Stihl 044 not turning over

[Crispexx]

Well I apologize if people think I was being misleading, simply trying to pass on my experience when a very similar thing happened to me with the same saw. The “it was running now it won’t even pop” is what made me think of the timing.


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[Chanakos]

I just had it running for about 15 seconds the. It died. I could hear it was going to die/bog out. What can I try from here?

 

[Crispexx]

I just had it running for about 15 seconds the. It died. I could hear it was going to die/bog out. What can I try from here?

Do you know how many turns out your high and low needles are?


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[Runt8401]

Turn your low and high jet all the way clockwise until lightly seated. Turn both 1 turn counter clockwise and start from there.

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[Chanakos]

They're about one turn out. The LA screw is about 8 turns out

 

[SteveSr]

They're about one turn out. The LA screw is about 8 turns out

This is likely too far out to be opening the throttle at idle.Turn the LA screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and then 2 additional turns. The LA screw just opens the throttle plate and doesn't affect the mixture. This should at least get it running.

You can also try the part throttle (cold start) position. Squeeze the trigger and put the saw in full choke but don't pull the rope. Move the lever up one notch (to remove the choke) to the part throttle position. This is also a good way to un-flood the engine.

 

[user 122190]

I just had it running for about 15 seconds the. It died. I could hear it was going to die/bog out. What can I try from here?

Sounds like you have it unflooded. Good.

Now you have to get the jets and idle set to proper base-line positions for the saw to stay running. Lots and lots of info in this thread and others. Good Luck!

 

[TRTermite]

Well I apologize if people think I was being misleading, simply trying to pass on my experience when a very similar thing happened to me with the same saw. The “it was running now it won’t even pop” is what made me think of the timing.


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I think of the Problems I have with a couple of 025 stihls. And learning to NOT use choke mode after they have been started for the day. I can understand over thinking things and apply other "OUT OF THE BOX" analogies. Comments like yours are what makes this forum so beneficial to saw owners..
After following this thread I am inclined to think with Old Stroke and if the carb was needing adjusted (tinkered with) why is the question and the answer may be the carb may have need of a Kit.
I had a moisture issue one time that made starting difficult, no kit necessary just clean and dry. Hard to Know what the OP has to deal with but finances are definitely tight for him and his family. Old mix or moisture in saw mix,
To the op / Chanakos Just be very sure of how each gasket and part are assembled as you disassemble the carb. It is so easy to invert something and without internet (UTube) things will get frustrating. I now read that you got it to sort of run. But I am going to post this any way. Good luck.

 

[Patrick1903]

I recall reading a string from awhile back where people tried and tried to help get a saw running. I think a site member was going to even travel some distance out of his way to take a look at the saw. Turned out the OP, dozens of replies/suggestions later, realized his gas was contaminated with water. Not saying that’s what’s going on here, but I generally dump the fuel into a glass bottle to inspect it as a first measure, when trying to help get something going. Then I replace it with my fuel. Fuel pickup/filter, carb inlet screen, inspection of diaphragms are easy checks as first measures. Best of luck. Carb rebuild gets my vote!

 

[Chanakos]

Hey guys
I got the saw running a few days ago and have been back to work with it. Thanks for all the help. What I ended up doing after making sure I got all the fuel out of the cylinder was cleaning around the inside of the sparkplug with a toothpick and cheesecloth. Down behind the threading. This I didn't think to do when drying/cleaning it before and it seemed to have a major impact.
Cheers and happy cutting from the balkans

 

[Patrick1903]

Hey guys
I got the saw running a few days ago and have been back to work with it. Thanks for all the help. What I ended up doing after making sure I got all the fuel out of the cylinder was cleaning around the inside of the sparkplug with a toothpick and cheesecloth. Down behind the threading. This I didn't think to do when drying/cleaning it before and it seemed to have a major impact.
Cheers and happy cutting from the balkans

Good luck. Hopefully you can order a spare good (NGK/Bosch) plug too.

 

[Old2stroke]

Thanks for letting us know how it worked out. Too often we give all kinds of different advice and we don't get response to know if any of it helped.

 

[Chanakos]

One more question. How do I remove the flywheel after unscrewing the nut? I don't want to damage it and need to get the crankshaft off the piston?

 

[user 122190]

One more question. How do I remove the flywheel after unscrewing the nut? I don't want to damage it and need to get the crankshaft off the piston?

Tap it lightly with a soft hammer. If you don't have a soft hammer, soften the blow with a piece of wood between the wheel and the hammer. And tap from different angles, and directly on the crankshaft. And again LIGHTLY!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

One more question. How do I remove the flywheel after unscrewing the nut? I don't want to damage it and need to get the crankshaft off the piston?

To remove the crankshaft off the piston- you do not need to remove the flywheel.
But if you want to remove the flywheel- there are several methods you can apply, but if you want no damage and the easiest way- spend a few minutes online and find the Stihl threaded flywheel removal tool- or a copy thereof and buy one. Simple tool that fits many Stihl flywheels and makes removal damage proof and dead simple.

 

[Chanakos]

how is the crankshaft removed then?
I've taken almost one every thing apart but can't split the case and pull the cylinder

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

how is the crankshaft removed then?
I've taken almost one every thing apart but can't split the case and pull the cylinder

What are you attempting to do? Replace the piston? If so, the cylinder comes up off the crankcases by the removal of the 4 bolts holding it down.
With the cylinder bolted down- there is not much hope of splitting the cases to remove the cylinder without damaging something beyond repair!

 

[Chanakos]

Piston and cylinder are finished but how doi release the piston from the crankshaft?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Piston and cylinder are finished but how doi release the piston from the crankshaft?

Once the cylinder is off you remove the retaining ring clip/clips from the sides of the piston and press out the piston wrist pin from the top of the conrod.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Piston and cylinder are finished but how doi release the piston from the crankshaft?

So, we started with a saw that would not tune, to a saw that would not run. Somehow or another the saw was deemed to have bad earthing at the spark plug and cleaning the pocket cured that to the point the saw ran again and now the piston and cylinder are fried and need removed to replace?
I put it to you, that you purchased a saw with a fairly major air leak that would not tune out and subsequently fried the top end.
If you cannot watch youtube because of a bad connection to internet, I suggest you at least download an IPL for the 044 and study it well so you are clean in your mind how to disassemble the saw.
I would also suggest it needs pressure and vacuum tested to ascertain what is leaking air in and what needs to be replaced.
Could be you do need to split the cases and remove the crank to do bearings and seals as well.