Stihl 044 bearing slop?

[Kpearce2051]

Hello, im new to the site and have been reading tons of stihl 044 10 mm wrist pin content. This particular saw was my grandfather's and he passed away in 2000. It was borrowed a few times by my Uncle's and always placed back into the garage. my grandmother was finally ready to start getting rid of the stuff and offered me the saw. I took it to a local stihl shop to have it looked over and they told me that the piston and cylinder were scored and to junk the saw. Ohh and buy a new one from them... I would get a $50 credit towards a new saw if they could have mine...ermm I don't think so.... I would really like to rebuild the saw so after a lot of research and ording parts I disassembled the saw tonight. I found a piece of the piston actually in the muffler. After getting the piston itself off I feel like there is too much slop in the piston rod the bearing crank shaft is sloppy from side to side. is this normal? How much is to much? took a small video and will try and post it. This is the 1st saw I've ever completely disassembled and I was really hoping to not have to crack the case. And change besring or even out a new crank shaft in it.Thank you guys in advance and please go easy on me.View attachment 956658View attachment 956659

 

[grizz55chev]

Hello, im new to the site and have been reading tons of stihl 044 10 mm wrist pin content. This particular saw was my grandfather's and he passed away in 2000. It was borrowed a few times by my Uncle's and always placed back into the garage. my grandmother was finally ready to start getting rid of the stuff and offered me the saw. I took it to a local stihl shop to have it looked over and they told me that the piston and cylinder were scored and to junk the saw. Ohh and buy a new one from them... I would get a $50 credit towards a new saw if they could have mine...ermm I don't think so.... I would really like to rebuild the saw so after a lot of research and ording parts I disassembled the saw tonight. I found a piece of the piston actually in the muffler. After getting the piston itself off I feel like there is too much slop in the piston rod the bearing crank shaft is sloppy from side to side. is this normal? How much is to much? took a small video and will try and post it. This is the 1st saw I've ever completely disassembled and I was really hoping to not have to crack the case. And change besring or even out a new crank shaft in it.Thank you guys in advance and please go easy on me.View attachment 956658View attachment 956659

Side to side play is not a big issue, up an down play is. With a little work and some investment in parts, you could possibly have a very desirable saw.

 

[Kpearce2051]

Side to side play is ot a big issue, up an down play is. With a little work and some investment in parts, you could possibly have a very desirable saw.

I cant appreciate any up and down play just the side to side. I have it tore apart this far should i just stick with my plan and do the piston and cylinder or bite the bullet and pull the crankshaft out? The more i read, about the 044 saw the more i get pissed that the stihl dealer wanted me to junk it to them... everyone seam to rave about what a nice saw the 044 is...

 

[trains]

if the big end bearing, ie bottom end of the conrod is ok, and no up and down movement, then get a new piston, and small end, or piston gudgeon bearing, as the bearing dosent come with the new piston, and rebuild the saw.
What is the cylinder like ? did the broken bit of piston damage the cylinder, assuming it did.
I would put a new genuine piston/ cyld combo on it, new base gasket, put a carb kit in it and replace the fuel and impulse lines/ filters, and call it good.
Chances are it was used with old gas, or poorly mixed gas and run by someone with no mechanical empathy.
The pictures you put up indicate there is very little residual oil in the crank, ie mix issue.

Still, you need to narrow down why it failed, and a pressure vac test once the cyld is refitted would tell you if the seals were ok or not, again, not difficult to do, and you dont have to split the case, or take the crank out etc. From the photos, the big end bearing on the crank, and its cage look good.

Take your time, its a saw worth rebuilding.

 

[Huntaholic]

Id be tempted to clean the cylinder up, replace the piston with a meteor and caber rings, then run it!

 

[grizz55chev]

Id be tempted to clean the cylinder up, replace the piston with a meteor and caber rings, then run it!

Condition of the cylinder is likely pooched, from the looks of that piston. Meteor makes a reasonably priced aftermarket replacement cylinder and piston kit that won't break the bank. It comes with Caber rings so after its fitted and a pressure vac test performed, should be a solid runner! As already stated, carb kit, new impulse and fuel lines, get ready to cut wood.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

You would be surprised how a bad cylinder will clean up with some care and elbow grease
A 10mm 044 cylinder is definantly worth the effort to try and save

 

[Huntaholic]

You would be surprised how a bad cylinder will clean up with some care and elbow grease
A 10mm 044 cylinder is definantly worth the effort to try and save

As long as its not gouged completely through the plating, they WILL clean up and run pretty dang good with a new piston and rings. Ive pulled some cylinders out of the scrap pile and worked on them for hours by hand when I couldn't find a replacement. ex.- 390xp, 562xp,

 

[Kpearce2051]

Thank you for the replies. I bought a big bore kit for it a few months ago but after some more consideration I think I'm going to try and clean the stock cylinder up and put in a meteor piston eith caber rings in it. I bought a new Zama 36, All new gas lines/ impulse line, new air filters, ported exhaust and new intake boot for it also. Here are few pictures of the cylinder.

