Stihl 026 won’t run

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farmers036

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I’ve got a stihl 026 that won’t run when I pull the recoil cord it hits (starts) but won’t stay running I’ve messed with the carb (wt194) some took it apart cleaned it still wouldn’t run so I left the air filter off now it runs but won’t idle good it dies I checked the air filter choke spring everything seems to be fine it’s basically a new oem filter I’ve done a vacuum test on the carb it passed I don’t have everything needed to test the case but it was running perfect before I had one hard kickback right after that it just try’s to run but ends up bogging down till it dies has 155psi compression, piston, rings, and cylinder look mint the piston still has the little lines for the oil to catch onto did do a muffler mod opened it up right around the same size as the exhaust side of the cylinder and advanced the timing but that was 4weeks before it quit running so I checked the flywheel and woodruff key everything’s still in place as I left it, just after that one hard kickback it won’t run
 
Check the fuel line in the tank, see if it's hung up somewhere.just a guess, the kickback must have shifted something somewhere
 
Check the fuel line in the tank, see if it's hung up somewhere.just a guess, the kickback must have shifted something somewhere
I tested the fuel line and impulse line with my mighty vac and inspected it by eye along with the filter I’m just stumped honestly
 
I’ve got a stihl 026 that won’t run when I pull the recoil cord it hits (starts) but won’t stay running I’ve messed with the carb (wt194) some took it apart cleaned it still wouldn’t run so I left the air filter off now it runs but won’t idle good it dies I checked the air filter choke spring everything seems to be fine it’s basically a new oem filter I’ve done a vacuum test on the carb it passed I don’t have everything needed to test the case but it was running perfect before I had one hard kickback right after that it just try’s to run but ends up bogging down till it dies has 155psi compression, piston, rings, and cylinder look mint the piston still has the little lines for the oil to catch onto did do a muffler mod opened it up right around the same size as the exhaust side of the cylinder and advanced the timing but that was 4weeks before it quit running so I checked the flywheel and woodruff key everything’s still in place as I left it, just after that one hard kickback it won’t run
It sounds like the flywheel shifted. I would check the key and the flywheel closely... again. Could also be an air leak. check the carb /cylinder boot and the impulse line where it connects to the cylinder. The kickback could have torn or disconnected either of these components.
 
It sounds like the flywheel shifted. I would check the key and the flywheel closely... again. Could also be an air leak. check the carb /cylinder boot and the impulse line where it connects to the cylinder. The kickback could have torn or disconnected either of these components.
I checked the carb impulse line and intake boot just now all seem fine and the carb passes the vacuum test i replaced the intake an impulse line about 2 months ago with oem parts didn’t figure they would be bad but didn’t think it would hurt to check and I installed a new stock oem flywheel key and the flywheel is still where I left it when I tightened it down I’m leaning towards it’s a carb problem I’m about to try the wt194 on my 024 and see how it runs
 
Flywheel key in good shape?
Yeah I actually installed a new oem flywheel key after it quit working in hopes it would fix it even tho there was nothing wrong with the key I filled down but still no luck I’m leaning towards a carb issue because my intake boot impulse fuel line and filters (air & gas) are good replaced them all about two months ago all oem stihl parts I’ve just checked them I’m going to try the carb off my 026 on my 024 and see how it runs
 
Some carbs get worn out if everything passes, did you pressure and vac test the case? If seas pass then if you cleaned the carb how did the fuel pump feel? How's the carb screen? Hows also the adjustment on the carb? Factory setting is L 1 turn out and h 1 turn out to get base line
 
Some carbs get worn out if everything passes, did you pressure and vac test the case? If seas pass then if you cleaned the carb how did the fuel pump feel? How's the carb screen? Hows also the adjustment on the carb? Factory setting is L 1 turn out and h 1 turn out to get base line
It was the carb I swapped it onto my 024 and it would not idle I swapped the 024 carb to my 026 ran like a champ and I cleaned everything all the different holes valleys and the screen were clean I sprayed some carb cleaner in the screen and pushed the needle valve flows fluid easily checked my high and low like has to be 10 times now and no I did not check my case but I think I’m going to swap a 44.7mm top end on port it adjust the timing and replaced seals and base gasket new to porting so prob just going to do the lowers and not do a base gasket delete for I am still a rookie at porting but got mm’s and adjusting timing down
 
It was the carb I swapped it onto my 024 and it would not idle I swapped the 024 carb to my 026 ran like a champ and I cleaned everything all the different holes valleys and the screen were clean I sprayed some carb cleaner in the screen and pushed the needle valve flows fluid easily checked my high and low like has to be 10 times now and no I did not check my case but I think I’m going to swap a 44.7mm top end on port it adjust the timing and replaced seals and base gasket new to porting so prob just going to do the lowers and not do a base gasket delete for I am still a rookie at porting but got mm’s and adjusting timing down
Check squish before removing the cylinder, and clean gasket Check squish again. You may be able to do a bg delete without cutting the squish band. Are you using a timing wheel or hoping for the best?
 
Check squish before removing the cylinder, and clean gasket Check squish again. You may be able to do a bg delete without cutting the squish band. Are you using a timing wheel or hoping for the best?
I will be using a timing wheel I found out a while back it’s nice to have when your adjusting timing on an ole 12v cummins and I’ll check it today when I get home I’ve already removed cylinder and base gasket and was checking the transfers intake an exhaust on my cylinder
 
Sounds like a main jet nozzle check valve that is sticking open, will seriously screw up the idle but allow the saw to run normal at high speed. You didn't by any chance use high pressure air to blow out the carb? Could destroy the valve.
No I’ve only used carb cleaner, I’ve used the air compressor to blow dirt off and the saw but that might be it because it runs great at high rpms and cuts good but once you let off the trigger or bury the bar it will die in low rpms
 
Sometime spraying a carb out with carb cleaner doesn't cut it. Get a gallon of Berryman carb soak.
I actually watched a video on that does it work good? And I assume I should remove the gasket an diaphragm and take the carb apart and put all the pieces in the cleaner other than the diaphragm and gasket
 
I will be using a timing wheel I found out a while back it’s nice to have when your adjusting timing on an ole 12v cummins and I’ll check it today when I get home I’ve already removed cylinder and base gasket and was checking the transfers intake an exhaust on my cylinder
How were your numbers? This is what I got on the first 026, find out on the 2nd 026 in coming weeks

026 no bg
Ex 98 atdc
Transfers 120 atdc
Intake 74 btdc
22 deg bd
 
How were your numbers? This is what I got on the first 026, find out on the 2nd 026 in coming weeks

026 no bg
Ex 98 atdc
Transfers 120 atdc
Intake 74 btdc
22 deg bd
I’ll let you know when my timing wheel gets here the one I use on diesels i magnetic and sticks to the timing cover I’ll give you a picture of one I can’t use it but what are you using for to attach it to the crank ? I’ll also give you a picture of the one I ordered
 

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