Stihl 064 leak

[poleframer]

I have one good stock 064, and had another carcass sitting on the shelf for years I decided to get running. Ebayed the pieces, top end, covers, handlebar, etc. Also bought a vac/pressure tester that I should have owned years ago.
So, I'm doing a pressure test and loosing air fast. Made sure my intake and exaust seals were good and got to the crank seals. The flywheel side is good, it's the clutch side that has me stumped. I've never split the case on one of these so I'm not sure how the bearing and seal goes together, but here's what I see with the soap/water test.
I see a couple very small bubbles at the rubber ring at the crank, and will replace that seal. but the ring of steel around the crank seal, not the edge of the crank seal metal part, but outside of the ring around that is bubbling.
Is that the outer bearing race? If so the seal would fit into the bearing race, dont get it.
There is no play in the bearing that I can feel, and it dosnt spin, like the case is shot, do I need to replace the crank bearing{s) to fix this leak?
Thanks for any help.

 

[djg james]

I have one good stock 064, and had another carcass sitting on the shelf for years I decided to get running. ...... etc. Also bought a vac/pressure tester that I should have owned years ago........

What tester did you buy? I've got an 064 that I'm going to start working on soon and could use all the advice (pics) I can get. Good luck with yours.

 

[poleframer]

I bought this one, works well

 

[huskihl]

The fw side seal fits into a machined area of the case

 

[poleframer]

Flywheel side yes, not a problem. The clutch side has me confused, with the metal ring around the seal that I dont understand thats leaking.
Edit, Not the outside of the metal ring that's part of the seal, but the outside of the ring that that presses into. Sorry, but I've let my computer stuff lax and dont have a camera that works these days, nor a friggin cell phone either.

 

[grizz55chev]

Flywheel side yes, not a problem. The clutch side has me confused, with the metal ring around the seal that I dont understand thats leaking.
Edit, Not the outside of the metal ring that's part of the seal, but the outside of the ring that that presses into. Sorry, but I've let my computer stuff lax and dont have a camera that works these days, nor a friggin cell phone either.

Look up an IPL ( individual parts list ) for your model saw, should shed some light.

 

[huskihl]

Flywheel side yes, not a problem. The clutch side has me confused, with the metal ring around the seal that I dont understand thats leaking.
Edit, Not the outside of the metal ring that's part of the seal, but the outside of the ring that that presses into. Sorry, but I've let my computer stuff lax and dont have a camera that works these days, nor a friggin cell phone either.

The rubber seal has usually a gold or brass colored metal ring around it. That ring is part of the seal. On the clutch side, it presses into the outer race of the bearing. If it’s leaking between the seal and the bearing, you need a new seal with some sealant applied so the new one doesn’t leak. If it’s leaking between the bearing and the magnesium case, you need to split the case and either run a sealant around the bearing pocket or possibly replace the case half if the bearing has spun and there is no longer an interference fit

 

[Woodslasher]

Flywheel side yes, not a problem. The clutch side has me confused, with the metal ring around the seal that I dont understand thats leaking.
Edit, Not the outside of the metal ring that's part of the seal, but the outside of the ring that that presses into. Sorry, but I've let my computer stuff lax and dont have a camera that works these days, nor a friggin cell phone either.

Looking at pics of the crankcase, it looks like the seal presses into the bearing. If the bearing-to-case seam is leaking, I'd replace the bearing and lightly smear the race and case with either hi-temp rtv or some Loctite product.
EDIT: Looks like @huskihl posted while I was researching my post.

 

[L34]

You can also put some loktite or similar around the bearing edge and use you tester on vac to slowly suck it in.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I have loctite 609 for that purpose. On the 045 saw I’m rebuilding the outer bearing race forms the seal to the mag and the crank. I’m sure it would be ok without, but that’s a lot of extra work if it leaks. Therefore I’ll use 609 liberally.

 

[poleframer]

Thanks a lot for all the quick replies! Yea, it looks like its leaking around the bearing, on my other saws the seals covered the bearings.
I'll try applying loctite from the outside, and prepare for a re-bearing either way.
I'll order a set of bearings and split the case, I have a case gasket and crank seals, any suggestions of bearing sources? I expect oem is probably more than I'd like to spend, as usual.
Thanks again.

 

[huskihl]

I’d use a Nachi bearing on the fw side. $6 on eBay.
Oem only on the clutch side. Seems like it’s $30 or so at the dealer

 

[poleframer]

Cool beans, she's a runner. The loctite fix worked, sort of surprising the the seal wasnt leaking at all, but the bearing seat was, the bearing seems tight. Did as suggested, applied lictite red (what I had) under vacume, let it set a bit, and hardly a bubble at 10psi.
I suppose I'll still get a set of bearings, and keep an eye on both the 064's and be ready if and when I need to do that job.
Thanks for the help guys, later.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Pioneerguy600 is a big advocate of loctite 290 and I got some because of his advice for an earlier issue I had. It’s a wicking loctite and would have been perfect for your issue with everything being assembled in this case.