Stihl 032 AV - worth restoring?

[OneStaple]

tl;dr version - Should I bother restoring this or just buy a new(er) saw?

I got this Stihl 032 saw used years ago. If I remember right, the previous owner was almost giving it away because it wasn't running. I think it had a bad fuel line or something that quickly solved the problem (it's been a while, so I don't remember all the details). It never went through a full overhaul, but has been solid and powerful. It always struggled a little with holding idle.

Well, life got busy (two kids born) and the saw has sat for the past ~4 years. Unfortunately, I stupidly left fuel in it, not realizing that it would sit like it did. So, since life is still busy, I took it to a Stihl dealer to have them clean it up. They looked it over and decided that the piston and cylinder need replacing, so they wouldn't do any work on it. Based on some of my more recent tear-down since I got it back, I think they only looked at the piston through the exhaust port.

I'd love to get opinions on whether you all agree with the need for a new piston and cylinder. I'm including a few pictures of the piston from the exhaust side (at top, middle, and bottom of stroke). There appears to be a decent amount of scoring on the left side toward the bottom. I'm not enough of an expert on these to decide if it's severe enough for replacement, but that wouldn't surprise me. And, if it needs a new P&C, is it worth the time/energy/money?

I imagine that if I replace the P&C, it might be worth going after some other internal components (bearings? seals?) while I'm in there. Other known items I'd need to fix/replace:

• All AV points (they've rotted out). One requires a helicoil.
• Some new bolts on the muffler. Two were missing (including one next to the port), and the other next to the port was only 1/2 screwed in. I think the shop just didn't bother putting this back together tightly, as I don't remember the muffler being loose.
• Rebuild or replace carb. The shop noted that it needs a new metering diaphragm. I've seen comments on here about going to aftermarket carbs, but I'd want to look into that more if it's worth it.
• Probably replace some items like the rubber carb boot, fuel line, etc.
• Replace air and fuel filters. Good practice.
• The saw has always slowly leaked bar oil since I got it. Not the end of the world, but it'd be nice to fix that if I have it torn apart.

Thought/suggestions? I know, I know, buy a new saw while I fix this one and keep both. But what would you do in an either-or situation?

For what it's worth, I have an 051 that I plan to rebuild (perhaps put a 075/076 cylinder and piston on it?) when I find time. Someday.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi Tyler,

Having rebuilt and restored a number of older saws, I’d say you’re in the region of about $500 Australian in parts (that’s including a good used piston - hopefully the cylinder can be saved)

Now - you can get a slightly more modern “equivalent in power” saw which is the 026 / 260 (50cc) for $500 Australian running. It’s easier to work on, more powerful and lighter. Parts are readily available and they are known for being excellent all round firewood saws.

If bang for your buck and functionality as a firewood saw are your main interests, I’d suggest selling the 032 to a vintage chainsaw restorer and putting that money towards a 260/026.

If you are doing it for the love of the build, you are prepared to do lots of searching for some possibly hard to find parts and its intended use is more for your pleasure rather than efficiency, I’d say go for it.

Hope this gives you something to ponder over, keep us updated.

Tom.

 

[OneStaple]

Tom,

Thanks, that's good info, especially with the comparison to the 026/260. Given that this saw doesn't hold any sentimental value for me, I already expect to do an extensive rebuild on my Stihl 051 in the future, the cost to get to a running saw is comparable, and that time is in short supply at the moment, I'm leaning toward selling the 032 for parts or someone else to rebuild. And I'll likely pick up a newer saw that's in running condition.

I assume relative rebuild costs on the 032 vs. buying a running 026/260 in the US is similar to Australia, but I realize that that might not be true.

I'll start a new thread so people can help me figure out what that newer saw should be.

