serves me right WOT should be around 13,600.

Nice looking saws you guys have. Keep up the good work. It's nice to see others have an interest in these saws and sharing info.
 
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Thanks Ax-man for chiming in you're da man when it comes to these small Stihl's and wealth of knowledge.
 
What a timely post for me? I have five of these saws and I am in the process of rebuilding the third one. The first one I bought new forty years ago. It is in constant use. This saw still runs great and starts with one or two pulls. Four others I bought as basket cases for $50 each on this forum. The second saw my son uses and that one also runs great. I am now working on a third, a 020av super. I just finished putting a new tank gasket on it. It starts but will not keep running. I need to clean the carburetor. Thanks for the carburetor info.
 
What a timely post for me? I have five of these saws and I am in the process of rebuilding the third one. The first one I bought new forty years ago. It is in constant use. This saw still runs great and starts with one or two pulls. Four others I bought as basket cases for $50 each on this forum. The second saw my son uses and that one also runs great. I am now working on a third, a 020av super. I just finished putting a new tank gasket on it. It starts but will not keep running. I need to clean the carburetor. Thanks for the carburetor info.

Your super will have the WT-15a so the above info does not apply, the Wt is a nice carb and easy to get right.

I have a Tillotson HU that I'm going through now, I'll add pics and any comments about that carb to this thread in a few days.

tm
 
The 020av super does not seem to have the compression that the other two 020av's have although it did test at about 150 psi after several pulls. I haven't seen any cylinder/piston combo's on Ebay lately although there is a new piston for sale. If there are no score marks on the cylinder is it advisable to just replace the piston/rings without replacing the cylinder or do they come as a matched set.
 
The 020av super does not seem to have the compression that the other two 020av's have although it did test at about 150 psi after several pulls. I haven't seen any cylinder/piston combo's on Ebay lately although there is a new piston for sale. If there are no score marks on the cylinder is it advisable to just replace the piston/rings without replacing the cylinder or do they come as a matched set.

150 is OK compression so you could just leave it or put rings in it if you are inclined. I doubt it has scoring with that compression. I lightly scuff by hand my cylinders with 320 wet and dry when I put rings in them. Make sure to wash it out with hot soapy before re-assembly.
 
Is there any way to tell if your 020av has a 38mm bore or 40mm bore without dissassembling it. I am almost 99% sure the 020av super I have has the 40mm bore, but I bought the saw used and do not know its history. I could not find any marking on the cylinder, but maybe I didn't look in the right place. I would like to buy some new rings. Also with a chrome plated bore, I assume that these cylinders do not wear unless of course they are scored.
 
38mm or 40mm bore

Is there any way to tell if your 020av has a 38mm bore or 40mm bore without dissassembling it. I am almost 99% sure the 020av super I have has the 40mm bore, but I bought the saw used and do not know its history. I could not find any marking on the cylinder, but maybe I didn't look in the right place. I would like to buy some new rings. Also with a chrome plated bore, I assume that these cylinders do not wear unless of course they are scored.

Does anyone know how to tell them apart?
 
Does anyone know how to tell them apart?

The popcycle stick method of bore measurement is very accurate.

Remove muffler, insert popcycle stick in cylinder accross top of piston, rotate crank by hand and pinch stick to make a mark. Measure with fine machinest scale or dial calipers. A difference of two mm. is very easy to see.
 
020 AV and Super Clutch coversion

Hi all,

I figured some on here might know the answer to a 020AV question. I have 3 020s 020AV AVP and a super, The Super I use Daily for work I am the original owner and just love it and always have! I have these old 020s and would like to covert them to 3/8 pico chain they are now 1/4. Does any one know how or where I can buy a conversion kit?
 
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Hi all,

I figured some on here might know the answer to a 020AV question. I have 3 020s 020AV AVP and a super, The Super I use Daily for work I am the original owner and just love it and always have! I have these old 020s and would like to covert them to 3/8 pico chain they are now 1/4. Does any one know how or where I can buy a conversion kit?

And what great saws they are! I have the same, but with the professional handle. I am seeing a guy tonight, he might be able to help me. He will try and find a sprocket from another Stihl saw (8 teeth and 3/8"). I will keep you posted!
Regards,
Gert Beckers
Belgium
 
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