Stihl 028AV super

[JL43062]

I recently inherited a 028AV super and have taken it on as a project to repair and learn while doing so. So far it has done well to school me! Wouldn't start, found to have low compression (~90), and leaky clutch side seal... From this, found crank bearings to be high friction. So I bought china piston cylinder, some bearings/seals/gaskets from sawzilla and away I go!

Thanks to forums like this and vid repositories, I can often find the info I need to do a task right or wrong. But learn either way. I've disassembled the saw, cleaned it best I could, used a case splitter, heat diff method to replace bearings (cleaned case chassis where bearings fit). The bearings drop into place with heat diff method and a couple soft taps, some comparing of fitment, and I'm pressing the case together with new gasket. Used heat diff to get flywheel side of crank through bearing, then clutch side needing pressed (learned hard way not to use the clutch to press case together--metal shavings into open bearings, but undid the error and thoroughly cleaned the bearings well. Note: Prior to undoing error, I pressed case together and felt resistance). Replaced permanent case screws with longer ones, temporarily, to uniformly press the case back together. So I've been to this point twice... I'm not happy with the crank resistance (seals not installed yet). Even with old bearings, I believed it rotated easier--with seals. Unfortunately, I'm stuck with vague terms to describe the crank resistance. Best I have is that it turns, with effort, by rotating both clutch and flywheel sides with thumb/index (attached .mov). But before I put the seals on, and restore the saw, I'd like to have confidence that it's right. How easy should it rotate? If easier than I'm experiencing, does any part of my process look wrong? And from this, I hope to know how to proceed.



Unfortunately, without asking this forum, I could only gain perspective by tearing another working saw apart, but it seems experience is what I need to solve this. This is where I lack. Any ideas/feedback/comments shared will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jared

 

[Mad Professor]

Seals are same lit as a BR400, cheaper too.

I'll quit now Chi-Com parts.................

 

[JL43062]

Good to know about the seals. I'll look into that option in the future. Cross referencing for parts on a saw ~40 years old is a challenge!

I had to look up 'chi-com' on this forum to gain your reference, and agree. It's difficult today to authenticate location of manufacture, or sourced materials--even when places claim USA. I've seen vendors recommended here and will look into other options than 'Big rain forest' or 'sawzilla'. The piston/cylinder may be inferior quality and I'll have to deal with this. But at the point I'm at now, they're not. I'm focused on the crank operation.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Bob95065]

You may want to post pictures of that cylinder. If it is useable you'd be better off with it than the Chinese one you bought. Also you may consider a Meteor piston. They are very good quality and come with Caber rings which are a respected brand.

I just rebuilt a 021 which isn't near the saw a 028 is. It was overheated with a dull chain to the point that the piston transferred aluminum to the cylinder. The guy that owned it tried to rebuild if with a Chinese piston and cylinder he bought from eBay. The quality of the parts was so poor it wouldn't develop
compression. He gave it to me as a box of parts. I cleaned up the cylinder with acid and put a Meteor piston in it. If has lots of compression and runs great. I know a young couple that just bought a house with overgrown trees that it's going go.

If you don't want the original cylinder I would be interested in it. Don't go with cheap parts, especially the bearings, cylinder and piston. That's a nice saw that should serve you for years if it is repaired properly and maintained. I have one that was one of the first I replaced the piston in. It's been used for firewood fir over 10 years.

 

[JL43062]

Thanks for all the info... It's a project for me--I have several other old saws (015 av, ms251c, homelite super 2) that I've worked on to lesser degree and I like each for different reasons. So no reliance on this 028 (thankfully)--but I want to make it work.

I'm not positive the cylinder was original or if I still have it (unable to check currently as it would be at other location). From what you say, I'd regret tossing it if this is the case. Admittedly, I assumed Stihl, being the well known (arguably reliable) brand it is, would continue to sell OEM. Assumed though...

Looking at my orders from sawzilla, I purchased 'proline' brand. This brand appears to have a decent reputation from reading other threads. Do folks disagree? My original post is really focused on the fitment of crank and bearings and I posted a video of its operation. This is specifically what I'm asking for feedback on , but I'm not getting it. I'm thankful for the responses, and I get that china is crap--I'll work at researching and sourcing better parts next time.