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Tom,

Thanks, that's good info, especially with the comparison to the 026/260. Given that this saw doesn't hold any sentimental value for me, I already expect to do an extensive rebuild on my Stihl 051 in the future, the cost to get to a running saw is comparable, and that time is in short supply at the moment, I'm leaning toward selling the 032 for parts or someone else to rebuild. And I'll likely pick up a newer saw that's in running condition.

I assume relative rebuild costs on the 032 vs. buying a running 026/260 in the US is similar to Australia, but I realize that that might not be true.

I'll start a new thread so people can help me figure out what that newer saw should be.

Thanks,
Tyler

Hi Tyler, pleasure, of course others will have different opinions and advice, that’s just mine.

The 026 / 260’s will be cheaper in the USA than here in Aus - prices are just silly.

The newest model is the 261 if you don’t mind paying more. I prefer the feel of the 026 / 260 - it’s a slimmer and more compact design and you have the freedom to adjust the carby. However the AV and filtration is better on the 261 as is fuel burn.

Just a few things to ponder over.

 

[cbfarmall]

Based on that picture you don't need a piston or cylinder. Worst case, I'm sure good used sets are around. How's the compression? You said it ran with good power the last time you used it. Any reason to think it changed while sitting? The ignition is what I'd be most concerned with. Is it electronic or points and condenser? Rebuild the carb, forget aftermarket. Get a new impulse line and crank seals. Check the intake boot. The stripped threads are another matter. I keep timesert kits, helicoil type inserts suck.

In any case, that is not 500 dollars worth of parts. Maybe 100.

Best to go shopping armed with your own part numbers.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Based on that picture you don't need a piston or cylinder. Worst case, I'm sure good used sets are around. How's the compression? You said it ran with good power the last time you used it. Any reason to think it changed while sitting? The ignition is what I'd be most concerned with. Is it electronic or points and condenser? Rebuild the carb, forget aftermarket. Get a new impulse line and crank seals. Check the intake boot. The stripped threads are another matter. I keep timesert kits, helicoil type inserts suck.

In any case, that is not 500 dollars worth of parts. Maybe 100.

Best to go shopping armed with your own part numbers.

Agreed - looks like the saw has been running rich, lot's of carbon and rings may be sticking in the groove. I'd pull the jug and check it more closely before making a decision.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Ask yourself this- can this saw do what I require it to do? Do I intend to use it several hours a day, several hours a week..... a month.... a year?
Am I confident enough in my own abilities to tear it down, clean it up and gauge what needs replacing and what can be reused?

Then if you decide to keep it, tear it down and clean it up- as above, on evidence provided, I would guess you don't need a new piston or cylinder yet- rings might be a good idea, but from what I see.... IF you clean all the carbon out of the port and combustion chamber before lumps of it fall back into the cylinder and toast the saw for good. You might find a bit of carbon has already done the rounds and jammed your rings into the piston grooves.
Pistons are wonderful things- they can take a lot of abuse and look real ugly- but still perform okay after cleaning up and checking the ring grooves are close to correct sizing, then a new set of rings fitted and they run for years.
Certainly clean out and kit the carb.
Not sure if you can get such a thing, but after market AV mounts will certainly be cheaper and probably hold together okay for a light use saw- at the end of the day it is an 032 and you won't be pro logging with it.
Clean the air and fuel filters- if they appear to be in okay condition after cleaning- use them! Same with all the rubber components- if they aint broke, don't fix em.

Muffler bolts- if they were all there when you took the saw to the shop- go back and ask them for all your saw back!
So, following that, you should be able to get it running again for well short of half a thousand dollars- as long as you do not go nuts on polish for it afterwards.

 

[Gugi47]

tl;dr version - Should I bother restoring this or just buy a new(er) saw?

I got this Stihl 032 saw used years ago. If I remember right, the previous owner was almost giving it away because it wasn't running. I think it had a bad fuel line or something that quickly solved the problem (it's been a while, so I don't remember all the details). It never went through a full overhaul, but has been solid and powerful. It always struggled a little with holding idle.

