Yes, my saw. The good thing is it's on top of the tank and only leaked when turned on the sideIf this is for your own use, give the JB a try (and let us know how it worked out). I've not used that product but have used Seal-All (https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380011-Adhesive/dp/B0000AXYZG) with very good results and would expect JB Plastic Weld to be similarly successful.
One concern - the crack appears to be at a place that will be highly stressed if the bar gets pinched and the user tries to yank hard to get it loose. Not sure any repair goo will stand up to that.
But isn't that for metal tanks? I had considered drilling a hole at each end of the crack.i have used a product called quicksteel to repair cracks in the past on radiator tanks, sand with 60-80 grit for added grip using the deep scratches and drill both ends of the crack to stop growth then really clean/degrease using a brush etc in the crack and the sanded area then really dry push the putty into the crack like your trying to force it through. That stuff dries hard in a hour and is sandable/ drill and tappable in 24 hrs, working time is about 5 minutes, I would also use a tank sealer inside the tank
Thanks. I went and got some today.The epoxy putty i mentioned bonds to plastic just fine if prepped properly, that company makes more than version of the putty now. There is another thread on this site that mentions plastic welding, pvc glue and other ways to seal a plastic tank crack
The info said it cures in 4 to 6 hours. I left it setting next to the woodstove overnight.When it’s cured, use a screwdriver and try and remove some of that excess just to confirm it’s bonded. I have never had any luck with gluing / epoxying Stihls glass reenforced polymer.