Stihl 026 dies when tilted forward

[timbo917]

I have a 026 that dies when you tilt the saw forward when idling. Every other direction is no problem and when Reved up it is no problem either. For the rest the saw runs great. I did a carburetor cleaning and rebuild but it is stil the same. Full fuel tank or empty it makes no difference. Somebody any ideas what could cause this?

 

[HarleyT]

What is your fuel line like?

 

[pioneerguy600]

This is a known problem on the 026, the fuel puddles in the area the manifold connects to the cylinder and when tipped forward the fuel dumps into the crankcase as a liquid and floods the engine out.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Tuning the L speed needle until it is just enough fuel to get transition from idle to WOT is about all than can be done short of having the lip of the intake on the cylinder ground out.

 

[timbo917]

That was my first taught to but it is ok. A little stiff but no holes,

 

[timbo917]

Thanks for the info. I did not know this problem with the 026

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks for the info. I did not know this problem with the 026

If you have time run a search on this site and you should come up with a good many threads on what is the cause and info on how to fix it.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

good to know. i have an 026. never exp'd that issue, though. if it was mine, i would just raise the idle to just under chain movement... and clear it first before tilting saw off idle fwd. or idle and then with the saw ready to cut, get down to business...

hope the posts help you tb

 

[HarleyT]

Also, look at the fuel line, see if it is overly soft and gummy, or has cracks.

 

[Gamma Woods]

What's your compression like? I found that bumping compression can help lessen the fuel pooling annoyance.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Also, look at the fuel line, see if it is overly soft and gummy, or has cracks.

My 026 was my first saw, bought new in 1994. When it finally began to start up poorly, or run terribly, this is what I found. Gummy fuel lines. Impulse line especially. Replaced the lines and filter, installed new OEM carb too. My ratonale was for less than $30, a new one would run the saw as it should, unlike a 25 year old carb that was possibly gunked from the goopy rubber of the old fuel lines.

Curious though about this symptom pioneerguy600 mentions on 026's

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

I also might suggest watching this video. Sure opened my eyes. Never knew fuel filters could cause piston scoring due to how bad ones can cause lean running.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Tuning the L speed needle until it is just enough fuel to get transition from idle to WOT is about all than can be done short of having the lip of the intake on the cylinder ground out.

Pioneer, is this grinding on the inside or outside of the cylinder intake or both?

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

This is a known problem on the 026, the fuel puddles in the area the manifold connects to the cylinder and when tipped forward the fuel dumps into the crankcase as a liquid and floods the engine out.

I can picture this phenomenon as the saw runs and fuel is delivered. Just need confirmation in my question above.

 

[huskihl]

I can picture this phenomenon as the saw runs and fuel is delivered. Just need confirmation in my question above.

Inside the intake port on the cylinder right before the plating there is a valley that puddles fuel. Tuning the L slightly lean gets rid of most of it like mentioned

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Inside the intake port on the cylinder right before the plating there is a valley that puddles fuel. Tuning the L slightly lean gets rid of most of it like mentioned

huskihl, if I may ask, did Stihl ever figure this out and modify how the cylinders were made in later years of the run of this saw? I ask because I have 2-926's and bought 2- 1111 series saws, 051 and 075. Both 1111 saws needed new top ends and possibly new bottoms as well to ensure no crank sloppiness and bearing seal leakage.

But, as I told pioneerguy600, my new OEM 075 cylinders and pistons are really different in construction and how the piston windows are shaped. Makes me wonder why the changes.

 

[huskihl]

huskihl, if I may ask, did Stihl ever figure this out and modify how the cylinders were made in later years of the run of this saw? I ask because I have 2-926's and bought 2- 1111 series saws, 051 and 075. Both 1111 saws needed new top ends and possibly new bottoms as well to ensure no crank sloppiness and bearing seal leakage.

But, as I told pioneerguy600, my new OEM 075 cylinders and pistons are really different in construction and how the piston windows are shaped. Makes me wonder why the changes.

I’m not certain on any of that. But it’s not really much of a problem if you lean out the L a little bit and turn the idle up. I can’t imagine it was worth making a change to the engine