Well, life got busy (two kids born) and the saw has sat for the past ~4 years. Unfortunately, I stupidly left fuel in it, not realizing that it would sit like it did. So, since life is still busy, I took it to a Stihl dealer to have them clean it up. They looked it over and decided that the piston and cylinder need replacing, so they wouldn't do any work on it. Based on some of my more recent tear-down since I got it back, I think they only looked at the piston through the exhaust port.

I'd love to get opinions on whether you all agree with the need for a new piston and cylinder. I'm including a few pictures of the piston from the exhaust side (at top, middle, and bottom of stroke). There appears to be a decent amount of scoring on the left side toward the bottom. I'm not enough of an expert on these to decide if it's severe enough for replacement, but that wouldn't surprise me. And, if it needs a new P&C, is it worth the time/energy/money?

I imagine that if I replace the P&C, it might be worth going after some other internal components (bearings? seals?) while I'm in there. Other known items I'd need to fix/replace:

• All AV points (they've rotted out). One requires a helicoil.
• Some new bolts on the muffler. Two were missing (including one next to the port), and the other next to the port was only 1/2 screwed in. I think the shop just didn't bother putting this back together tightly, as I don't remember the muffler being loose.
• Rebuild or replace carb. The shop noted that it needs a new metering diaphragm. I've seen comments on here about going to aftermarket carbs, but I'd want to look into that more if it's worth it.
• Probably replace some items like the rubber carb boot, fuel line, etc.
• Replace air and fuel filters. Good practice.
• The saw has always slowly leaked bar oil since I got it. Not the end of the world, but it'd be nice to fix that if I have it torn apart.

Thought/suggestions? I know, I know, buy a new saw while I fix this one and keep both. But what would you do in an either-or situation?

For what it's worth, I have an 051 that I plan to rebuild (perhaps put a 075/076 cylinder and piston on it?) when I find time. Someday.

Thanks,
Tyler

No is not worth it. For the money, you spend on the AV32, you better buy a new MS250 new. Has a good saw. Thas what I would do.

 

[OneStaple]

Based on that picture you don't need a piston or cylinder. Worst case, I'm sure good used sets are around. How's the compression? You said it ran with good power the last time you used it. Any reason to think it changed while sitting? The ignition is what I'd be most concerned with. Is it electronic or points and condenser?

I really should have checked compression before my initial post. I just checked, and it reads out 165 psi. Sooo, that seems like plenty. It has electronic ignition. Do you have concerns with that?

Ask yourself this- can this saw do what I require it to do? Do I intend to use it several hours a day, several hours a week..... a month.... a year?
Am I confident enough in my own abilities to tear it down, clean it up and gauge what needs replacing and what can be reused?

Cutting wood isn't my profession, nor do I heat my house with wood, so yes, this saw has been capable of doing what I ask of it in the past. And, once I get my 051 running again, that can handle anything that this one can't.

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, so tearing it down and fixing isn't really a concern (I kind of enjoy it usually). It's more of the time investment for me that can be a factor with two little kids. And I haven't done a complete tear-down of a chainsaw yet, but they're fairly simple engines (I've rebuilt a 4-stroke motorcycle engine though). I freely admit that I have things to learn.

So, given that the piston/cylinder currently appear functional, I guess I'm changing my plan. New plan is:

1. Open up the piston/cylinder. Check for any additional damage to verify if this is worth the investment, and otherwise clean things up (carbon buildup, etc.) and put back together.
2. New rings on the piston. Is this just a smart move once I have things open?
3. Do a carb kit.
4. Gaskets at all applicable locations.
5. New AV mounts.
6. New impulse line and crank seals.
7. Check intake boot (I think I replaced this about 10 years ago).
8. Clean fuel and air filters. Replace if necessary. Do they make a better air filter for this saw?
9. Fix stripped threads, replace missing bolts.
10. Hope everything works, tune it, and go have fun with it.

Anything else I should look to replace while I have things open? Bearings?

