Stihl 020T rebuild - cylinder recommendation

[mbrick]

I was given this Stihl 020T that did not start (low compression). Overall it seems fairly low hour. Piston and cylinder are scored on the exhaust side. I plan on fixing and keeping it.

I pressure tested and surprisingly it passed vac and pressure.
Should I replace the crank seals anyway? I think they are the Stihl bakelite type. I bought Stihl OEM traditional rubber seal with spring type.
Have new OEM fuel line, carb rebuild kit, wrist pin bearing, crank seals, and a few other misc parts.

I've spent a bit wet sanding the cylinder and the darker lines appear to be scored and not buildup, so I think I need a cylinder?
Or should I focus on removing the aluminum transfer and re-use it?

A few options, not sure what I should do for the top end:
1. OEM cylinder/piston for $165
2. Meteor cylinder/piston for $130
3. Meteor piston for $35
4. Used cylinder/piston (link) for $100 + Caber or OEM rings $14

The Meteor cylinder says 020 and 200T but it has the divider in the transfer port... is that 200T change actually backwards compatible?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Pics of cyl after you worked on it?
I did one about that bad and the cyl cleaned up fine with no scores that would catch a fingernail or dental pic. Put a piston and rings in and it ran great.
earlier 020, 38mm. No aftermarket pistons available so found a clean used one off eBay.
if scored, yea, cylinder time.

 

[mbrick]

That's after, so far...

I think there is some scoring for the dark lines (slightly catches a pick) vs raised transfer material which makes me think it's not worth working on the al transfer more sanding or with muriatic.

Intake side looks great.

Any scoring is a no go? Just so I know what the typical expectations are after clean up.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

That's after, so far...

I think there is some scoring for the dark lines (slightly catches a pick) vs raised transfer material which makes me think it's not worth working on the al transfer more sanding or with muriatic.

Intake side looks great.

Any scoring is a no go? Just so I know what the typical expectations are after clean up.

It will run, won’t have good comp.
the saw is worth fixing right, imo

 

[mbrick]

Ok, that helps knowing it's not usable and I need to find one. I agree I would like it to run right.

Used, OEM, meteor?
I don't necessarily like the Meteor option now that I see it is the newer transfer port for a 200T? Not matched up well to the cases?

What do you think about the crank seals? I don't know much about the bakelite, never seen them before this saw.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

If you can find a clean oe cyl I’d go that route. Meteor pistons seem fine, never had a problem so far but I’ve used so few I’m a lousy source .

 

[Sierra_rider]

If you can get an OEM cylinder/piston for $165, I'd go that route. The 020T had a different cylinder layout from the 200t, that is more desirable IMO.

I don't have much experience with the Meteor stuff. If it's molded after a 200t, I'm sure it will work, but the 020T is likely better. I've messed with Hyway cylinders before and wasn't impressed. Probably fine if you're just swapping cylinders and not doing anything else, but the Hyway was a PITA to port. Really flaky plating.

 

[mbrick]

Thanks gents, ordered the OEM 020T cylinder/piston kit.

What about crank seals? Leave the bakelite since they are sealing or replace with the OEM rubber seals I bought?
I am slightly concerned with damaging the case trying to extract these, etc and am inclined to not touch it if it isnt broken. But I have not worked on a 020T and don't know the reputation of these bakelite seals.

Oil pump holes are blind...? Great! I have had to block them in other saws and I was watching a 200T video that also said to block them for a pressure test but maybe that was incorrect info...

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Thanks gents, ordered the OEM 020T cylinder/piston kit.

What about crank seals? Leave the bakelite since they are sealing or replace with the OEM rubber seals I bought?
I am slightly concerned with damaging the case trying to extract these, etc and am inclined to not touch it if it isnt broken. But I have not worked on a 020T and don't know the reputation of these bakelite seals.

Oil pump holes are blind...? Great! I have had to block them in other saws and I was watching a 200T video that also said to block them for a pressure test but maybe that was incorrect info...

Deals aren't hard to swap out...no case cracking. Cheap ins.

 

[bulletpruf]

Replace the seals.

 

[mbrick]

Do I need to check ring gap with a new OEM piston/cylinder kit? Since they come as a set they should be good to go?
Rings are already on the piston so I don't want to stretch them on and off...

Ok, replaced the seals. Made a puller and the bakelite seals came out easy, no bore damage.
The Stihl driver tool was very helpful for the clutch side because it piloted on the crank. It did not work well for the flywheel side.

 

[bulletpruf]

I always check ring gap when I rebuild a car engine. I have never done it on a chainsaw, and I have rebuilt dozens.