Stihl 029 Super Oiling Problem

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I have a feeling that the reason that he is not seeing the oil drip underneath, is that the oil is getting sucked up by the moving chain on the bottom side, but that is just a guess.
Either way, the bar stud thing is a problem that needs to be addressed either way.
 
I would think that a little grinding with a cut off wheel could take a little off of that shoulder. It wouldn't have to be too pretty, just get the shoulder below the case surface.

stud 001.JPG
 
Here, the part in blue. I don't think the threads bottom into the pan. Removing that stud without tearing it up is very hard to do, so I never bothered trying. Cannot resell a damaged part.

stud 001.JPG
 
This might be worth checking. See that hole in the front of your case?
1679429529516.png
That might be plugged up way inside where it can block oil flow to the port. I once repaired an 029 that the owner had driven in a machine screw in order to close that hole off from goop. The screw was too long and it blocked the oil flow to the oil exit port. I replaced his screw with a shorter one and that fixed it.
 
This might be worth checking. See that hole in the front of your case?
View attachment 1068334
That might be plugged up way inside where it can block oil flow to the port. I once repaired an 029 that the owner had driven in a machine screw in order to close that hole off from goop. The screw was too long and it blocked the oil flow to the oil exit port. I replaced his screw with a shorter one and that fixed it.
I had a problem with a similar model it had lost the 5mm grub screw which goes in that said hole and so no oil was coming out behind the bar/chain. Replace that screw at least to procede.
 
It’s clear, but it stop oiling on the old bar. I don’t know how mounting the bar would cause it to stop pumping oil.
Lets be clear, you replaced the entire oiler, and the oil pump drools at an idle, with the clutch cover off........the oil isn't stopped; its not aligning with the holes below the stud slot. The bars are D025 mount patterns so thats the studs or bumper glides. Something is holding the bar off the flat of the engine face. Replace the studs for 10 bucks.
 
Mill about 1/8 off of the rear stud where it goes in the saw. That one actually screws in to the crankcase itself.
If they used an aftermarket motor when they rebuilt it chances are the manufacturer didn't drill and tap it deep enough. Ideally , screw an 8 MM dies on it so that it will fix the threads when you take it off.


BTW, the bar being on or off the saw has nothing to do with the oil pump. Unless, it won't let the clutch drum turn somehow.
I had an 039 (same setup) that looked like previous owner had added glue to hold the rear stud. When I replaced the stud I had to get the glue completely out to get the stud to seat correctly.
 
Doesn't look like it's oiling enough to me. insuffiecient flow? When you throttle it up for say 10 seconds you should see oil visibly flowing from the orifice. Check that.
 
I took an 1/8 off the end of the rear stud and it’s oiling right again. Btw it’s a 10mm bolt.

It’s had the new engine for 6 months now and I don’t see why the rear stud just now became an issue.

Thank y’all.
 
Looks like the rear stud still sticks out too far. Where is the stop? Should bottom out in the plastic housing. Apparently a quality issue with the AM engine/case?
 
I would think that a little grinding with a cut off wheel could take a little off of that shoulder. It wouldn't have to be too pretty, just get the shoulder below the case surface.

View attachment 1068218
Thats what a hack would do. The studs, both, as a pair, delivered are $10 total. Nobody cobbles up a chainsaw to save 10 bucks.....
 

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