Stihl 034 Tillotson HK43B Carb kit??

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So I did some digging on this topic of the 036 filter fitment issues. It seems the solution is to swap out the tank vent to a more universal vent style which allows the 036 filter to mate up to the carb.
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That still will not work. The guide piece and the twist lock on the outer plastic cover will not engage with the stem on the air filter to hold the cover in place. Worse yet, the outer cover will not drop down all the way primarily because the air filter projects up too far. At least that's what I ran into.
 
Well I'm now at a loss with the Tillotson hk43b, the rebuild kit didn't fix the carb, I have to detune the saw to get it running on a cold start and then retune once the saw is hot and I'm constantly having to adjust it to make it run good. To make worse the carb is leaking slightly around the module plate so I believe it has warped. I decided to try the new Tillotson he20a carb with the metering horn and I'll swap out the horn for a flat plate. I'll keep this thread updated with my results.
 
Well I'm now at a loss with the Tillotson hk43b, the rebuild kit didn't fix the carb, I have to detune the saw to get it running on a cold start and then retune once the saw is hot and I'm constantly having to adjust it to make it run good. To make worse the carb is leaking slightly around the module plate so I believe it has warped. I decided to try the new Tillotson he20a carb with the metering horn and I'll swap out the horn for a flat plate. I'll keep this thread updated with my results.
I got mine to run without the swap out. I dropped in a small chunk of foam rubber into the bottom horn to block out sawdust. That allows some air flow that allows it to operate because a complete block off with your finger will kill the engine. Regardless, if you install that flat plate, it might work. Please let us know.
 
I got mine to run without the swap out. I dropped in a small chunk of foam rubber into the bottom horn to block out sawdust. That allows some air flow that allows it to operate because a complete block off with your finger will kill the engine. Regardless, if you install that flat plate, it might work. Please let us know.
Not sure with the Tillys, but Walbro carb bottoms seem to switch out fine, 026 260 stuff
 
I got mine to run without the swap out. I dropped in a small chunk of foam rubber into the bottom horn to block out sawdust. That allows some air flow that allows it to operate because a complete block off with your finger will kill the engine. Regardless, if you install that flat plate, it might work. Please let us know.
Not sure with the Tillys, but Walbro carb bottoms seem to switch out fine, 026 260 stuff
Thank you guys for the continued interest! I'll let you know how the process goes next week when the carb arrives. I've been referencing the info from this thread: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/help-with-early-stihl-034-problems.318476/
 
Quick question guys, when the master control lever is all the way down, should the choke butterfly be closed all the way or mostly closed or partially closed? When I have the MCL all the way down it’s only partially closed which makes me think It could have something to do with hard starting when cold?
 
Quick update:
I finally spent the money on a leak down tester since I was going crazy trying to track down the problem. Although the old carb pressure tested bad. The new carb did not fix the problem and when I tested the saw under pressure and vac It failed both and the base gasket looks to be leaking pretty bad under pressure. I hope the case halves seal is okay [emoji51]
 
You can add a smear of sealant to the base gasket and reassemble. May fix your issue.

Does your carb rebuild hold pressure? I had issues with this model carb holding. I believe they recommend soaking the gaskets in some mix before assembly to let them swell a bit.
 
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