Tyler

 

[cbfarmall]

I really should have checked compression before my initial post. I just checked, and it reads out 165 psi. Sooo, that seems like plenty. It has electronic ignition. Do you have concerns with that?

I have zero concern personally. For your part, it is either going to work or not, not much in between other than plugs and checking for shorts and broken wires. I don't know about the availability of new parts if yours quits. Not much point worrying about it I suppose.

This is kind of thing that gives me pause collecting the early electronic ignition saws. Dolmars, Homelite and Pioneer Prestolites, Stihl and Husky SEM/Bosch, etc... They are unique to the saws and new stuff hasn't been made for a long time. Points and condensor ignitions can be made to work.

As long as yours works, carry on.

I wouldn't worry about bearings as long as they feel good. If you're going to pull the cylinder, might as well throw a set of rings at it. Should be common as dirt.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I really should have checked compression before my initial post. I just checked, and it reads out 165 psi. Sooo, that seems like plenty. It has electronic ignition. Do you have concerns with that?



Cutting wood isn't my profession, nor do I heat my house with wood, so yes, this saw has been capable of doing what I ask of it in the past. And, once I get my 051 running again, that can handle anything that this one can't.

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, so tearing it down and fixing isn't really a concern (I kind of enjoy it usually). It's more of the time investment for me that can be a factor with two little kids. And I haven't done a complete tear-down of a chainsaw yet, but they're fairly simple engines (I've rebuilt a 4-stroke motorcycle engine though). I freely admit that I have things to learn.

So, given that the piston/cylinder currently appear functional, I guess I'm changing my plan. New plan is:

1. Open up the piston/cylinder. Check for any additional damage to verify if this is worth the investment, and otherwise clean things up (carbon buildup, etc.) and put back together.
2. New rings on the piston. Is this just a smart move once I have things open?
3. Do a carb kit.
4. Gaskets at all applicable locations.
5. New AV mounts.
6. New impulse line and crank seals.
7. Check intake boot (I think I replaced this about 10 years ago).
8. Clean fuel and air filters. Replace if necessary. Do they make a better air filter for this saw?
9. Fix stripped threads, replace missing bolts.
10. Hope everything works, tune it, and go have fun with it.

Anything else I should look to replace while I have things open? Bearings?

Tyler

My only other suggestion would be a vac/pressure test before tearing it down.

 

[farmhard]

tl;dr version - Should I bother restoring this or just buy a new(er) saw?

I got this Stihl 032 saw used years ago. If I remember right, the previous owner was almost giving it away because it wasn't running. I think it had a bad fuel line or something that quickly solved the problem (it's been a while, so I don't remember all the details). It never went through a full overhaul, but has been solid and powerful. It always struggled a little with holding idle.

Well, life got busy (two kids born) and the saw has sat for the past ~4 years. Unfortunately, I stupidly left fuel in it, not realizing that it would sit like it did. So, since life is still busy, I took it to a Stihl dealer to have them clean it up. They looked it over and decided that the piston and cylinder need replacing, so they wouldn't do any work on it. Based on some of my more recent tear-down since I got it back, I think they only looked at the piston through the exhaust port.

I'd love to get opinions on whether you all agree with the need for a new piston and cylinder. I'm including a few pictures of the piston from the exhaust side (at top, middle, and bottom of stroke). There appears to be a decent amount of scoring on the left side toward the bottom. I'm not enough of an expert on these to decide if it's severe enough for replacement, but that wouldn't surprise me. And, if it needs a new P&C, is it worth the time/energy/money?

