Stihl 034S Clutch Springs?

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They have used a ton of mish mosh parts over the years on the brakes, chain adjusts, clutches, etc...

Almost every chain adjust I have on every model says 1125, and nearly every brake lever detent (the one with the little spring connected) says 1121. I have has a few 1125 saws with 1128 brake shoes. The 1128 drum isn’t as deep as the later 1125 pro drum. There are small and large washers on the 1128, and the oiler worms use round wire on the 1125 vs square on the 1128 series. The gears and bushing different too, I think the white 1128 gear are thicker with a slightly looser bushing. You gotta just try trial and error sometime steve. For sure, you can’t add the grenade washer with the older size clutch or the oil gear will bind and try to drive the drum all the time. This will cause chain creep at low rpm and well as heat buildup.

All I can say is that I have been in your shoes with this issue. 1125 seem to have many variations. I’ve even had issues with the choke levers being different for different tanks. I had one old 1125 with an OEM oil pump with no Min/Max lever or tab, this one had a round screw that you rotated all the way out for more oil or all the way in for less. The case acted as a stop for the screw. Confirmed it was oem and only saw one like it ever.
 
They have used a ton of mish mosh parts over the years on the brakes, chain adjusts, clutches, etc...

Almost every chain adjust I have on every model says 1125, and nearly every brake lever detent (the one with the little spring connected) says 1121. I have has a few 1125 saws with 1128 brake shoes. The 1128 drum isn’t as deep as the later 1125 pro drum. There are small and large washers on the 1128, and the oiler worms use round wire on the 1125 vs square on the 1128 series. The gears and bushing different too, I think the white 1128 gear are thicker with a slightly looser bushing. You gotta just try trial and error sometime steve. For sure, you can’t add the grenade washer with the older size clutch or the oil gear will bind and try to drive the drum all the time. This will cause chain creep at low rpm and well as heat buildup.

All I can say is that I have been in your shoes with this issue. 1125 seem to have many variations. I’ve even had issues with the choke levers being different for different tanks. I had one old 1125 with an OEM oil pump with no Min/Max lever or tab, this one had a round screw that you rotated all the way out for more oil or all the way in for less. The case acted as a stop for the screw. Confirmed it was oem and only saw one like it ever.
I am going to use what I got for now and keep my eyes open for a used upgrade clutch. It appears that the main thing is that the carrier has to match the saw type. According to the IPL the Super should have the beefier clutch on it. Mine doesn't. So either it was at one replaced with the wrong one or this was changed after the saw was built.

Mine also has the older multi turn screw oil pump. They were still using this design in 93 when this saw was made. It takes a bit of "fiddling" to figure out the correct adjustment.
 
I hear ya Steve. I understand what the IPL is saying, but I have never noted any HD type clutch on the 034S vs all other 1125’s. Ive probably have had over 100 apart as well.

I believe the ones that dont use the grenade washer have a slighly thicker threaded area of the center Shoe carrier section. The spacing when fully threaded on allows them to not bind the worm gear.

This has at least been my exprerience. YMMV.
 
The versions without a large "grenade" washer have a shim washer between the worm gear sleeve and the clutch instead. There seems to be 4-6 versions of clutch and 2 sizes of spring, my question is simple. What version is the widest to apply the most force before allowing slippage against the clutch drum.
 
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