Stihl 026 will not run

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Texan916

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tear it down and see if you can clean the cylinder up to reuse it then measure the piston to make sure you get the correct one. then stuff something like this in if you get it cleaned up. then pressure/vac test it.
Gotta wait till I can post a wanted ad. I don't have the privileges yet.
 

pioneerguy600

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For me its OEM parts only as my saws are used to make money for me and being an independent contractor I can wright the cost of all my tools off. Many on here like to use Meteor piston and cylinders as replacements and reportedly get good service results, the cheaper sets are really hit n miss on quality, others that use AM parts may have better suggestions on AM stuff. I have seen plenty of chewed up AM engine parts brought in by others. I replace all with OEM as I cannot guarantee any of the AM stuff will hold up. For non moving or engine supporting parts the AM plastics is ok to use but even am carbs are not the best, some work ok but many are iffy. It is up to you how much you want to spend on this rebuild or repair so you must decide that. OEM parts are mostly dealer only unless you have lots of time to watch eBay for the odd new OEM part to show up, I buy my stuff from a local Stihl dealer. I think where your saw has the screw on fuel and oil covers/caps it would be a 44mm P&C on it.
 

JMCK

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Hi. You stated fuel from impulse at carb ? If so something is wrong there. No fuel should be present. Also consider if thats what the top end looks like, they bottom end may have issue too. I say throw a cheap top end and see what it sounds like as far as bottom end before blowing top dollar on Oem. Good look. They are easy fun saws to work on. Also be careful trimming fuel lines , filters fall off easier that way.
 
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Before you pull the cylinder off remove the clutch and flywheel. It's best to use the proper puller for the flywheel, and the clutch has left hand threads. You'll want to be able to get at and replace the seals and pressure /vac test them. Some people use a small impact to get the clutch and flywheel nut off. Don't use a large one, you risk snapping the crank end off.
I use a piece of soft rope stuffed in the plug hole as a piston stop. If you use rope have the piston near TDC so you don't get it caught in a port. Don't use an impact with a piston stop.

Read up on cleaning aluminum transfer from cylinders. You might get lucky and be able to salvage it. Post some more pictures once you get the cylinder off. I'm pretty sure the OEM P/C set is still avalible at dealerships

Go to the beg for manuals thread and download an IPL and shop manual.
 

Texan916

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Before you pull the cylinder off remove the clutch and flywheel. It's best to use the proper puller for the flywheel, and the clutch has left hand threads. You'll want to be able to get at and replace the seals and pressure /vac test them. Some people use a small impact to get the clutch and flywheel nut off. Don't use a large one, you risk snapping the crank end off.
I use a piece of soft rope stuffed in the plug hole as a piston stop. If you use rope have the piston near TDC so you don't get it caught in a port. Don't use an impact with a piston stop.

Read up on cleaning aluminum transfer from cylinders. You might get lucky and be able to salvage it. Post some more pictures once you get the cylinder off. I'm pretty sure the OEM P/C set is still avalible at dealerships

Go to the beg for manuals thread and download an IPL and shop manual.
Will do! Thanks for the info and tips!
 
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Ask and you Shall receive.
Looks like the OEM P/C is "Discontinued or Obsolete"
It's part number 1121 020 1203 if you can find it elsewhere. OEM cost is listed at $297.99 if you can find it.
You can find AM parts for this saw though, Looks like a Meteor P/C is about $130.
I have use HLSupply and have had good luck with them.
I just rebuilt my old 98' Husky 55 with a HyWay kit and that thing screams... three tanks so far without a hitch.
Good luck with bringing this bad boy back.
I love bringing old saws back to life!!
 

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  • Stihl 026 Crank IPL.pdf
    93.5 KB · Views: 1
  • Stihl 026 Piston and Cylinder IPL.pdf
    71.3 KB · Views: 1
  • Stihl 026 Repair Manual.pdf
    2.7 MB · Views: 3

Texan916

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Ask and you Shall receive.
Looks like the OEM P/C is "Discontinued or Obsolete"
It's part number 1121 020 1203 if you can find it elsewhere. OEM cost is listed at $297.99 if you can find it.
You can find AM parts for this saw though, Looks like a Meteor P/C is about $130.
I have use HLSupply and have had good luck with them.
I just rebuilt my old 98' Husky 55 with a HyWay kit and that thing screams... three tanks so far without a hitch.
Good luck with bringing this bad boy back.
I love bringing old saws back to life!!
Awesome! Thank you very much!
 
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Ask and you Shall receive.
Looks like the OEM P/C is "Discontinued or Obsolete"
It's part number 1121 020 1203 if you can find it elsewhere. OEM cost is listed at $297.99 if you can find it.
You can find AM parts for this saw though, Looks like a Meteor P/C is about $130.
I have use HLSupply and have had good luck with them.
I just rebuilt my old 98' Husky 55 with a HyWay kit and that thing screams... three tanks so far without a hitch.
Good luck with bringing this bad boy back.
I love bringing old saws back to life!!

The later 44.7mm sets might still be available that came on the later 026 and 260?
 

Texan916

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Alright, I got good news..I think. Went to a dealer in the next town over. Got a tech that was willing to put in the time and research parts. He found all oem stihl parts. Only part I was not able to find was an oem cylinder. Total was $157 USD. Seemed like a good price.
 

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  • 20221202_172617.jpg
    20221202_172617.jpg
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DP425

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Quick question-
Let’s say it’s a 44mm P&C…

Would you be able to install the 44.7mm P&C from the later saws onto the older saw’s bottom end? Or are the crank and/or con-rod different as well?
 

Texan916

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Quick question-
Let’s say it’s a 44mm P&C…

Would you be able to install the 44.7mm P&C from the later saws onto the older saw’s bottom end? Or are the crank and/or con-rod different as well?
I've wondered this as well
 

pioneerguy600

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Quick question-
Let’s say it’s a 44mm P&C…

Would you be able to install the 44.7mm P&C from the later saws onto the older saw’s bottom end? Or are the crank and/or con-rod different as well?
The 44.7 is a direct bolt on replacement,no alterations required.
 

DP425

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The 44.7 is a direct bolt on replacement,no alterations required.

So, in reality, it would likely be a bit of an upgrade. And those parts, OEM, appear to be relatively easy to get.

Now, I've seen it said that the displacement increase happened when it went from 026 to MS260... and I've seen it said that the "later" 026, or Pro 026's had the larger displacement.

What's true? Would my 1996-ish 026 Pro have the 44mm or 44.7mm?

Great info I'm getting here. Thanks all!
 
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So, in reality, it would likely be a bit of an upgrade. And those parts, OEM, appear to be relatively easy to get.

Now, I've seen it said that the displacement increase happened when it went from 026 to MS260... and I've seen it said that the "later" 026, or Pro 026's had the larger displacement.

What's true? Would my 1996-ish 026 Pro have the 44mm or 44.7mm?

Great info I'm getting here. Thanks all!
the 44mm run better.
 

flatsfisher

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Alright, I got good news..I think. Went to a dealer in the next town over. Got a tech that was willing to put in the time and research parts. He found all oem stihl parts. Only part I was not able to find was an oem cylinder. Total was $157 USD. Seemed like a good price.
looks like fair pricing and you'll be all OEM.
 

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