I imagine that if I replace the P&C, it might be worth going after some other internal components (bearings? seals?) while I'm in there. Other known items I'd need to fix/replace:

• All AV points (they've rotted out). One requires a helicoil.
• Some new bolts on the muffler. Two were missing (including one next to the port), and the other next to the port was only 1/2 screwed in. I think the shop just didn't bother putting this back together tightly, as I don't remember the muffler being loose.
• Rebuild or replace carb. The shop noted that it needs a new metering diaphragm. I've seen comments on here about going to aftermarket carbs, but I'd want to look into that more if it's worth it.
• Probably replace some items like the rubber carb boot, fuel line, etc.
• Replace air and fuel filters. Good practice.
• The saw has always slowly leaked bar oil since I got it. Not the end of the world, but it'd be nice to fix that if I have it torn apart.

Thought/suggestions? I know, I know, buy a new saw while I fix this one and keep both. But what would you do in an either-or situation?

For what it's worth, I have an 051 that I plan to rebuild (perhaps put a 075/076 cylinder and piston on it?) when I find time. Someday.

Thanks,
Tyler

Your compression seems fine to me. I would do the rings and seals with new impulse and fuel hoses. I would stay away from aftermarket as who knows what the quality is. Stihl OEM rings don't seem to be that much IMO.
I do a lot of the older saws and if your piston and jug were shot then I would just buy another saw for $50 or less that doesn't run and swap out the parts you have that are good.
Now that being said......I have a pile of 030's here that I keep buying parts saws better than the ones I am fixing. The issues are when the parts are worth more than the saw. The 030 is the same as the 031 and 032 yet everything is different so beware of that when you look at listings and make sure to get the part specific to your saw.
Your idle issue was likely a dried out metering dia.

 

[farmhard]

tl;dr version - Should I bother restoring this or just buy a new(er) saw?

I got this Stihl 032 saw used years ago. If I remember right, the previous owner was almost giving it away because it wasn't running. I think it had a bad fuel line or something that quickly solved the problem (it's been a while, so I don't remember all the details). It never went through a full overhaul, but has been solid and powerful. It always struggled a little with holding idle.

Well, life got busy (two kids born) and the saw has sat for the past ~4 years. Unfortunately, I stupidly left fuel in it, not realizing that it would sit like it did. So, since life is still busy, I took it to a Stihl dealer to have them clean it up. They looked it over and decided that the piston and cylinder need replacing, so they wouldn't do any work on it. Based on some of my more recent tear-down since I got it back, I think they only looked at the piston through the exhaust port.

I'd love to get opinions on whether you all agree with the need for a new piston and cylinder. I'm including a few pictures of the piston from the exhaust side (at top, middle, and bottom of stroke). There appears to be a decent amount of scoring on the left side toward the bottom. I'm not enough of an expert on these to decide if it's severe enough for replacement, but that wouldn't surprise me. And, if it needs a new P&C, is it worth the time/energy/money?

I imagine that if I replace the P&C, it might be worth going after some other internal components (bearings? seals?) while I'm in there. Other known items I'd need to fix/replace:

• All AV points (they've rotted out). One requires a helicoil.
• Some new bolts on the muffler. Two were missing (including one next to the port), and the other next to the port was only 1/2 screwed in. I think the shop just didn't bother putting this back together tightly, as I don't remember the muffler being loose.
• Rebuild or replace carb. The shop noted that it needs a new metering diaphragm. I've seen comments on here about going to aftermarket carbs, but I'd want to look into that more if it's worth it.
• Probably replace some items like the rubber carb boot, fuel line, etc.
• Replace air and fuel filters. Good practice.
• The saw has always slowly leaked bar oil since I got it. Not the end of the world, but it'd be nice to fix that if I have it torn apart.

Thought/suggestions? I know, I know, buy a new saw while I fix this one and keep both. But what would you do in an either-or situation?

For what it's worth, I have an 051 that I plan to rebuild (perhaps put a 075/076 cylinder and piston on it?) when I find time. Someday.

Thanks,
Tyler

Also in not ideal situations we have chucked pistons in the lathe and smoothed out a little when we cant get new. Depends on the warranty.

 

[OneStaple]

I've rebuilt the carb with a new kit and replaced a few other things. I'm currently just waiting on a few new pieces (such as AV mounts and an exhaust gasket) to arrive from overseas (slooooow process).