I noted your 'meteor' branded piston--thanks. Are there any other value brands from reputable vendors worth mentioning?

Looking into the piston/cylinder I purchased seems to have good reviews from over a lengthy span of time, that read "domestic", not "saw good run long time cut good" kind of reviews. I don't doubt that they're inferior to materials/craftsmanship of 1980's OEM, but sourcing quality these days is a risk--and unfortunately, being loyal to a particular vendor can backfire too. It's a downside of the dynamic world we're in.

I consider this saw to be my class in chainsaw two stroke. And compared to blowers, trimmers, and 4 stroke mowers, I find them to be more challenging. I aim to do the best job possible and learn success and failure (still learning) along the way.

I won't even try to hold anybody accountable for any suggestions/criticism/other! I appreciate every bit of it.

 

[river of smoak]

have you tried centering the crank by tapping on the ends in a way as to not damage the threads ?

 

[Bob95065]

The ODM cylinder should have been made by Mahle and will be marked with their name.

When I press cases together I put a drill bit between the crankshaft weights.. I choose a diameter that fits snugly but not tight. Thus keeps the crankshaft from getting deformed.

I second river of stock's suggestion. Try to tap the ends of the crankshaft to center it. Use a block of wood so you don't damage the crankshaft.

 

[JL43062]

I like the tip of using drill bit to maintain crank distance--it's noted. I did tap with hammer using wood as buffer on clutch side (no difference felt) than the other (also no difference felt).wood/nut on flywheel side... But I don't know what side needs hammered due to the spacing that I'm unable to gauge with naked eye. In a bit, I'll use magnification and mark bearing casing with lead, then spin it to see if there is noticeable difference in lead removed.

Good ideas.

 

[kane98]

Take a hard rubber hammer and hit the crank first one side and check to see if it freed it up and then the other.. I just finished rebuilding a 028 wood boss and the crank was a lot harder to turn than that and even harder once I put the seals in….. it really didn’t free up until I put the flywheel on and turned it over a few times with that..make sure you take that flywheel key out before you put the seal in on that ignition side.. it will deform that rubber on the seal if you slide it over that key..good luck with it but with the way you were turning it it will be fine…

 

[JL43062]

Thanks for the personal experience feedback. I've read that the seals can be touchy. Will definitely remove 'flywheel key' obstruction--thanks for calling that out. Haven't had a chance to get back to it with interfering day job getting in the way. I hope to get back on it soon and will report back.

 

[JL43062]

I appreciate all the feedback and ideas that really helped with my first saw rebuild. Although I don't see it being my favorite saw for cutting (too heavy!), it'll be my favorite for other reasons!

 

[kane98]

Glad you got it done. Enjoy it….

 

[Bob95065]

Nice work!

My 028 Super is the first saw I rebuilt too. It's old and heavy but it's cut a lot of firewood for our house. Its a decent tool, enjoy it. I still use mine often.

Where in SE Indiana are you? I went to school in Angola. I now live in California.

 

[JL43062]

Nice work!

My 028 Super is the first saw I rebuilt too. It's old and heavy but it's cut a lot of firewood for our house. Its a decent tool, enjoy it. I still use mine often.

Where in SE Indiana are you? I went to school in Angola. I now live in California.

Hi Bob, Thanks. And good to hear. I've read of many folks having experience with them and this is partly the reason I chose to work on mine. It'll get used! And there's added comfort knowing more on general saw troubleshooting and better understanding how the 028av works. It was definitely one of the more satisfying recent projects I have pursued. Sounds like you relate.

I have a place in Aurora, IN. Angola looks to be to on N side of IN. I lived in N CA for about 15 years. Graduated from Lassen HS. I still visit my parents there and spend time backpacking in the mountains. I have many fond memories in N CA--harvesting wood with my parents was one... I don't miss the CA cities, but of the time spent, lived, in them (Los Gatos), my best times were near where you are--at the santa cruz boardwalk, and Henry Cowell park.

 

[Bob95065]

Nice. I can walk to Henry Cowell park from our house. It's amazing to live in the redwoods and you can be at the beach in 10 mins.

Yes, Angola is in NE Indiana. If you're ever out this way let me know