 

[Huntaholic]

That SHOULD clean up. Do it by hand, don't use a hone! Scotchbrite pad, and fine sandpaper is what I use.

 

[Kpearce2051]

I'm seeing on different threads about a crazy amount of side to side slop with the meteor piston on a 10mm yet everyone still reccommends them.. why is this.?... If I plan on keeping oem jug do I try and find an OEM piston? I'm sure they aren't cheap...

 

[grizz55chev]

Meteor is OEM quality, it's your wallet, so if it helps you sleep, go with yer gut.

 

[Woodslasher]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362916331353?epid=8009479382&hash=item547f7fbf59:g:QPkAAOSwsB9eSDLr

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I have a meteor piston in my 10mm 044 and haven't had any problems.

 

[SteveSr]

I'm seeing on different threads about a crazy amount of side to side slop with the meteor piston on a 10mm yet everyone still reccommends them.. why is this.?... If I plan on keeping oem jug do I try and find an OEM piston? I'm sure they aren't cheap...

Before you get carried away... it would be good to figure out why the piston broke and where all of the pieces went... Into the crank bearings, perhaps? Or did the crank or big end bearings start to come apart and throw bits into the crankcase causing the piston to break?

There was also a reason that Stihl upgraded from 10mm to 12mm pin. What did the small end bearing and pin look like? This looks like there is more going on than just a lean seizure.

 

[Kpearce2051]

I really can't answer your question fully. I took the saw from my grandmothers garage straight to the stihl dealer to be looked over because gas had been left in. When they called to tell me the saw was junk they found some of the piston in the muffler I went and picked it up. (May). It's been Sitting in my garage collecting dust and i have been reading about the potential worth of the saw. (sentimental and monetary) I decided to try and rebuilt it myself. I disassembled it yesterday finally after some parts came in. I haven't found any other metal pieces.... are you suggesting I crack the case in two and replace (crank bearing and case bearings) everything to be sure? Worst case scenario if I just replace the piston, and it happens to be case bearings I will potential blow the saw up again? I just spent about 3 hours hand sanding the cylinder... I started with 200 grit and went to 1200. Does this look acceptable?

 

[cookies]

yes open the case and replace the seals, bearings and gaskets since all that metal went through them plus you do not want to find you have a bad seal or bearing after your done.

 

[SteveSr]

I haven't found any other metal pieces.... are you suggesting I crack the case in two and replace (crank bearing and case bearings) everything to be sure?

Sort of a roll of the dice. Just because you don't see any more metal doesn't mean that it isn't in there.

At an absolute minimum I would pull the clutch and flywheel and clean up the crankcase so that you can see what may come out when you flush the crankcase. Next fill the crankcase with mix gas and rotate the crank multiple times to try to get any crap out of the bearings. Dump the crankcase in a clear container and look for metal chips in the wash. Repeat a couple of times until it comes out clean.

Next pull the crank seals (which should be replaced anyway) so that you can inspect the bearings. If you see any more crud flush that out as well.

Worst case scenario if I just replace the piston, and it happens to be case bearings I will potential blow the saw up again?

Absolutely! And you might trash the cylinder this time.

I just spent about 3 hours hand sanding the cylinder... I started with 200 grit and went to 1200. Does this look acceptable?

Need better photos but it loks like there is still some transfer below the exhaust port which needs to be removed. 1200 is way too fine. 320 is probably as far as I would go. You need a rough surface to seat the new rings. 1200 will never seat. You are looking for a crosshatch pattern.

See:




Although @Mastermind Worksaws uses a Foredom tool you should be fine with hand sanding or scotchbrite on a drill.

Once you are done cleaning the cylinder be sure to WASH IT OUT THOROUGHLY with hot water and dish soap to remove any remaining grit.

This is a marathon not a sprint!

 

[Huntaholic]

That cylinder will run! If it were me, Id rinse the case out good, blow it out with compressed air, rinse again, replace the seals, reassemble it all and run it!

 

[angelo c]

I use small wood dowels and a regular battery operated Dewalt hand drill.