TYoungKY
New Member
I recently bought a "complete repair kit" Stihl 070 from the Farmer Tec/Huztl website with 090 piston/cylinder kit and put it together using the1chainsawguy's You Tube series. It was extremely easy to do, I actually built it in my kitchen with no vice or anything at my disposal just basic tools (my shop doesn't have internet to follow along with You Tube videos).
Anyway on to the problem. The first time I cranked the saw it ran great right off the bat, I was ecstatic, couldn't believe it. My joy was short-lived however because when I killed the saw the nut that holds the fan/flywheel on the crankshaft spun off, letting the fan and flywheel slide down the crank shaft and into my pull rope. Luckily the woodruff key didn't deform or sheer so I could put the flywheel back on along with the fan with no major visible issues. This is where I made my mistake, in order to ensure this didn't happen again I decided to tighten the crank nut with my 1/4" Dewalt impact driver ( I also went to the other side and did the same to the left handed nut on the clutch side).
Upon reassembly I then attempted to crank the saw and found that when I pulled the starter rope the clutch/chain- sprocket/chain all try to turn together. Needless to say it made an already high compression/hard to pull saw 10x harder to start when your turning the whole chain with every pull (bar is 5ft long, 172 link chain going to be milling huge oak for fun). Believe it or not it still cranks if you pull hard enough, but the chain turns like crazy the whole time even on idle which is clearly not the right thing for it to be doing.
Obviously, the answer is to pull the clutch/chain sprocket off and re-torque using a piston stop and torque wrench to the 32/33 ft lbs recommended by Stihl. But the question is how in heck to do this? I have a 3 pronged gear puller which I've attempted to use but the chain sprocket is rounded on the edges so it doesn't grip well. Also what's making it even worse is this little tapered adapter sleeve that wedges between the inside of the clutch and outside of the crank, when you pull on the clutch it just makes it tighter on this sleeve. I've tried heating, penetrating fluid, but not sure what to try next. I've seen people recommend re-greasing chain sprocket bearing every 3 months of use (which involves pulling it off) so I know some people do this task regularly but I can't find a single video showing how.
TL/DR: I over-tightened crank nut on clutch side causing clutch and chain sprocket to be fused together so the chain tries to turn at all times such as during cranking/at idle and now I can't get it off.
PS: I know chain is loose and spark plug isn't hooked up in pic, that was right after I got done assembling saw and putting bar on.
Anyway on to the problem. The first time I cranked the saw it ran great right off the bat, I was ecstatic, couldn't believe it. My joy was short-lived however because when I killed the saw the nut that holds the fan/flywheel on the crankshaft spun off, letting the fan and flywheel slide down the crank shaft and into my pull rope. Luckily the woodruff key didn't deform or sheer so I could put the flywheel back on along with the fan with no major visible issues. This is where I made my mistake, in order to ensure this didn't happen again I decided to tighten the crank nut with my 1/4" Dewalt impact driver ( I also went to the other side and did the same to the left handed nut on the clutch side).
Upon reassembly I then attempted to crank the saw and found that when I pulled the starter rope the clutch/chain- sprocket/chain all try to turn together. Needless to say it made an already high compression/hard to pull saw 10x harder to start when your turning the whole chain with every pull (bar is 5ft long, 172 link chain going to be milling huge oak for fun). Believe it or not it still cranks if you pull hard enough, but the chain turns like crazy the whole time even on idle which is clearly not the right thing for it to be doing.
Obviously, the answer is to pull the clutch/chain sprocket off and re-torque using a piston stop and torque wrench to the 32/33 ft lbs recommended by Stihl. But the question is how in heck to do this? I have a 3 pronged gear puller which I've attempted to use but the chain sprocket is rounded on the edges so it doesn't grip well. Also what's making it even worse is this little tapered adapter sleeve that wedges between the inside of the clutch and outside of the crank, when you pull on the clutch it just makes it tighter on this sleeve. I've tried heating, penetrating fluid, but not sure what to try next. I've seen people recommend re-greasing chain sprocket bearing every 3 months of use (which involves pulling it off) so I know some people do this task regularly but I can't find a single video showing how.
TL/DR: I over-tightened crank nut on clutch side causing clutch and chain sprocket to be fused together so the chain tries to turn at all times such as during cranking/at idle and now I can't get it off.
PS: I know chain is loose and spark plug isn't hooked up in pic, that was right after I got done assembling saw and putting bar on.