Stihl 031 pulsing

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Thank you for your excellent recommendation. I once had a timing light. I sure I can track one down. I need to research the timing specs for a 031. Right now I do not know that. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Again, thank you, Tony
The service manual with the timing spec predates MediaCat. @HarleyT might have an old paper repair manual.

MediaCat does have the parts list and there are differences in BOTH the coil and FW depending on points vs. electronic.

Coil points - 1113-400-1300
Coil electronic - 1113-400-1301
Flywheel points - 1113-400-1200
Flywheel electronic - 1113-400-1201
Trigger unit electronic - 1118-400-1001

And, yes retarded timing will make the motor run hotter as the combustion occurs when the piston is further down in the cylinder and the heat is transferred to the cylinder rather than being used to push the piston down. This was a trick also used in cars to make them warm up faster in cold weather.
 
The service manual with the timing spec predates MediaCat. @HarleyT might have an old paper repair manual.

MediaCat does have the parts list and there are differences in BOTH the coil and FW depending on points vs. electronic.

Coil points - 1113-400-1300
Coil electronic - 1113-400-1301
Flywheel points - 1113-400-1200
Flywheel electronic - 1113-400-1201
Trigger unit electronic - 1118-400-1001

And, yes retarded timing will make the motor run hotter as the combustion occurs when the piston is further down in the cylinder and the heat is transferred to the cylinder rather than being used to push the piston down. This was a trick also used in cars to make them warm up faster in cold weather.
Thank you very much for the information you provided. It will be very helpful. And thanks for the tutorial in timing, I clearly needed it.
 
@ray benson ... Link doesn't work... Starts download and then fails and then wants you to download their "diagnostic program" to fix it. Smells like malware to me!
That is one of my mediafire files, tried it and it downloaded OK. Not sure what the issue is, but it isn't malware. Could have been a pop-up.
 
That is one of my mediafire files, tried it and it downloaded OK. Not sure what the issue is, but it isn't malware.
That is one of my mediafire files, tried it and it downloaded OK. Not sure what the issue is, but it isn't malware.
My download said the same thing.... so I quit the download. Then the darned Acrobat opened and there was the file, complete. The other window was still telling me to repair download. Hell, I remember when cars had no 'chips' and I could repair them. My first Stihl saws were red, not orange....
 
Thank you for getting back to me. My saw, when running, runs very hot. Not hot enough to turn the muffler red but hot because the saw does not run long enough. Clearly there is a lot of heat coming off the saw. Right now I think your advice is "spot on"

As I conceded my skills are limited. I have never advance the time on a chainsaw. I do get the part about turning the flywheel about 3/4" clockwise but I am not sure how to do that. First, what I am thinking is I need to remove the set key and fill the left side of the key down so when I put the flywheel back on it can be positioned 3/4" to the right, that is clockwise. Without a timing wheel, which I do not have, I could mark a flywheel fin and the saw body and the get the flywheel to move around 3/4" by filing down the set key. Maybe it will take a couple of times to get it right. Just don't over file it.

Do I have the process right? Is that the way to do it?
Mate guess you have this sorted by now? If not take a look at my recent input on Stihl chainsaw kickback on starting. It tells a little how to check timing and change it by discarding the woodruff key. You need a 12V DC powered automotive timing light for my method only around A$40 over here. No degree wheel needed. You will find the timing is messed up from what you say, my 031 timing using strobe light at slow speed to simulate hand starting was around 12mm advanced. This was using rim of flywheel related to casing rim. Its trial and error once you remove the woodruff key of course.
 
I finally installed a better chip which fixed my weak coil. But the real problem with over heating was related to my oil pump spur drive gear sprocket was sticking to the crankshaft which cause so much friction on moving parts that everything got overheated. Got a new sprocket and chip, all is good with the world. The saw runs like a top.
 
I finally installed a better chip which fixed my weak coil. But the real problem with over heating was related to my oil pump spur drive gear sprocket was sticking to the crankshaft which cause so much friction on moving parts that everything got overheated. Got a new sprocket and chip, all is good with the world. The saw runs like a top.
Which chip did your saw end up with? AND is there a chip you would NOT choose to use? This has been an informative read with a nice spectrum of advice, now to retain a bit of it.
 
For my Stihl 032 I had great success with "Ignition Coil Universal SIG-01 Module." They are on ebay for around $20.00. I have used other coils on other older Stihl saws with good success but the "chip" that worked on my 032 was the SIG-01. Not a new original Stihl chip, they did not work. Not sure why because coil are pretty simple and if they show resistance via an multimeter all should be good, but not true. You can have spark but its could be intermittent or once back in the cylinder the spark is not strong enough to run the saw. Any not sure why, electrical engineering was too hard for me so I stayed away from it.
 
I have used the Kawasaki chip on my 031s with great success. But for reasons unknown to me that chip did not work on my 032. Changing the timing has its own challenges and it is really not required with any of the chips I have used.
 
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