I think I also need to replace the air filter. The flocking has seen better days, and you can see straight through in about 25% of the screen. I would imagine that the flocking will continue to deteriorate and pieces will eventually go through the carb and into the cylinder. There seem to be a lot of aftermarket flocked air filters for the 032. Are these decent, or should I aim for OEM?

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[farmhard]

I've rebuilt the carb with a new kit and replaced a few other things. I'm currently just waiting on a few new pieces (such as AV mounts and an exhaust gasket) to arrive from overseas (slooooow process).

I think I also need to replace the air filter. The flocking has seen better days, and you can see straight through in about 25% of the screen. I would imagine that the flocking will continue to deteriorate and pieces will eventually go through the carb and into the cylinder. There seem to be a lot of aftermarket flocked air filters for the 032. Are these decent, or should I aim for OEM?

Thanks,
Tyler

If you can afford it go OEM. There are problems with off shore rubber splitting and degrading. If you cant afford OEM, then consider you are not paying somebody else's labour bill.....and buy OEM. If something is cheap and easy then go for it BUT 90% of the offshore that arrived here this year was not useable in any way. What did work came back.

 

[OneStaple]

If you can afford it go OEM. There are problems with off shore rubber splitting and degrading. If you cant afford OEM, then consider you are not paying somebody else's labour bill.....and buy OEM. If something is cheap and easy then go for it BUT 90% of the offshore that arrived here this year was not useable in any way. What did work came back.

Part of the trouble that I'm having is finding an OEM air filter for this saw (other than ebay). Perhaps just too old? Some sites seem to try to be vague about being aftermarket, but they all appear to be some version of aftermarket.

Tyler

 

[farmhard]

Part of the trouble that I'm having is finding an OEM air filter for this saw (other than ebay). Perhaps just too old? Some sites seem to try to be vague about being aftermarket, but they all appear to be some version of aftermarket.

Tyler

Yes you are correct. I have had several issues with them being vague and when they sell me the wrong thing they do not even have the courtesy to correct their post. Based on what you are spending I would revert to my original post to find a non running parts saw with compression.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Honestly, for just an air filter- if you cannot find an OEM one because the model of saw is just too old and nobody has any new old stock laying about- buy a Chinese one. I mean how terribly wrong can they get a plastic box with a bit of filtering screening? If it doesn't fit perfectly you can cut your own gaskets or apply some sealant. Worst case scenario might be incomplete filtration and fine particles entering the combustion chamber causing wear. Best case scenario- it works.
The other option is to remove all the flocking off your original filter and hot glue a cut out from the filter material sheet that comes in the packet with vacuum cleaner bags, the white sheet material your wife most likely throws out once all the bags have been used.

 

[farmhard]

Honestly, for just an air filter- if you cannot find an OEM one because the model of saw is just too old and nobody has any new old stock laying about- buy a Chinese one. I mean how terribly wrong can they get a plastic box with a bit of filtering screening? If it doesn't fit perfectly you can cut your own gaskets or apply some sealant. Worst case scenario might be incomplete filtration and fine particles entering the combustion chamber causing wear. Best case scenario- it works.
The other option is to remove all the flocking off your original filter and hot glue a cut out from the filter material sheet that comes in the packet with vacuum cleaner bags, the white sheet material your wife most likely thro

Honestly, for just an air filter- if you cannot find an OEM one because the model of saw is just too old and nobody has any new old stock laying about- buy a Chinese one. I mean how terribly wrong can they get a plastic box with a bit of filtering screening? If it doesn't fit perfectly you can cut your own gaskets or apply some sealant. Worst case scenario might be incomplete filtration and fine particles entering the combustion chamber causing wear. Best case scenario- it works.
The other option is to remove all the flocking off your original filter and hot glue a cut out from the filter material sheet that comes in the packet with vacuum cleaner bags, the white sheet material your wife most likely throws out once all the bags have been used.

