Stihl 028 AV Super died on me *Update* new pictures

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Cycled it in both directions slowly with a drill about 20 revolutions both on vacuum and pressure. Needle moved with the stroke but held and also sprayed seals under pressure with no bubbles. Left it on pressure and it took over an hour to come down from 5-7psi to about 2-3psi but did still have some pressure when I hit the release. I'm going to take the jug off and see the damage. I'll post pics when I get it apart.
Thanks, ctf58
 
You'll get practice on removing aluminum transfer. Go slow so you don't do more damage either with abrasives or acid.

You might get lucky and the cylinder will clean up to being useful with a new piston.

Seals come with a gasket set so regardless I would suggest installing those. Be careful not to mar the crankshaft or cases where the seals seat.
 
So here it is. Not as bad as I thought. Does it still look like a lean seizure? There is a bit of metal on the piston above the wear on the exhaust side. Also the rings a seized in the area and looks to me like it was like that for a little bit based on the carbon at the top of the cylinder. Didn't know if some chrome or other metal caused it. That said keeping in mind I have no clue what I'm talking about.
 

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I wet sanded the cylinder by hand while cleaning it up and it feels smooth but still has discoloration streaks. Do i neew to worry about the carbon at the top of the piston?i got what i could but it is hard to get to. Now what? Order a new Piston and rings?
 
That cylinder should clean up fine. OEM cylinder kits are NLA glad you're cleaning it up. Make sure you get ALL the aluminum transfer off. Hit it with some wet/dry with dish detergent.

If you are not sure if it's transfer you could dab it with some acid being careful not to get any on any defects or port edges, I use a q-tip. If it's transfer it will react/dissolve/bubble with the acid then wipe off. Have rinse water and baking soda solution (to neutralize acid) handy.

I think you meant carbon at top of cylinder? Yes, clean that out. Some copper Chore Boy is good for that.

The bad scoring is on the clutch side where things get the hottest first. Find out what caused it so it don't happen again. Since it pressure tested O.K. it's either a carb setting too lean or bad mix. If you are sure of the mix, Hi carb setting was too lean and the long cut in the big oak it got too hot (see Okie's post #19). That's assuming the flywheel housing and cylinder fins were not caked up in sawdust crud.

Post some more pictures when you work on the cylinder some more. I'd get a OEM piston if money is not tight but Meteor will do too (< 1/2 cost of Stihl). I think OEM pistons are still available but don't have a 2022 price list to check.
 
A couple more things. OEM gasket set w/seals is NLA, seals and gaskets are. I'd replace the seals even though they tested good, and recheck vac/pressure when back together.

Seals are same as BR400 blower, and gasket/seal set is cheaper than buying individual seals.
 
That cylinder should clean up fine. OEM cylinder kits are NLA glad you're cleaning it up. Make sure you get ALL the aluminum transfer off. Hit it with some wet/dry with dish detergent.

If you are not sure if it's transfer you could dab it with some acid being careful not to get any on any defects or port edges, I use a q-tip. If it's transfer it will react/dissolve/bubble with the acid then wipe off. Have rinse water and baking soda solution (to neutralize acid) handy.

I think you meant carbon at top of cylinder? Yes, clean that out. Some copper Chore Boy is good for that.

The bad scoring is on the clutch side where things get the hottest first. Find out what caused it so it don't happen again. Since it pressure tested O.K. it's either a carb setting too lean or bad mix. If you are sure of the mix, Hi carb setting was too lean and the long cut in the big oak it got too hot (see Okie's post #19). That's assuming the flywheel housing and cylinder fins were not caked up in sawdust crud.

Post some more pictures when you work on the cylinder some more. I'd get a OEM piston if money is not tight but Meteor will do too (< 1/2 cost of Stihl). I think OEM pistons are still available but don't have a 2022 price list to check.
It was very clogged with sawdust. Flywheel looked like it had made a cork gasket around the perimeter. It was hard, thick and crusty. Came out as a two piece ring .
 
Well it's alive! I'll cycle it several times for a few minutes for at least a tank of gas. I lubed everything with 2 stroke oil when assembling it. I checked the H and L screws and the H was o ly about 3/4 turns out. After I get done breaking it in I'll Rev it up and adjust it so that it is on the rich side and 4stroking a little. Thanks to all that replied with helpful comments. Oh, I went with a meteor piston kit with caber rings.
 
A couple more things. OEM gasket set w/seals is NLA, seals and gaskets are. I'd replace the seals even though they tested good, and recheck vac/pressure when back together.

Seals are same as BR400 blower, and gasket/seal set is cheaper than buying individual seals.
Nice to know about the seals
 
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