Yes you are correct. I have had several issues with them being vague and when they sell me the wrong thing they do not even have the courtesy to correct their post. Based on what you are spending I would revert to my original post to find a non running parts saw with compression.

tl;dr version - Should I bother restoring this or just buy a new(er) saw?

I got this Stihl 032 saw used years ago. If I remember right, the previous owner was almost giving it away because it wasn't running. I think it had a bad fuel line or something that quickly solved the problem (it's been a while, so I don't remember all the details). It never went through a full overhaul, but has been solid and powerful. It always struggled a little with holding idle.

Well, life got busy (two kids born) and the saw has sat for the past ~4 years. Unfortunately, I stupidly left fuel in it, not realizing that it would sit like it did. So, since life is still busy, I took it to a Stihl dealer to have them clean it up. They looked it over and decided that the piston and cylinder need replacing, so they wouldn't do any work on it. Based on some of my more recent tear-down since I got it back, I think they only looked at the piston through the exhaust port.

I'd love to get opinions on whether you all agree with the need for a new piston and cylinder. I'm including a few pictures of the piston from the exhaust side (at top, middle, and bottom of stroke). There appears to be a decent amount of scoring on the left side toward the bottom. I'm not enough of an expert on these to decide if it's severe enough for replacement, but that wouldn't surprise me. And, if it needs a new P&C, is it worth the time/energy/money?

I imagine that if I replace the P&C, it might be worth going after some other internal components (bearings? seals?) while I'm in there. Other known items I'd need to fix/replace:

• All AV points (they've rotted out). One requires a helicoil.
• Some new bolts on the muffler. Two were missing (including one next to the port), and the other next to the port was only 1/2 screwed in. I think the shop just didn't bother putting this back together tightly, as I don't remember the muffler being loose.
• Rebuild or replace carb. The shop noted that it needs a new metering diaphragm. I've seen comments on here about going to aftermarket carbs, but I'd want to look into that more if it's worth it.
• Probably replace some items like the rubber carb boot, fuel line, etc.
• Replace air and fuel filters. Good practice.
• The saw has always slowly leaked bar oil since I got it. Not the end of the world, but it'd be nice to fix that if I have it torn apart.

Thought/suggestions? I know, I know, buy a new saw while I fix this one and keep both. But what would you do in an either-or situation?

For what it's worth, I have an 051 that I plan to rebuild (perhaps put a 075/076 cylinder and piston on it?) when I find time. Someday.

Thanks,
Tyler

One of the issues revolvong around off shore parts I will try to relate using a TS350. The filters are like top hats. The "new" ones have hard plastic. It doesn't seat. If you are lucky it will seat but the casting lines are off and you need to trim them. I have had the plastic split in the corners before install from poor manufacturing. On top of that I had steel wires sticking out the side. All is fine if you don't intend on using the saw. The TS is a cement saw so the offshore is certain death. Stihl filters are about $8.
The seller was JET who refused to fix the issue.
The 032 maybe different story, I haven't looked but I just bought an OEM for one of my 041 saws for about $15 + shipping.
There is a post below about wrapping up a blanket or something which will work but decreased airflow could cause a lean condition when it gets used. I'm not saying it's a bad idea but I would prefer NOT to do so.

If you are buying bearings on eBay.....DON'T.
I would go through Stihl or someone reputable. I get the nubers off the sides and go through my bearing house or auto parts store for the older models and knock out the shields. One of the more common bearings is used in ceiling fans, GM alternators etc I'd have to look but I think 6203. I now stock several sizes so not sure. I have had NEW bearings from ebay one dealer apparantly very reputable sold me absolute junk worse than what I took out and his ID ends in "chainsawparts" who also refused to return.
Farmertec has bearings for $0.49 but they don't last long. I use SKF of Hunter from the 4 skids of fans sitting here withbroken glass.
I know this is off topic, please just be aware.